Clos-De-La-Roche
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Domaine Castagnier,
For laying down,
A rich purple but less black, there is a bit more refinement here. The wine has excellent weight, with a good mass of fruit behind which is lively all the way through. The blueberry notes are elegant with nuances. It’s very persistent indeed – a wine for the long term. Drink 2025-2035.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
Jérôme Castagnier is the Guide Hachette’s Burgundian vigneron of the year for 2017 and has been shortlisted for young vigneron of the year in the region’s own awards, so it is all happening for him. He began picking his 2015s on September 9th and finished on Saturday 12th before the rain that fell later that day. This year he has used one-third whole bunches for his village wines and the Crus, and in the last two years has refined his barrel regime so that the wood has less impact on the wine. Note that the malolactic fermentation was only just finishing when we tasted and this may have impacted the bouquets.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
Jérôme Castagnier is the Guide Hachette’s Burgundian vigneron of the year for 2017 and has been shortlisted for young vigneron of the year in the region’s own awards, so it is all happening for him. He began picking his 2015s on September 9th and finished on Saturday 12th before the rain that fell later that day. This year he has used one-third whole bunches for his village wines and the Crus, and in the last two years has refined his barrel regime so that the wood has less impact on the wine. Note that the malolactic fermentation was only just finishing when we tasted and this may have impacted the bouquets.
Olivier Bernstein,
For laying down,
Very dense, rich purple, there is a wealth of fruit on the nose, backward but balanced. Very concentrated, the nose is a lovely mix of red and black fruits, dark raspberry leaf, even a savoury blueberry touch, which is very typical of the appellation. The palate continues the blue-fruit theme and majors on a classical, tightly woven texture with seamless tannins. This is a brilliant Clos de la Roche in 2014, a true reflection of the heart of the vineyard.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Lucien Le Moine,
For laying down,
Reduction. In much the same fashion as the Clos St. Denis this displays a relatively refined mouth feel thanks to the fine grain of the tannins and while this isn't quite as fine, I would describe this as more elegant than the typical example of Clos de la Roche. There is good power and plenty of punch to the broad-shouldered and solidly well-concentrated flavors that possess a supple mid-palate and fine length if not quite the depth of its stable mate.
Apr 15, 2014
Apr 15, 2014
Olivier Bernstein,
Ready, but will improve,
Fine bright graceful mid purple. The bouquet shows a wealth of complex fruit along with a touch of toast from the Chassin barrels. There is dark cherry, perhaps blackberry and dark raspberry too. This starts smoothly in the mouth and then kicks on to another level with a vast surge of concentrated fruit. The structure shows both ripe tannins and a little trace of acidity, bringing out the savoury side of Clos de la Roche. This is an impressively dense wine, with very good grip and plenty of nervous tension. Very special this year.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Buying Director
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Buying Director
Olivier Bernstein,
For laying down,
The nose is very sensual and classy, with ripe cherry fruit giving a sense of very small, concentrated, ripe grapes. The wine has a very precise, pure, linear intensity, with a marvellous power. There is a superb nervous tension, with deep, dark fruit too cool to be called exuberant. Crisp with fine fruit, black cherry on the palate, lush and nicely put together, ripe tannins and crisp acidity: this is very fine.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Our jovial friend Jérôme Castagnier has excelled himself this year. The promise we picked up on last year has really been delivered in 2014. He says that the wines have lovely flesh but also a beautiful freshness, and notes some similarities to 2010. His generic Burgundies (available on www.bbr.com/burgundy2014) are also excellent.