2013 Occultum Lapidem, Domaine de Bila-Haut, Chapoutier, Rhône
Critics reviews
Jeb Dunnuck - 30/04/2015
About this WINE
Domaine de Bila-Haut
Cotes du Roussillon
The putative partnership of Languedoc and Roussillon has been one of convenience and geographical contiguity rather than any stylistic or cultural synergy. Roussillon lies at the southern edge of Mediterranean France, its climate informed by the Pyrenees and its outlook aimed towards Catalonia. Perhaps a not entirely unrelated phenomenon lies in the fact that it has not been especially well-served by the French Appellation Contrôlée system with Collioure being the only table wine designation, with Côtes du Roussillon – established as late as 1979 – serving as a rather vague umbrella for everything else.
Where the wines were once rustic and often oxidised, they are now rich and infinitely interesting. The famous fortified styles of Banyuls, Maury and Rivesaltes certainly show off the wonders of Grenache and Muscat, yet one should not forget the table wines: whites from altitude with extraordinary minerality and fresh acidity, and reds which are often reminiscent of their lofty cousins over the border in Priorat.
Other Varieties
There are over 200 different grape varieties used in modern wine making (from a total of over 1000). Most lesser known blends and varieties are traditional to specific parts of the world.
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Description
Slightly more ripe, voluptuous and textured than the more Syrah-dominated lEsquerda, the translucent purple-colored 2013 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France Occultum Lapidem comes from the schist soils around the village of Latour de France. A blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Carignan that was harvest on September 15 and aged all in concrete tanks, its a fabulous wine that offers elegant notes of red and black raspberries, roasted herbs, pepper, melted licorice and asphalt. These flow to a medium to full-bodied 2013 that has a full, layered mid-palate, beautiful fruit, fine tannin and a classically focused, dry finish. It continues to freshen up in the glass, has integrated acidity and lots of class. Buy this brilliant wine by the case and drink it over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - 30/04/2015
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