Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru

The most northerly Premier Cru of Gevrey, the vineyard is both high and east-facing. This lends the bouquet a mouth-watering note of crushed berry and the palate a certain severity, leading to pinpointed fruit and sculpted tannins. One to keep. Drink 2023-2029.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

An extension of Mazis-Chambertin, this walled vineyard has deep soils, giving a broad-shouldered and somewhat masculine expression of Gevrey. It’s spicy and brooding, with menthol notes and a supple blackberry mid-palate that gives way to a spicy finish. Drink 2023-2033.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

This domaine was originally put on the map by Christian Sérafin’s father, Stanilaus Sérafin, a Polish émigré, who settled in Burgundy before the war. He initially worked as a mason, before purchasing some land in 1947 and establishing himself as a vigneron. His son Christian inherited the domaine in 1988, though he had been making the wine for the previous 20 years. Christian Sérafin is now past retirement age, but with a niece (Frédérique) in the vineyards and cuverie, and a daughter (Karine) in the office, continuity is in place. The style here is for powerful wines which age exceptionally well. Christian Sérafin’s niece Frédérique feels that 2016 is “une grande année de garde”, and could well surpass 2015. In fact, her confidence in the vintage is such that all the wines will be raised entirely in new oak barrels. The most badly-frosted vineyards were Bourgogne and Chambolle Baudes, which suffered 60 percent frost. Overall yields were down by around 50 percent but the cousins expect to release a larger proportion of the crop than usual en primeur in order to minimise the immediate impact of the losses. These are certainly wines which deserve long- term ageing.

Sérafin’s vines sit within a clos of sorts, in what used to be a cemetery. The vines are 50 years old and the wine has an appealing fragrant top note with a touch more complexity than the village wine. Karine views this as a typical expression of Gevrey. Drink 2022-2027.

The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.

This is just above Corbeaux but further towards the Combe de Lavaux, thus north-facing, although it gets sun all day. The topsoil is especially feeble and the underlying rock is very hard. Unsurprising then that the wine should offer both ripeness and precision, and very successfully. Drink 2023-2028.

The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.

This fine vineyard is right behind the Sérafin cellars. There is a lovely succulence and that sense of strawberries and cream often found in Cazetiers. There’s an extra layer of new oak vanilla, but the Cazetiers character sees it through, sweet and smooth. Drink 2023-2029.

The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.

It feels as though the 2017 vintage’s elegance and freshness has magnified and intensified the profile of Cazetiers. The ethereal, lifted character is very pronounced, with incredible purity of cranberry and redcurrant fruit mingling with a vibrancy and energy that is unmatched in the range. This is undoubtedly the prettiest wine of the vintage, with a purity and precision that will appeal to genuine Burgundy enthusiasts. The palate starts with discreet berry fruit, before unfurling slowly to offer chalky minerals, a touch of oak spice and deeper red fruit, then tightening up to give a nervy, precise finish. The salinity is mouth-watering; not at all aggressive, it just provides backbone and extends the finish. Drink 2022-2030.

This is a beautiful, pure purple with a very heady, lifted, floral note (having undergone 75 percent whole-bunch vinification). Elegance personified, this is really stylish, not heavy but classy. Fine, perfumed red Burgundy.

The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.

Fine mid-purple, Les Cazetiers has very attractive, wild-cherry fruit, with floral notes, impressive density and a strong mineral crunch too. The fruit sweeps all the way to the back of the palate.

“To sum up: summer weather in spring, autumn weather in summer, and then back to summer in September.” Picking started on 12th September and continued for two weeks with respectable yields overall, but once again there was very little fruit in the Beaune vineyards such as Clos des Mouches. The Drouhin style is perfectly attuned to the character of 2014 reds, while this is definitely the best range we have ever seen of white wines here.

Pure, pale colour, this is quite stylish with lovely gunflint and more character than we have ever seen before. Juicy and mineral, it makes one salivate, filled with really pretty white fruit. Well worth looking at.

The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.

Bronze medal winner at the 2016 Decanter World Wine Awards

Glorious purple, the nose is layered with deliciously rich cherries, more fruit than stems. There is an appealing structure to this, dancing heady fruit and good freshness. A fine vineyard, well interpreted.

The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.

A mid-purple colour, this has plumper fruit on the nose, concentrated dark cherries. Again the wine has a fine and balanced structure, stylish and persistent. A little bit tight in its youth, but we really quite like this.

Nicolas and David Rossignol began the harvest on 22nd September, picking over eight days. Yields were up, the grapes were ripe, but some sorting was necessary after a little hail in Beaune and some Suzukiengendered rot in the lower vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin. They are very pleased with their new Pellenc de-stemmer which leaves the berries intact, while continuing to use a percentage of whole bunches as well.

Glowing purple, this is really charming; the oak helps the nose but it marries very well with the succulent, vibrant fruit. Juicy, succulent, with lovely poise, red raspberry fruit, this is very persistent indeed, with an infusion of mineral acidity. Everything is there.

Though we still have the pleasure of tasting with Christian Sérafin, it is now his niece, Frédérique who is solely responsible for winemaking. Christian describes 2014 as being all about elegance and balance, with neither too much acidity nor tannin. The Sérafin wines always repay patience.

Corbeaux always gives a lighter colour, with more finesse and less obvious intensity. It is all there though, thanks to the old vines dating back to 1920. There is a sweetness to the fruit, and an almost ethereal style.

The joy of this domaine is Denis Bachelet’s mastery of pure fruit from ancient vines in his various locations around the village. Denis has recently changed barrel supplier to enhance further the finesse of his wines and in 2014 has employed a slightly lighter extraction. Even so there is a magical concentration to his wines.

Offering a unique opportunity to taste Bernstein’s range of excellent Premiers Crus from the 2014 vintage, this six-bottle case contains two bottles of each of the following:

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Lavrottes, 1er Cru
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux, 1er Cru
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, 1er Cru

Les Champeaux offers a fine, bright purple colour with good depth. There is a wilder bouquet to this wine compared to the Chambolle-Musigny; it’s tightly knit and mineral-infused, while a lovely structural thread supports the vibrant red fruit. The impression is of smaller, more compact berry notes and fine quality oak provides depth and added dimension. The cool site of Les Champeaux always contributes to the marvellous texture of this wine.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Glowing purple in colour, the 2014 Cazetiers has a very fine crisp and classy bouquet, with some dark redcurrant fruit and ripe, red cherries, presented with a formidable sense of precision. There is marvellous concentration and weight throughout, leading to a very long finish with class and refinement. Where Les Champeaux has tightness and minerality, Les Cazetiers has power and weight of fruit. The flesh in the finish promises that this will evolve into a real beauty. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The youngest vines here date back to 1964, planted by Monsieur Boisset himself. This is an incredibly graceful wine all the way through, from its pale pink-purple colour, through the delicate yet intense floral nose, to the swelling fruit in the middle and the exceptionally persistent finish. Drink 2020-2027.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This year Pierre Vincent has been able to achieve his aim of an ideal barrel rotation. Each of these wines has been matured in one-third new wood, one-third one-year-old and one-third two-year-old. Because of the exceptional health of the grapes in 2015, he has also been able to vinify all the wines without de-stemming. His 2015 reds are wines of grace and elegance, while the white wines (picked from 28th August) have an impressive tension alongside a concentration of fruit.

A very rich, solid Gevrey with a lovely smoky, spicy aspect from the inclusion of stems, this bursts with fruit and character; a fine wine from a great vineyard.

The nose here is very dense but rather backward, before it surges forward. Brilliant and complete wine with ethereal class on top of a sturdy bone structure, it is certainly one for the long term.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director