
2006 Pinot Gris, Clos Windsbuhl, Domaine Zind Humbrecht

White | Ready, but will keep | Domaine Zind Humbrecht | Code: 943378 | 2006 | France > Alsace > AOC Alsace > Pinot Gris AOC Alsace | Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio | Full Bodied, Medium | 13.5 % alcohol
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Scores and Reviews
BBR 18/20 |
The Wine Advocate 91/100 |
The Producer
The wines of Olivier Humbrecht M.W. need little introduction, possessing great depth, exactitude as well as generosity…like the man himself.
The Humbrecht family viticultural roots can be traced back to The Thirty Years War of 1620. Today they own forty hectares across five villages in the Haut-Rhin, the southern half of the picturesque vineyards overlapping the Vosges foothills, treasured for its idyllic climate, tapestry of terroirs as much for its half-timbered houses.
The domaine has vines in 4 Grands Crus - Rangen (Thann) 5.5 ha, Brand (Turckheim) 2.4 ha, Hengst (Wintzenheim) 1.4 ha, Goldert (Gueberschwihr) 0.9 ha as well as Single Vineyards; Rotenberg (Wintzenheim) 1.8 ha, Clos Häuserer (Wintzenheim) 1.2 ha, Herrenweg (Turkheim) 11.5 ha, Clos Jebsal (Turkheim) 1.3 ha, Heimbourg (Turkheim) 4 ha and Clos Windsbuhl (Hunawihr) 5.2 ha.
Olivier has arguably overseen the most notable improvements in the estate’s illustrious history: a new cellar in 1992 while retaining the traditional ‘foudre’ oval barrels; initiating biodynamic practices in 1997 (certified in 2002); and the buying of a horse in 2006 to plough the vineyards!
The Grape
A first class grape variety grown in Alsace, where it is known as Tokay Pinot Gris, and in Italy, where it is called Pinot Grigio. In Alsace it is best suited to the deep, clay rich soils found in the north of the region where it produces richly honeyed, dry whites as well as superb sweet late harvest wines. At its best it combines the heady perfume and rich aroma of Gewürztraminer with the acidity one associates with Riesling. It ages very well, developing rich buttery characteristics.
In Northern Italy Pinot Grigio produces many thin undistinguished dry whites. However it comes into its own in Friuli-Venezia and the Alto Adige, where leading producers such as Alvaro Pecorari of Lis Neris produce marvellously rounded, elegant, and mineral laden examples. Pinot Gris is now grown with notable success in Oregon in the USA and in New Zealand.
As with other wines originating from the single Clos Windsbuhl vineyard (one that famously missed out on 'Grand Cru' status due to not being submitted!), one's struck by the cool minerally energy, a wine that speaks more of the soil than the fruit per se. The 10 month long ferment tailed off leaving an off-dry style with 49 grams of residual, yet the palate is fantastically focused, charged with bristling electricity, leaving an oh! so cleansing pear purity. Needs time, till 2014 to see its best. Great with creamy veal or white meat platters.
(David Berry Green )