Bougros

This is dense with a rich coating of flesh on the linear structure, complemented by a touch of orange blossom. Amazing energy underpins the fruit, all rounded off by a fabulously long finish.

From just over two hectares planted on the steep slope, facing south-southeast, this is much more restrained than a classic Bougros. There is great persistence and finesse, an undercurrent of power too, but it’s restrained. This is gorgeous, with a pleasing youthful bitterness on the finish. Drink 2024-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This leading Chablis domaine was developed by the eponymous William Fèvre between 1957 and his retirement in 1998 when he sold to the Champagne House Joseph Henriot. Since then the wines have been made by the talented Didier Séguier who had previously been with the Bouchard team in Beaune. The domaine wines include 12 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards and no less than 16 hectares of Grands Crus. Everything is harvested by hand. The Premier Cru wines are vinified in 30 to 50 percent oak, the Grands Crus 50 to 70 percent, all in oneyear-old barrels from Bouchard. Didier Séguier described 2016 as a complicated vintage which was saved by a warm, dry summer and a cool northerly wind just before harvest, allowing the grapes to ripen without achieving high sugar levels. The resultant small grapes have given concentrated wines of great finesse. He feels this is a vintage which will produce wines of good early approachability, while also being interesting to serious Chablis lovers who will appreciate the mineral backbone. Keen to preserve this minerality, Dider has not used any new oak this year.

The vines here are planted in the best part of Bougros, on the steep, south-facing slope overlooking the river Serein. The nose is rich and sunny, the palate rounded with a fine, suave, cashmere texture that marks this out as a wine of great class. Drink 2024-2035.

Didier has mixed emotions about the 2017 vintage; the quality is excellent, but thanks to the frost at the end of April, volumes are low, with their substantial holdings on the rive droite (right bank) particularly suffering. Up to 60 percent of the crop was lost in the Grands Crus, particularly Les Clos. Didier explained that, in comparison to 2016, the season post-frost was relatively simple, with warm, dry conditions and rain falling when required. He describes 2017 as a very classic vintage which offers acidity, freshness and tension.

The Grand Cru Bougros would have an outstanding reputation if all the vineyards were on the incredibly steep Côte Bouguerots. The wine has a character all of its own: electric, linear and extraordinarily intense. The flavours are based around white fruit, the minerals more stony than marine in style, and the persistence makes clear that this is a great wine for the long term.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

From the steepest part of the vineyard, this has a little light primrose colour and a glorious, magisterial bouquet. With some fresh lemon notes, there is huge weight to this, opening out to a really sumptuous succulent finish – and just a touch of youthful bitterness to drive the saliva. Some tannins at the back add to the concentration, fabulous dry extract. Hugely impressive, this is perhaps the Chablis of the vintage. Drink 2022-2035.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

In common with most of his colleagues, Didier Séguier was ready to harvest in early September; starting on Thursday 3rd with the vineyards which had been hit by the hail storm earlier in the week. The damage was to volume rather than quality and certainly just from tasting it was not possible to see where the hail had fallen. These are powerful wines which have nonetheless retained the qualities of classic Chablis.