Critics reviews
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - 30/06/2011
About this WINE
Upper Goulburn
The Upper Goulburn wine region in Victoria stretches from Tallarook to Mansfield and Marysville to Merton. It is unified by its main river, the Goulburn River, and its topography, which is generally hilly rising to Mt Buller and the Great Dividing Range in the east.
Upper Goulburn is classed as a super-premium wine-producing area. Yields are low, and the soil is rich in gravel and minerals. The cool climate renders vibrant, fresh wines with elevation being the key determinant of style.
White grapes thrive in the region: crisp, tangy, herbal Sauvignon Blanc, elegant, aromatic Riesling, Pinot Gris and spicy Gewurztraminer. Chardonnay is typically refined, and elegant in European style .
Red wine styles vary from perfumed and elegant to full bodied. The Merlots have plenty of flesh and fruit, while Cabernets are polished and well-defined in flavour.
Along with the superb wines the area is noted for stunning scenery. The Upper Goulburn is overflowing with natural assets - beautiful mountains for skiing in winter and bushwalking in summer, waterfalls, an extensive river system, national parks and nature trails.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
As usual, Pat Carmody at Craiglee has fashioned a supremely elegant Chardonnay with more than a hint of Burgundian elegnce and restraint. The grapes are barrel-fermented and enjoy significant lees contact, which imparts aromas of cashew nut, with hints of melon and pineapple.
However, the blocking of ther malolactic fermentation means that the wine retains a firm, refreshing acidity and helps it to age gracefully over a number of years. Excellent with rich fish dishes but could also work well with light poultry dishes. 2009 proved a challenging year for winemakers as drought created severe problems. The cool climate sites fared best, particularly Victoria, such as Sunbury, home to Craiglee. The Chardonnay was barrel-fermented but was not allowed to undergo malocatic fermentation.
This helps to preserve the inherent acidity in the wine and maintains freshness and vitality. The bouquet displays notes of exotic fruit such as pineapple and melon, with hints of nuts, too. On the palate extended lees contact imbues the wine with great intensity, richness and a pleasing minerality, and despite its Australian origins there is a real sense of restraint and subtlety, reminiscent of White Burgundy in a ripe vintage. Ready now but will improve for a couple of years of further ageing.
(Katie Cooper, Wince Club Manager)
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