Although a little removed from the fashionable Wachau and Kamptal regions, there is no doubt Wagram can produce very good wine. And perfectionist Josef squeezes every ounce of expression out of it. The Georgenberg vineyard was planted by his grandfather on prime, mid-slope, south-facing land. Minimal intervention in the winemaking allows the site full expression. 

I love Grüner Veltliner. It has the weight of Chardonnay but a flavour profile that includes white pepper and, some say, lentil. That makes it a good food wine alongside ripe greengage, orange blossom and a tell-tale earthiness. Unique. Lovely young, it takes on honeyed old age after 10 years. Perfectly at home with a schnitzel and freshly squeezed lemon.

Harvested on 12th October, bottled in August 2013, the single Georgenberg vineyard was planted by Josef's grandfather. It's prime south-facing, in the “fillet mignon”, the sweet spot of the slope. Aged in 50% French oak it's got Chardonnay like breadth, egged on by the hot and early vintage. Yet on the palate it's more Chablis (Preuses), with greengage presence, white musk and succulence. Impressive and incredibly well-made. Drinking 2014 - 2020.
David Berry Green