Les Cras

The nose here – all floral perfume and wispy, chalky minerals – speaks clearly of this vineyard’s prime location up the slope in Chambolle. The purple fruit is initially quite rich, before the chalk and energy of Les Cras kicks in to carry the finish along with floral notes and tension. Drink 2021-2027.

Patrice explains that the hard work they did at the start of the year in pruning short and carrying out a severe de-budding, as well as a little green harvesting on younger vines, paid dividends in terms of avoiding excessive yields and consequent dilution. The dry and warm conditions towards the end of the season allowed them the luxury of choosing when to harvest, in fact beginning on 9th September. Patrice compares the vintage to 1979 and 1989, highlighting the wines’ impeccable balance and freshness (the latter he prefers over power) as particular strengths. Our notes indicate whether the wines are domaine or négoce bottlings.

From the village part of the vineyard, this is a lovely, even, fresh mid-purple with a sensual, stylish, classical Chambolle nose. The wine is tightly knit on the palate with good acidity, but it is the fruit which really stands out. Very long and lovely. Drink 2021-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With more than 35 vintages under his belt, Patrice Rion considers that 2015 is the finest of his career, offering elegance, acidity and persistence. They began picking on 5th September and finished before the rain which arrived the following weekend. The only sorting that needed doing was to remove any dried-out berries. The yields were acceptable, just 10 percent down in volume on the previous vintage. Unusually, Patrice and his son Maxime have used some whole bunches on certain cuvées, notably the Clos des Argillières and Clos St Marc.

A medium dense purple, this has a heavenly perfumed bouquet. With some bilberry and oak, it is nicely balanced. The oak is quite prominent at first on the palate but then the fruit takes over and fills the middle and back of the mouth. There is a touch of salinity to keep it fresh, while the fruit completely covers the bone structure. Drink 2023-2033.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Picking began here on 4th September and took five days in incredibly easy conditions. The thick skins on the grapes and the ease with which the colour emerged meant that it was important not to go chasing the tannins, according to Ghislaine, so she used pumping over rather than punching down. All bunches were de-stemmed as usual. The crop is, once again, slightly on the small side.

Vibrant red and black fruit appeal on the nose of this Chambolle-Musigny, which is a real bundle of energy with good oak integration, a wonderfully suave finish and underlying minerality.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

We have decided to combine here the wines that fall under the domaine label and those produced officially as négociant wines and labelled as Patrice Rion. Most of these cuvées are from vines managed by Patrice who has one contract to farm the vineyards and another to buy the grapes. The exceptions are the village Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-St Georges Vieilles Vignes where Patrice is not involved in the farming.

Patrice and son Maxime are tweaking their techniques a little by reducing new oak and slightly increasing extraction in the pre-fermentation stage. These are impressive results – the Nuits-St Georges continues the consistently fine streak of recent years while this is certainly the finest range of Chambolle-Musigny that they have ever produced. 2010 reminds Patrice a little of 1978 and 1991, two vintages with small yields, full ripeness and notable concentration.

This deep purple, star-bright wine is just as intense as the other cuvées but with a fresh acidity at the back of the palate. Power is in evidence, but also length and a fine sense of style.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Ghislaine Barthod harvested her small crop, 35% to 40% down on 2009, from 24th September over 5 days. She feels that the wines are riper than 2002, our suggestion for a comparable vintage. We tasted on a day shrouded in mist when everything seemed dank and dour, so it is more than likely that Ghislaine’s wines will turn out more lively and fragrant than reported below, when the structure appeared to dominate.

The typicity of this vineyard is a crunchy red cherry fruit and that is what we have here, albeit overlaid with an extra coating of velvet. A beautiful blend of rich fruit and minerality which will keep.

The best bit of Les Cras is classified as Premier Cru and is at the same height as Bonnes-Mares, but facing more towards the combe, and its colder air. The wine is highly perfumed and then the cool stone structure asserts itself. Nevertheless a sunny, smiling Cras this year. Drink 2022-2028. 

Ghislaine Barthod’s domaine originated in the 1920s with Marcel Noëllat whose daughter married Gaston Barthod, a soldier stationed in Dijon who came to buy some wine and got the girl as well. He gave up military life for the vineyards in 1960. His daughter, Ghislaine, and her partner Louis Boillot bought their current premises overlooking Premier Cru Les Feusselottes in 1986. Though they share the team who work the vineyards, the vinification and commercial aspects of their businesses are kept completely separate. The domaine has an incomparable range of ChambolleMusigny terroirs, with eight separate Premier Cru bottlings.

Given the carnage here last year, one could have been concerned that yields might have been high, but these worries were needless. Although there was a certain amount of green harvesting on the younger vines, the old vines (of which there are lots here), if properly pruned and with excess buds eliminated, regulated themselves to reasonable yields well below 50hl/ha. The harvest started on 3rd September and was completed in eight days, with everything beautifully healthy. For Ghislaine, 2016 was about energy; 2017 is about purity.

This comes from the higher (and village appellation) part of the vineyard, mid-hillside and east-facing on very shallow soil over limestone. With lots of bright perfume, there is a delicious redcurrant and juicy edge to this. A clear case of terroir winning over vintage conditions. Drink 2021-2028.