Red, For laying down

2005 Clos St. Denis, Grand Cru, Domaine Bertagna

2005 Clos St. Denis, Grand Cru, Domaine Bertagna

Red | For laying down | Domaine Bertagna | Code:  939097 | 2005 | France > Burgundy > Cote de Nuits > Morey-Saint-Denis | Pinot Noir | Full Bodied, Dry | 13.5 % alcohol

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Scores and Reviews

BURGHOUND

90-93/100

JANCIS

18/20

WA

89-91/100

BURGHOUND - Moderate wood highlights the ripe and spicy crushed red berry and plum aromas that give way to delicious, forward and mouth coating flavors that possess excellent volume and plenty of power on the enduring finish. This is perhaps not quite as elegant as it usually is though it may gain in precision with a few more months in cask.
Allen Meadows, Burghound, 01 Jan 2007

JANCIS - Much more reticent on the nose than the Clos de la Perrière. Very fine boned and bone dry at the same time. Lovely texture but we will have to wait to discern much flavour. Very gentle hand.
Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com, 17 Jan 2007

WA - From their morsel of this great but small site, Bertagna’s 2005 Clos St.-Denis displays an overtly fruity cherry and black raspberry nose, lightly-jellied fruit presentation on the palate, and charred meat and wet stone undertones that nicely complement the wine’s sweet finishing fruit. Hopefully, this will take on more refinement, delineation and complexity with time.
David Schildknecht - Wine Advocate - Apr 2007

The Producer

Domaine Bertagna

Domaine Bertagna

Domaine Bertagna was originally put together by Monsieur Bertagna in the 1950s before he sold to the Reh family in 1982. Eva Reh-Siddle has been in charge since 1988 with various winemakers at the helm, notably Roland Masse, now at the Hospices de Beaune, and Claire Forrestier who was responsible for vintages from 1999 to 2005. Eva's sister Annegret also runs the world-famous Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt estate in the Mosel.
 
The domaine has impressive holdings in the commune of Vougeot, allied to several grands crus from other communes and some volume in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. All these are processed in an efficient, high tech cuvérie before élévage in the substantial underground cellars.

Jasper Morris MW author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.

The Grape

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

The Region

Morey-Saint-Denis

Morey-Saint-Denis

Morey is sometimes ignored between its two famous neighbours, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, but its wines are of equal class, combining elegance and structure. Morey-St Denis, being that little bit less famous, can often provide excellent value.

The four main Grand Cru vineyards continue in a line from those of Gevrey-Chambertin, with Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche the most widely available. Clos des Lambrays (almost) and Clos de Tart (entirely) are monopolies of the domains which bear the same names.

Domaine Dujac and Domaine Ponsot also make rare white wines in Morey-St Denis.

  • 64 hectares of village Morey-St Denis
  • 33 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les Charmes, Les Millandes, Clos de la Bussière, Les Monts Luisants
  • 40 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard. Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and a tiny part of Bonnes Mares
  • Recommended Producers: Dujac, Ponsot, Clos de Tart, Domaine des Lambrays

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