Clos-Des-Lambrays

All the stems were used in vinification but, such is the intensity of the fruit, they don’t show. This is a rich, plump purple with a surfeit of ripe, velvety red fruit. It is very clean, very pure and very direct: lots of stuffing and lots of stems give this a very tight profile for the moment. This will take a bit longer than some vintages – but promises to be first rate.

Thierry Brouin, whose successor at the Domaine des Lambrays is about to be unveiled, is very happy with 2014, his 36th vintage in charge here. He began picking on 22nd September, relatively late by his standards, and is happy to have produced a little more wine this year (with the exception of the Premier Cru).

This has a little less whole-bunch this year (85 percent) and 50 percent new oak, as usual. This really goes through the gears. To begin with, the colour is profound. The bouquet has a brilliant interplay between spice and dark fruit – cinnamon one moment, damson the next. Finally the whole performance is sewn together by a carefully worked infrastructure of silky tannin and tightly woven acidity. This is a very special example of both the style of the domaine and Morey-St Denis itself. Drink 2025-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The Clos des Lambrays was established in 1363 yet it was only in 1981 that this climat was finally promoted to Grand Cru status, as it deserves. The estate was purchased in 1996 by the Freund family who sold on in turn to LVMH in 2014. Winemaker Thierry Brouin has been in charge since 1979. The vineyards are run on more or less organic lines, with no chemical anti-rot sprays and ploughing of the soil by horse. In the cellar, he likes to use the majority of the stems, favours punching down over pumping over and prefers to restrict the amount of new oak – around 50 percent for the Grand Cru. This is Thierry Brouin’s last vintage before his successor Boris Champy takes over. Morey was spared the frosts, so there is an air of unbridled optimism here. A cold spring left only a touch of frost on the vineyards under the trees, but otherwise the vines were untouched. Similarly, the mildew – which was exceptionally problematic for some growers, especially if they were organic – was controlled effectively. August was even warmer than in 2015 and timely September rain made this a fine year at the domaine.

This is made with 95 percent whole bunches and 50 percent new wood. With a lovely, noble mid-purple colour, the Clos des Lambrays starts discreetly, like other early-picked wines, then absolutely explodes into action. This is unquestionably glorious in its own classic style – a heavenly wine, in perfect balance. Drink 2024-2035.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Thierry Brouin, who will be retiring by the end of 2017, appears to be finishing on a high with superb vintages in 2015 and 2016. It is not a large crop in 2015, just 30hl/ha for the Grand Cru, but – like everybody else – Thierry appreciated the long, sunny summer and the healthy grapes. As always, he was amongst the earliest pickers, starting on 3rd September. 

All whole bunch fermentation, with 50% new wood. Palish in colour, it is lovely and elegant, with very stylish floral notes and fresh, crunchy red fruit and plenty of minerals. This has the drive and energy of the 2008 but with a little more weight of fruit. It is a lovely expression of Lambrays. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Since last we spoke the domaine has been purchased by LVMH, though Thierry Brouin has remained in charge. No immediate changes are expected, except in one respect. While 2013 remains a very small crop (27 hectolitres per hectare for the village wine, 25 hectolitres per hectare for the Clos) it is at least much more than last year.

Despite the youth of this wine its heady intensity is a glorious harbinger of things to come. Chilled black cherries and loganberries are kept fresh by good acidity and the tannins are firm but fully ripe. This is a wine for the long term. Drink 2015-2025.

Made from tiny yields (only 26 hl/ha), the 2008 Clos des Lambrays certainly makes up in quality what it lacks in volume. There is tremendously elegant fruit on the bouquet and it is completed by a fresh, racy finish; a great result.

Very heady, fine, ripe, graceful fruit dominates here, with the stems beautifully integrated. A refreshing touch of acidity at the back of the palate enhances the experience of this brilliant wine which finishes in a state of grace and elegance.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Maintaining his reputation as being one of the early pickers, Thierry Brouin, the experienced régisseur of Domaine des Lambrays, started on 22nd September in fine weather. He loves this vintage and with good reason. The Clos des Lambrays in particular is a sublime wine. But as with most domaines in 2010, yields are significantly down.