Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru
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Benjamin Leroux,
For laying down,
The most northerly Premier Cru of Gevrey, the vineyard is both high and east-facing. This lends the bouquet a mouth-watering note of crushed berry and the palate a certain severity, leading to pinpointed fruit and sculpted tannins. One to keep. Drink 2023-2029.
It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.
It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.
For laying down,
Sérafin’s vines sit within a clos of sorts, in what used to be a cemetery. The vines are 50 years old and the wine has an appealing fragrant top note with a touch more complexity than the village wine. Karine views this as a typical expression of Gevrey. Drink 2022-2027.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
For laying down,
This is just above Corbeaux but further towards the Combe de Lavaux, thus north-facing, although it gets sun all day. The topsoil is especially feeble and the underlying rock is very hard. Unsurprising then that the wine should offer both ripeness and precision, and very successfully. Drink 2023-2028.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
For laying down,
This fine vineyard is right behind the Sérafin cellars. There is a lovely succulence and that sense of strawberries and cream often found in Cazetiers. There’s an extra layer of new oak vanilla, but the Cazetiers character sees it through, sweet and smooth. Drink 2023-2029.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
Domaine de la Vougeraie,
Ready, but will improve,
This is a beautiful, pure purple with a very heady, lifted, floral note (having undergone 75 percent whole-bunch vinification). Elegance personified, this is really stylish, not heavy but classy. Fine, perfumed red Burgundy.
The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.
The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet,
For laying down,
Pure, bright purple, displaying some floral notes along with the dark red fruit. Very smooth with a long finish and a silky texture, a beautifully graceful wine. This demonstrates clearly that the cooler damper years are better for Petite Chapelle.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
It was difficult at the start and difficult at the end but OK in between”, says Nicolas, who began harvesting on 6th October. Younger vines flowered better, giving more volume than 2012, and only the Beaune vineyards were hailed on. There were no grave problems with rot, and they avoided heavy extraction as the colour came easily enough. Nicolas noted that cool vintages such as 2013 are best for terroir definition, and certainly the hallmark of his wines this year is elegance, and precision.
Domaine de la Vougeraie,
For laying down,
Pure, pale colour, this is quite stylish with lovely gunflint and more character than we have ever seen before. Juicy and mineral, it makes one salivate, filled with really pretty white fruit. Well worth looking at.
The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.
The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.
Domaine de la Vougeraie,
For laying down,
Bronze medal winner at the 2016 Decanter World Wine Awards
Glorious purple, the nose is layered with deliciously rich cherries, more fruit than stems. There is an appealing structure to this, dancing heady fruit and good freshness. A fine vineyard, well interpreted.
The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.
Glorious purple, the nose is layered with deliciously rich cherries, more fruit than stems. There is an appealing structure to this, dancing heady fruit and good freshness. A fine vineyard, well interpreted.
The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.
For laying down,
Corbeaux always gives a lighter colour, with more finesse and less obvious intensity. It is all there though, thanks to the old vines dating back to 1920. There is a sweetness to the fruit, and an almost ethereal style.
The joy of this domaine is Denis Bachelet’s mastery of pure fruit from ancient vines in his various locations around the village. Denis has recently changed barrel supplier to enhance further the finesse of his wines and in 2014 has employed a slightly lighter extraction. Even so there is a magical concentration to his wines.
The joy of this domaine is Denis Bachelet’s mastery of pure fruit from ancient vines in his various locations around the village. Denis has recently changed barrel supplier to enhance further the finesse of his wines and in 2014 has employed a slightly lighter extraction. Even so there is a magical concentration to his wines.
Olivier Bernstein,
For laying down,
Glowing purple in colour, the 2014 Cazetiers has a very fine crisp and classy bouquet, with some dark redcurrant fruit and ripe, red cherries, presented with a formidable sense of precision. There is marvellous concentration and weight throughout, leading to a very long finish with class and refinement. Where Les Champeaux has tightness and minerality, Les Cazetiers has power and weight of fruit. The flesh in the finish promises that this will evolve into a real beauty.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Olivier Bernstein,
For laying down,
Offering a unique opportunity to taste Bernstein’s range of excellent Premiers Crus from the 2014 vintage, this six-bottle case contains two bottles of each of the following:
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Lavrottes, 1er Cru
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux, 1er Cru
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, 1er Cru
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Lavrottes, 1er Cru
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux, 1er Cru
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, 1er Cru
Domaine Joseph Faiveley,
For laying down,
This wine is a rich, concentrated purple, with a touch of perfume from marriage of wood and ripe fruit. This is grand vin: succulent up front before it finishes on a saline mineral quality, with very good tension.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director
The new era at Faiveley is now into its sixth vintage and the house style, which allows the fruit to express itself in a very seductive manner while enhancing the individual qualities of each terroir, has been safely established. Now the management is concentrating on reinforcing their supplybase with some crafty contracts and vineyard purchases in both Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. We may be able to offer more cuvées in the future, and though opportunities are clearly limited by the 2012 vintage circumstances, we have been well looked after this year.
Olivier Bernstein,
For laying down,
Les Champeaux offers a fine, bright purple colour with good depth. There is a wilder bouquet to this wine compared to the Chambolle-Musigny; it’s tightly knit and mineral-infused, while a lovely structural thread supports the vibrant red fruit. The impression is of smaller, more compact berry notes and fine quality oak provides depth and added dimension. The cool site of Les Champeaux always contributes to the marvellous texture of this wine.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Ready, but will improve,
Glowing an imperial purple, this has a richly fruited nose and explosive fruit on the palate. Dark red cherries dominate this beautifully balanced mouthful that is elegant and precise with fruit covering the tannins.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Christian Sérafin notes that 2011 was a surprising year, with results much better than expected. These are elegant wines even by Sérafins standards and since Frédérique, Christian’s niece, has been responsible for vinification, the wines have been showing a fresher style, with slightly suppler tannins. Christian is partly retired, though he still looks after his favourite Cazetiers vineyard, as well as conducting tastings in the cellars. There is a bit more volume available than in the 2010s.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Christian Sérafin notes that 2011 was a surprising year, with results much better than expected. These are elegant wines even by Sérafins standards and since Frédérique, Christian’s niece, has been responsible for vinification, the wines have been showing a fresher style, with slightly suppler tannins. Christian is partly retired, though he still looks after his favourite Cazetiers vineyard, as well as conducting tastings in the cellars. There is a bit more volume available than in the 2010s.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet,
Ready, but will improve,
Showing a lighter colour as usual for this wine, the extra Premier Cru weight comes through on the palate with some red cherries and a little tannin. It is all about finesse this year and the results are admirable.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director The early growing season in 2011 was beneficial to ripening the stems, so Nicolas and David Rossignol opted to use more this year, as they also did in 2009. The wines below were made with 25% stems in general and up to 50% for the Grand Crus. This will have influenced the structure of the wines, but it does not show in the fruit profile. The Rossignols continue to develop their style towards finesse, especially in the finish of their wines and these show very good result this year.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director The early growing season in 2011 was beneficial to ripening the stems, so Nicolas and David Rossignol opted to use more this year, as they also did in 2009. The wines below were made with 25% stems in general and up to 50% for the Grand Crus. This will have influenced the structure of the wines, but it does not show in the fruit profile. The Rossignols continue to develop their style towards finesse, especially in the finish of their wines and these show very good result this year.
Louis began his harvest on 28th August on his earlier Côte de Beaune vineyards and enjoyed bright sunshine throughout the harvest, which ended nine days later. He volunteers that there is less structure than in 2016 but he likes the fruity, gourmand style. This year he looked for freshness and aromatics. “Quatorze degrés n’est pas Pinot,” says Louis (“14 degrees [of alcohol] is not Pinot”). He will bottle earlier, without fining or filtration, as usual. A very pretty range this year, delicious and pure.