2017 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Sous Eguisons, Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard
White | Ready, but will improve | Code: 53713 | 2017 | France > Burgundy > Cote de Beaune > Hautes-Cotes-de Beaune | Chardonnay | Medium Bodied, Dry | 12.5 % alcohol
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The Grape
Chardonnay is the "Big Daddy" of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world. It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Unfortunately, the cool location of this parcel above St Aubin meant that at least half the crop was lost to frost this year. What remains is, however, excellent: energetic and crisp, but with extra concentration which gives more grip and density than is typical. Around half the wine is raised in barrel, adding some complexity and apricot-skin texture. Drink 2019-2024.
After the catastrophically small vintage last year, Caroline is much happier with the good but in no sense excessive crop of 2017. Indeed, her organic viticulture methods and old-vine holdings mean that yields are a long way below the permitted maximum. Caroline is pleased with the ripe fruit profile of the wines, highlighting the velour, density and volume as key attributes, but taking care to explain that they are not heavy. These are exciting wines, which will be hedonistic in youth but the abundance of dry extract points to huge ageing potential.