Le Clos-Blanc

This remains one of the most intriguing white wines in Burgundy. It is always very taut, especially in youth, but with age it evolves into an extraordinarily aromatic wine. These elements are discernible in youth and the wine has a creamy texture, with the tropical and stonefruit notes coiled beneath. Drink 2023-2030.

Based in Prémeaux, just south of Nuits-St Georges, Domaine de la Vougeraie was created in 1999 when Jean-Claude Boisset decided to group together all the vineyard holdings of the various négociant companies he had acquired over the years. Pascal Marchand was put in charge in 1999, with Bernard Zito in the vineyards, which are farmed biodynamically. Pascal produced powerful wines, fairly heavily extracted in his early vintages but clearly moving to a softer style by 2004. The wines came of age under Pierre Vincent, who maintained the more delicate approach. He departed after the 2016 vintage, leaving behind a crack team, led by the redoubtable Sylvie Poillot. Top-quality vineyards continue to be added, especially Grand Cru whites in recent vintages.

Pierre Vincent may now be fully installed at Domaine Leflaive, but his legacy is still firmly in place here, with the team he left behind brilliantly stepping up to the mark. They felt that the speed of the harvest was vital this year – no threat with their three teams of pickers, one based each in the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, and another to shuttle between the two, to wherever it was most needed. They began with the whites on 28th August, finishing 16 days later in the Côte de Nuits. They decided the resulting wines, especially the whites, required less new oak; allowing greater fruit purity.

Pure, glowing white with a pale yellow tinge, this is – as always – one of Burgundy's great white wines. There is a lovely layer of flesh and fruit, a marvellous intense backbone and a generous, almost smoky, intensely long finish. Beneficial reduction is woven in throughout.

The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.

One of the most backward wines in the cellar, this is pale lemon with some green tints. There is a fine core of flesh and fruit evident alongside some other fermentation flavours, with very appley notes behind. The density is there, the integrity, the wealth of flavour: this is set to be an exceptional wine. Drink 2019-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This year Pierre Vincent has been able to achieve his aim of an ideal barrel rotation. Each of these wines has been matured in one-third new wood, one-third one-year-old and one-third two-year-old. Because of the exceptional health of the grapes in 2015, he has also been able to vinify all the wines without de-stemming. His 2015 reds are wines of grace and elegance, while the white wines (picked from 28th August) have an impressive tension alongside a concentration of fruit.

This superb domaine continues to grow in reputation. Winemaker Pierre Vincent’s style is for lighter colours and very sensual wines and he has done a cracking job again in 2012; a vintage which supported the plentiful use of whole bunch fermentation. The domaine is certified organic and fully biodynamic.

Fine, bright and clear in colour, and although the bouquet begins discreetly, it is not long before the fruit bursts out. There are some fresh pear notes on the palate and an exceptionally pure, long finish. This brilliant wine is an absolute bundle of energy. Drink now to 2024.

It is easy to underestimate this wine. In its youth it can be explosive with luscious, expansive aromatics, just as now; but the palate tells a different story, which is tight, locked and uncommunicative – but that just sets things up for the future. This is a very special terroir, tucked under the wall of the Clos itself, and its wines are made to age. Drink 2020-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Based in Premeaux, just south of Nuits-St Georges, Domaine de la Vougeraie was created in 1999 when Jean-Claude Boisset decided to group together all the vineyard holdings of the various négociant companies he had acquired over the years. Pascal Marchand was put in charge in 1999, with Bernard Zito in the vineyards, which are farmed biodynamically. Pascal produced powerful wines, fairly heavily extracted in his early vintages but clearly moving to a softer style by 2004. The wines have subsequently been made by Pierre Vincent who has maintained the more delicate approach. Top-quality vineyards continue to be added, especially Grand Cru whites in recent vintages. This is Pierre Vincent’s last vintage, as he is now installed at Domaine Leflaive. Vougeraie is very happy with this year’s result, another domaine to call the vintage “très Bourguigonne”, meaning that the precision and purity of the fruit means this is more terroir-focused than 2015’s broader and more intense style. They are also very happy with the way the frosted and non-frosted vines finally ripened homogenously, giving much of the credit to their biodynamic culture. Given the health of the berries, a lot of whole bunches were used at fermentation.

A monopole, this vineyard has been home to white grapes since 1110, when it was first planted by the monks of Citeaux. A beguiling and intriguing wine, it is taut and cocooned in youth, yet fulsomely aromatic with time. There’s a touch of cream in 2018. Drink 2023-2032.