Critics reviews
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - 31/05/2018
About this WINE
Chateau Doisy Daene
Château Doisy-Daëne is a Barsac estate that produces top-class, sweet Bordeaux white wines that are characterised by their finesse and richness.
The property takes the second part of its name from an English gentleman who bought it when the original Doisy estate was split up in the 19th century. The 18.2 hectares of vineyards underwent extensive replanting in the 1950s and ‘60s, now planted to 86 percent Sémillon and 14% Sauvignon Blanc, at a density of over 7,000 plants per hectare.
In the year 2000 Denis Dubourdieu took over the estate. A legendary figure in Bordeaux wine circles, Denis was best known for pioneering the region’s dry white wines, improving their quality and reputation. Sadly, after being awarded the La Légion d'Honneur by the French government, he passed away in 2016. His two sons, Jean-Jacques and Fabrice have taken over the running of the family’s estates.
The estate produces three wines: a dry white, a classic sweet wine and a special cuvée, L’Extravagant, which is only made in outstanding vintages. It is the estate’s sweet wines which receives most global acclaim; quintessential Barsac with the emphasis on finesse, poise and elegance, rather than power and force.
Classified as a Sauternes 2ème Cru Classé, Ch. Doisy Daëne’s wines can age gracefully for up to 20 years.
Barsac
Barsac is one of the communes of the Sauternes appellation (along with Bommes, Fargues, Preignac and Sauternes itself). With marginally flatter land and soils of red sand and light gravels, the commune adjoins the northern boundary of the commune of Sauternes, separated by the Ciron River, whose cold waters are so instrumental in producing the region's necessary autumn fogs.
There are just over 800 hectares under vine, producing nearly two million bottles in an average year. The châteaux can choose to sell their wine under either the Sauternes or the Barsac appellation, but stylistically the wines are arguably a little lighter in style than those of Sauternes.
The leading producers are Châteaux Climens and Coutet, with Châteaux Nairac, Doisy-Daëne and Doisy-Vedrines making good value, attractive wines.
Sémillon
The main grape for Sauternes and particularly successfully grown in Australia's Hunter Valley. Hunter Valley Sémillon is one of Australia’s iconic and unique wines, totally unlike any wine produced elsewhere in the world from the same grape variety.
In youth the wines are quite citrusy and fresh, but are generally perceived to gain hugely in complexity as they age and are deemed to be best drunk when at least 5 years old, frequently lasting for 10 or more years. Unusually for Australia, the alcohol levels rarely exceed 11.5%.
In Bordeaux it is the most widely planted white grape and is blended with Sauvignon Blanc to produce the great long-lived dry whites of Graves as well as the great sweet wines of Sauternes. It is high in alcohol and extract and relatively low in aroma and acidity. Its thin skin makes it very susceptible to botrytis which is prerequisite for the making of Sauternes. It responds well to oak ageing and, while having a lightly lemony aroma when young develops lanolin flavours which some describe as "waxy", as well as a rich, creamy, intense, texture and a deep golden colour.
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Description
The 1998 Doisy Dane is medium gold in color. Wowthis is a real honey-nut bomb on the nose with gorgeous orange marmalade and preserved apricot notes in the background plus a kick of ginger. Big, rich, full and powerful in the mouth, it's sporting a lot of evolution, but it still has loads to give.
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - 31/05/2018
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