2017 Santenay Blanc, Les Hâtes, Vincent & Sophie Morey, Burgundy

Vincent & Sophie Morey

Vincent, who physically resembles his father Bernard, has taken over the latter’s cellar near the Abbaye de Morgeot. He is married to Sophie, from Santenay, though she is the other principal owner with the Moreys of Chassagne premier cru Les Embrazées: did they meet while working in those vines?

The combined domaine is now 20 hectares in total, although some wines are still sold off in bulk. Vincent Morey is keen on lees-stirring, though having noted that it takes about two weeks for the suspended lees to fall clear, he now does his bâtonnage once a fortnight instead of every week, as his father used to do.

The wines of both père and fils have an engaging plumpness. The barrel regime is relatively standard across the cellar: 50 per cent new wood for the red premiers crus, while typically the whites receive 40 per cent each new and one-year-old wood, with the balance made up by two-year-old barrels. Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Embrazées is the domaine's  flagship premier cru, since Vincent and Sophie’s marriage brought the two largest holdings together. It is usually a full, rich, ageworthy example with an intense mineral core. 
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

After nearly three decades living and breathing the region’s wine, Jasper Morris MW, BBR Burgundy Buyer, has gathered all his knowledge and experience together in a comprehensive handbook, Inside Burgundy, available from our BB&R Press.

Santenay

Santenay, situated in the southern part of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy, France, is known for producing some of the world’s most prestigious and sought-after wines. The terroir of Santenay is diverse, featuring limestone and clay soils, which play a crucial role in shaping the unique character and flavours of the wines.

The region’s winemaking heritage dates back centuries, with a deep-rooted tradition of crafting exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. The village’s vineyards benefit from a favourable microclimate that promotes grape ripening while retaining freshness and balance in the wines.

The red wines often exhibit a harmonious blend of red fruit flavours, such as cherry and raspberry, and subtle earthy and spice undertones. The tannins in these wines are typically refined and well-integrated, contributing to their elegance and age-worthiness.

On the other hand, Santenay’s white wines are characterised by their bright acidity, offering refreshing citrus and orchard fruit notes with a hint of minerality.

Winemakers in Santenay take pride in following a traditional and artisanal approach to winemaking, emphasising the importance of respecting the land and expressing the unique terroir in each bottle. They aim to capture the essence of the vineyards and the nuances of the grape varieties, resulting in authentic wines that reflect their origin.

Santenay’s picturesque landscapes and dedication to producing high-quality wines attract wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs worldwide. It is a region where history, tradition, and innovation intersect, making it a compelling destination for anyone seeking to explore Burgundy’s exceptional wines and winemaking culture.

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.

Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.

Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.