Nantaise

This domaine, 18 kilometres south of Nantes (with its beautiful waterways and giant mechanical elephant), is owned and meticulously run by Sébastien Branger. The domaine’s 27 hectares stretch across numerous terroirs, but this cuvée hails from younger vines (15 to 35 years old) which ripen early, on a gneiss-rich slope overlooking the river Sèvre. It’s hand harvested and aged for seven months on its lees. Slightly spritzy in the glass, as any good young Muscadet should be, with classic citrus aromas. The palate is feather-weight, with a modest 12 percent alcohol and electrifying acidity. This is a maritime wine, in the vein of a Txakoli or Vinho Verde, and an ideal accompaniment to all seafood, notably oysters or moules marinières.
 

The soils of the Gras Moutons vineyard are strewn with distinctive metamorphic rocks known as amphibolites, to which winemaker Sébastien Branger attributes this wine’s tense, mineral palate and salty tang. On the nose, expect aromas of lemon and white grapefruit – the ’09, recently tasted at the domaine, had developed gorgeous honeyed notes too, but remained fresh as a daisy. Les Gras Moutons can go toe to toe with many a Premier Cru Chablis, and is a peerless accompaniment to oysters. Drink now to 2025
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)