2017 Pinot Noir, Fronholz, Domaine André Ostertag, Alsace

Domaine Andre Ostertag

Today one of Alsace’s most famous and respected names, André Ostertag could hardly be called a run-of-the-mill Alsace winemaker. He first made a name for himself in 1983, when his Muenchberg Pinot Gris was denied the honour of being labelled as such – having dared to age it in oak, contrary to local tradition. Ever since then, the estate has been pushing the appellation’s boundaries, constantly experimenting and innovating to coax the ultimate expression of terroir from each of its sites.

Ostertags first put down their winemaking roots in Alsace with three hectares in 1966, with André the second generation to make the wines. He studied in Beaune where he struck up a long and lasting friendship with Dominique Lafon of Meursault before returning to Epfig.

The estate has been farmed biodynamically since 1997, with a focus on low yields and ensuring maximum ripeness from every plot. While the estate’s wines tend to have a higher-than-average level of alcohol, it is always impeccably integrated and almost unnoticeable.

As of the 2017 vintage, André has stepped aside – handing the winemaking reins over to his son Arthur. Arthur has travelled the world to learn his trade and worked with his father for several vintages before stepping up to the plate.

The estate’s Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir is aged in oak barrels, in the style of Burgundy, and on their lees. The Sylvaner, Muscat, Gewurztraminer, and all the Rieslings are aged in 100% stainless steel. All the wines are remarkable and amazingly age-worthy.

Pinot Noir AOC Alsace

While Alsace is more renowned for its white wines, the Pinot Noir AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) represents the region’s efforts in producing quality red wines.

The Pinot Noir grape is notoriously sensitive and challenging to cultivate, but Alsace’s unique climate and terroir offer favourable conditions for its successful growth. The region’s continental climate, with warm summers, sunny days, cool nights, and well-drained soils, provides an excellent environment for Pinot Noir grapes’ slow and steady ripening. These factors contribute to developing rich and aromatic flavours in the wines.

In Alsace, winemakers practice traditional and modern techniques to craft Pinot Noir wines that showcase the grape’s elegance and finesse. The grapes are usually hand-harvested to ensure the selection of only the highest-quality fruit. Many winemakers opt for minimal intervention during the winemaking process to preserve the grape’s natural characteristics.

The Pinot Noir wines typically exhibit a vibrant ruby colour, accompanied by enticing aromas of red berries, cherries, and sometimes floral notes. On the palate, these wines usually display a delicate balance of fruitiness, acidity, and refined tannins, making them versatile and food-friendly.

While the Pinot Noir AOC Alsace wines may not be as well-known as their white counterparts, they offer a delightful and unique expression of this grape variety, capturing the essence of Alsace’s distinctive terroir and winemaking expertise. Whether enjoyed on their own or paired with a variety of dishes, these Alsace Pinot Noirs have gained recognition for their quality and have become a fascinating addition to the diverse wine offerings of the region.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.