Critics reviews
Tim Atkin - The Observer - 19-Sept-2009
About this WINE
Trevisiol L. e Figli
The Trevisiol family were among the first prosecco winemakers, with Luigi and his son Paolo continuing to make traditional sparkling wine from 25 hectares of prime Valdobbiadene vineyards close to the Alte-Adige border.
Paolo capitalises on the region's altitude, which at 300m extends the growing season or hang time to deliver excellent flavours, whilst ageing the wines for 6-9 months in oak, on their lees adds further complexity.
Prosecco
Prosecco is officially Italy’s favourite sparkling wine. Grown among the spettacolo ‘pre-Alpi’ (Alpine foothills) that dominate the Venetian skyline from Treviso to the Austrian border and on the flats as far as Venezia, it’s a light frothy spumante that Italians drink anytime, anywhere.
And since being awarded the DOCGarantita status last year (the highest political wine award in the land!) it’s become fashionable too; the new Pinot Grigio if you like! Significantly they’ve started differentiating between the different grapes that go into the wine.
Prosecco is a wine style, at whose heart should be the Glera grape, along with healthy doses of Chardonnay, probably Trebbiano and who knows what else from down south… It’s made in the spumante industry’s equivalent of the ‘continuous still’ process whereby still wine has sugar added to it so triggering the second, bubbly ferment in tank; the Charmat method using zeppelin-shaped (and sized) stainless steel tanks and bottled to order. This facile style of spumante was born with the advent of the autoclave tank, coming during the 1970s as the industry sought a cheap source of endless fizz.
Importantly it all but rendered extinct the traditional ‘colfondo’ style frizzante (less gas, more flavour) that came from the wine’s second ferment taking place in bottle, having had grape must (not sugar) added. This latter more ‘serious’ style of Prosecco is now gently fizzing again among small artisan producers keen to reveal the true face of their fine terroir; not dissimilar to what’s happened in Champagne in fact, with the emergence of ‘growers Champagnes’.
One such Prosecco producer is Belecasel. Based at Caerano san Marco, near Treviso, the small 10 hectare (120,000 bottles/year) family estate lies in a fiercely protected subzone of calcareous clay hills called Asolo.
Prosecco
Prosecco is Italy's most famous sparkling wine produced mainly in the wine appellations of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene in the region of Veneto which are the only DOC- level zones for ‘Prosecco’.
Prosecco is also the name of the grape that forms the basis of the eponymous sparkling wine and many of the best examples contain 100% Prosecco, although Verdiso, Perera and Bianchetta grape varieties which are considered to be of lesser stature, can be used up to a maximum of 15% .
Prosecco grape is distinguished by its aromatics of lemon and green apples, and its subtle flavours of white peaches, freshly picked flowers and notes of yeastiness. The base wine is made using the Charmat method.
Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze DOC encompasses the steepest hills in the Prosecco di Valdobbiadene district which deliver the most intense, complex styles of Prosecco sparkling wine.
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Description
Based in the heart of the historic Prosecco region of Valdobbiadene, the Trevisiol family has been producing sparkling wines from the native Glera grape since 1898. This is a classic, Extra Dry style using fruit from 50-year-old vines grown on steep slopes in Valdobbiadene. A short fermentation time and minimal aging allow the fruit quality to shine through, delivering a wonderfully lively and vibrant wine full of fresh pear and blossoms. It’s a brilliantly moreish apéritif for any occasion.
Matt Smith, Senior Buyer (winter 2019)
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