Les Charmes
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
With more than 35 vintages under his belt, Patrice Rion considers that 2015 is the finest of his career, offering elegance, acidity and persistence. They began picking on 5th September and finished before the rain which arrived the following weekend. The only sorting that needed doing was to remove any dried-out berries. The yields were acceptable, just 10 percent down in volume on the previous vintage. Unusually, Patrice and his son Maxime have used some whole bunches on certain cuvées, notably the Clos des Argillières and Clos St Marc.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Despite this being a very late season, Patrice compares 2013 to the fruit of early vintages such as 2007 and 2011, but with more stuffing. It also reminds him of 1980, a particularly successful vintage chez Rion. The 2013 crop is a small one though, a touch more than 2012 but less than 2011. They employed two sorting tables, and since the grapes which reached the vats were all healthy, they used less sulphur during vinification.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Patrice and son Maxime Rion are tweaking their techniques a little by reducing new oak and slightly increasing extraction in the pre-fermentation stage. The results are impressive; in 2011 the wines have come in naturally at around 12.5% alcohol and they show a true sense of balance.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director
We have decided to combine here the wines that fall under the domaine label and those produced officially as négociant wines and labelled as Patrice Rion. Most of these cuvées are from vines managed by Patrice who has one contract to farm the vineyards and another to buy the grapes. The exceptions are the village Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-St Georges Vieilles Vignes where Patrice is not involved in the farming.
Patrice and son Maxime are tweaking their techniques a little by reducing new oak and slightly increasing extraction in the pre-fermentation stage. These are impressive results – the Nuits-St Georges continues the consistently fine streak of recent years while this is certainly the finest range of Chambolle-Musigny that they have ever produced. 2010 reminds Patrice a little of 1978 and 1991, two vintages with small yields, full ripeness and notable concentration.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
Patrice Rion and his wife Michèle began their own small domaine in 1990 with just two wines, Bourgogne Rouge, Les Bons Bâtons and Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras, while Patrice was still working as winemaker with his family at Domaine Daniel Rion. In 2000 Patrice left the family business to develop his own estate further. Today most of the vineyards are in Nuits-St Georges and Chambolle-Musigny. Recent vintages have seen the increasing involvement of Patrice’s son Maxime. The Rion cellar is a bit emptier this year, partially because of the frost but also, more significantly, because their arrangement in Chambolle for Villages, Fuées, Amoureuses and Bonnes Mares has terminated, and 2015 was the last vintage of those lovely wines. Maxime Rion initially found the 2016s a little “monolithic” after fermentation, but they have discovered their terroir in barrel. The vintage shows more red fruit than black, with the fruit of frosted vineyards having more colour. The long, cool end of season reminds him of 1996 but, whereas that vintage is only starting to drink now, the 2016s will open up earlier. The estate also has a new wine, a Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits from the Dames Huguettes vineyard. It’s made from bought-in fruit, but chosen from an especially well-sited and tended vineyard.
Patrice explains that the hard work they did at the start of the year in pruning short and carrying out a severe de-budding, as well as a little green harvesting on younger vines, paid dividends in terms of avoiding excessive yields and consequent dilution. The dry and warm conditions towards the end of the season allowed them the luxury of choosing when to harvest, in fact beginning on 9th September. Patrice compares the vintage to 1979 and 1989, highlighting the wines’ impeccable balance and freshness (the latter he prefers over power) as particular strengths. Our notes indicate whether the wines are domaine or négoce bottlings.
Patrice Rion compares 2014 to a mix of 1979 and 1989 for the aromatics and delighted to have been able to pick a more or less normal-sized crop. He began on 12th September with healthy grapes, reinforced by his system of two sorting tables, one before and one after de-stemming. The amount of new oak has been reduced here, now just 30 percent on most cuvées.