China
China may not be the first country that comes to mind when you think about wine consumption or production but this is changing fast, along with so much else in China. Already the country has half a million hectares under vine (three times as much as Australia, for example) and sits sixth in the international league table of wine production.
Unsurprisingly there is an enormous variety of climates and soils; most remarkable is the Xinjiang region, where vineyards are grown around the Turfan Depression, about 500 feet below sea level. Temperatures range from to -40C in winter to +50C in summer, with irrigation from underground deposits of melt water from the Tianshan mountains. But no classic grape varieties here.
Shandong Province is the largest producing region, on approximately the same latitude as California, 300km south of Beijing. Also notable is the startlingly remote Liaoning wine region, whose eastern border adjoins North Korea. Here the progressive Changyu Wine Company, China’s largest wine producer, identified conditions highly suitable for the production of ice wine, and began planting 5,000 hectares in 2001.
China’s other wine producing regions, which include the alluring names of Ancient Yellow River Area and Helan Mountains, spread from the coast on the approximate European vineyard latitudes until they meet Xinjiang (above), towards the border with Mongolia, although there is also the Yunnan region, well to the south of the country, towards Burma. Unsurprisingly this climate is warm and traditionally has been table grape territory but China’s growing thirst for red wines has encouraged wine production here as well.
The most important change to come will be the supplanting of the indigenous Long Yan (Dragon’s Eye) and Ju Feng Noir with classic grape varieties. External investors, and recently there have been several big players, have had to cope with the former until now, and were unable to produce much beyond simple fare. As and when Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and their friends get a real hold, quality will improve significantly.
Whilst it seems extraordinary to be writing some of these names in connection with wine, have no doubt that the Chinese interest in wine is growing and with that will come a much greater focus on its domestic production. China has the will and resource to become a very important player.
Prices:
H/Bottle
£29.00
Because the fruit for ice wine is frozen, but healthy and not botrytised, the attack is always very fresh and pure, with a very positive level of acidity. Here the profile is more of citrus and tropical fruits, blossom and honey. Creamy desserts work well, such as crème brûlée, or try simply with tropical fruits like pineapple or mango.
H/Bottle
£29.00
H/Bottle 6 x 37.5cl 13cs
This is the second wine of Château Changyu Moser XV, one of China’s most ambitious wine ventures. The château is located in Ningxia, south west of Beijing, a region Lenz Moser enthusiastically compares to Mendoza in Argentina. Moser, of the distinguished Austrian wine family, has worked as a consultant for the Changyu Pioneer Wine Company since 2005.
With its rigid structure and restrained fruit, this Cabernet calls to mind the Old World rather than the New. As such, it should satisfy both the traditionalist and the neophile in every wine drinker.
Bottle
£29.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 8cs
Mark Pardoe - Wine Director
The Changyu Golden Ice Wine Valley is situated in the far north-east of China, in the Liaoning Province, close to the borders of North Korea and Russia. No, honestly. In particular it is the area around Huanlong Lake that has attracted the company’s attention; at an altitude of 380m and with the temperature moderated by that large body of water.
The grapes ripen well in summer but when the winter temperature drops to -8C (as required for ice wine production), this can be held naturally for 24 hours. The vineyards have been developed in partnership with Aurora, a Canadian wine company, themselves no strangers to ice wine. Initially the Vidal grape variety has been planted, a hybrid cross of Ugni Blanc and Seibel, chosen for its hardiness. It would be interesting to see how Riesling would fare. This is the largest, commercial, regular production of ice wine in the world.
H/Bottle
£35.00
H/Bottle
£37.50
H/Bottle 6 x 37.5cl 11cs
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£59.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 5cs
Gary Owen - Private Account Manager
Bottle 6 x 75cl 3cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Katherine Dart MW, Wine Buyer