2017 Barbera d'Alba, Luciano Sandrone, Piedmont, Italy

Luciano Sandrone

Today, Sandrone is one of Barolo’s most admired names, but this producer came from humble beginnings. The son of the local carpenter, Luciano Sandrone always dreamed of owning his own vineyard and making his own wine. He achieved his lifelong ambition in 1978, buying a small plot in Cannubi Boschis. This now-legendary vineyard proved pivotal in securing his family’s fortunes; Luciano’s wines were among the first in the region to garner worldwide acclaim. Driven by Luciano’s clarity of vision, the estate has since expanded to over 20 hectares. His original vineyard, now in front of the family’s home and winery, produces the fruit that goes into their Aleste Barolo. Since the early ’90s, Luciano has worked alongside his children Luca and Barbara, and increasingly his grandchildren Alessia and Stefano. 

Barbara Sandrone beams with pride for ’18, which draws similarities to the great ’08 and ’12 vintages. It was a challenging growing year in the vineyards, but the end of the growing season was calm, and the resulting wines are classical and fine. The suppleness of the vintage mutes some of the firm intensity we know from Sandrone, but the wines do not suffer from it. Instead, they feel alive and open, coiled with that serious, polished edge we know and admire from this resplendent family cantina. 

Barbera d'Alba

Barbera d’Alba is a red wine made from the Barbera grape variety in the Alba region of Piedmont, Italy. It is one of the most well-known and widely produced Barbera wines in the Piedmont region and holds the prestigious Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) designation.

The grape is a high-yielding variety known for its rich colour, high acidity, and low tannins. These characteristics make Barbera wines generally approachable and food-friendly, often described as lively, vibrant, and easy to drink.

The wines typically showcase red and black fruit flavours, such as cherry, raspberry, and blackberry, with some expressions exhibiting notes of plum and blueberry. The wines often have a pleasing acidity that gives them a refreshing and tangy quality. In some cases, subtle hints of spice, earthiness, and floral aromas may add to the wine’s complexity.

The oak ageing process is typical for many Barbera d’Alba wines, which can impart additional layers of flavour and texture, complementing the grape’s natural characteristics. However, some producers opt for stainless steel or neutral oak ageing to preserve the wine’s primary fruit flavours and freshness.

Barbera d’Alba is versatile when it comes to food pairings. Its bright acidity and medium body make it a fantastic match for various dishes. It pairs excellently with Italian cuisine, such as pasta dishes, risotto, pizza, and roasted meats. The wine’s acidity also allows it to pair well with more decadent and fatty foods, making it an excellent choice for savoury dishes.

While Barbera d’Alba is often overshadowed by the more renowned Barolo and Barbaresco wines of the Piedmont region, it remains a beloved and cherished wine among locals and enthusiasts. Its combination of approachability, versatility, and excellent value makes it an appealing choice for everyday enjoyment and a delightful introduction to the wines of Piedmont.

Barbera

Barbera is planted extensively in Piedmont and south-west Lombardy and accounts for over 50% of the wine produced in the region. The majority is sold simply as Barbera del Piemonte, but the best wines are the DOCs, Barbera d'Alba and Barbera d'Asti. It ripens late (after Dolcetto but before Nebbiolo).

The wines are usually ruby red in colour with notably low levels of tannins. They have a pronounced acidity that can be accentuated by overproduction. Barbera wines range from light, tart mouthwashers through to powerful, intensely flavoured wines that require extended cellaring.