Nuits St-Georges Premier Cru

Just 11 barrels were made from two hectares, after hail, bad flowering and the heat spike at the end of July had taken their toll. But what is left is wonderful; glowing purple in colour, with rich black fruit flooding the palate. There is weight and energy, very tight structure and ultra-concentration.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Thibault’s two domaines, based in Moulin à Vent and Nuits-St Georges, both returned paltry yields of 16 hl/ha in 2012. Among the Côte d’Or appellations, the Hautes Côtes, Nuits and Gevrey-Chambertin suffered in particular. All of which is a great shame, given the quality of the wines which have been made. Even where Thibault purchases grapes (Aloxe-Corton and Chambolle- Musigny), Thibault makes the major decisions in the vineyard management. His own vines are farmed biodynamically, with ploughing by horse.

Les Porêts was the first vineyard the Faiveleys ever bought. This wine has fair depth of colour, quite gentle and graceful, with medium weight but impressively long. Unusually for the house style, some whole bunches (15%) have been used to lighten the density of central Nuits-St Georges and confirm this as a stylish wine. Medium, deep, red fruit, and very persistent.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

The new era at Faiveley is now into its sixth vintage and the house style, which allows the fruit to express itself in a very seductive manner while enhancing the individual qualities of each terroir, has been safely established. Now the management is concentrating on reinforcing their supplybase with some crafty contracts and vineyard purchases in both Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. We may be able to offer more cuvées in the future, and though opportunities are clearly limited by the 2012 vintage circumstances, we have been well looked after this year.

 

Etienne Grivot has emerged as a star name in Vosne Romanée and neighbouring Nuits over the last few vintages. This is a superb cuvée of village Nuits, fine and fresh with abundant energy and a subtle range of red and black fruit flavours. Impressively persistent.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)

Nuits St Georges is renowned for its rich, weighty wines, the most stylish of which come from the Vosne-Romanee side of the appellation. Amongst these Aux Lavieres is a well thought of lieu-dit beneath premier cru Les Murgers.

A whole raft of very intense blueberry, blackberry and even blackcurrant flavours dominate the palate. Sumptuous, extraordinarily intense, and held together by fine, firm tannins.
(Jasper Morris, MW, BBR Burgundy Buyer)

With an excellent deep purple colour, this has a harmonious, classic Nuits style and is very concentrated and full of fruit, which is enhanced by an almost peppery note. Richly textured and with an amazing finish. Drink 2010 to 2016.

The resurgence begun by the trio of Erwan Faiveley, Bernard Hervé and winemaker Jérôme Flous, who arrived in 2007, is very apparent in this brilliant series of 2011 wines. They began the harvest on 31 August and picked for 9 days. There are some new wines this year from a contract for the whole production of an estate in Chambolle-Musigny and the Faiveley white wines from totally healthy grapes are particularly successful in 2011, perhaps the best we have seen from the new regime.

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This was the first domaine vineyard, purchased by Joseph Faiveley in the mid 19th century. Dense dark purple, with very explosive fruit, it is sensual at first then sturdy, long and fine with a crunchy depth of flavour.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director

Patrice Rion and his wife Michèle began their own small domaine in 1990, but have since expanded. Alongside their domaine wines, Patrice makes a small range of négociant cuvées. He has recently been joined in the business by son Maxime. Patrice’s style is for very pure, harmonious wines, skilfully vinified and then matured in oak barrels with a well-judged percentage of new oak (usually 50 percent new) for 18 months, without racking or fining.

The blend for this Nuits-St Georges, Clos des Argillières is of fruit from the old vines (1945 and 1954) mixed with a few barrels of younger vines (1979). A fabulous, sumptuous nose of plums and Morello cherries wafts from the glass, while the palate has lovely weight and a fine, mineral finish, without the harder edge occasionally found in the past.

A triumph from the first sight of its brilliant bright purple colour. Ripe blackberries and plums make up a sumptuous mid-palate exuding all the warmth of the vintage. Waves of flavour continue right through to the very persistent finish. Drink 2012-2020.

Beautiful bright purple in colour and with a really attractive nose of oak and seamlessly integrated fruit, this wine has a lovely middle ground of dark fruit. A superb village wine.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

This has been one of the most exciting cellars in the whole of Burgundy for the last few vintages, a fact which is beginning to be reflected in the pricing. The significant reduction in crop this year, which Etienne Grivot ascribes more to the extreme winter cold than poor flowering, is also a factor. Etienne has been working hard to refine the tannins in his wines, and has surely succeeded in 2010, by producing wines of great energy but with suave, sophisticated finishes. These are brilliant wines that unfortunately, are in short supply.

The charismatic, charming and all-round top chap Thibault Liger-Belair is blessed with a sizeable chunk of this vineyard and is unsurprisingly involved in the movement to have it promoted to grand cru status. His recent vintages suggest that he has a point.
(BBR Fine Wine)

A miniscule yield but a marvellous wine, this 1er Cru Nuits-St Georges has some delightful peppery touches to the remarkably elegant and persistent fruit. Watch this develop over the next decade.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)

Really well concentrated, this earthy Nuits-St Georges Les St Georges 1er Cru from Thibault Liger-Belair blends truffle notes with an abundance of plummy fruit to create an ultra rich style.

Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by up to 30%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.

2011 was a relatively easy year in the vineyards for Thibault, as there were no problems with health. The main decision was the date to pick (from 5th September) which he chose by leaf colour as an indication of the end of the vine cycle. He employed very gentle vinification this year to keep the fruit fresh. Thibault has been moving towards and elegant style, a little bit away from the plumpness of his early wines. He manages this through shrewd judgement on the use of stems and particular attention to the type and toasting of wood to be used. He is especially proud of his ‘tartare’ barrels with minimum toasting.

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Mingling plums and prunes with weight and depth, this wine is initially restrained but it is all there. A huge volume of flavour develops on the palate, revealing a wealth of fruit and some tannins. This is perfectly in balance for the long term, and marks a big step forward for Thibault. Jasper Morris MW,Berrys' Burgundy Director

Dense, bright purple and offering a powerful nose with dark red fruit and some chocolate notes, the tremendous wine has a structure based on ripe tannins backed up by fresh acidity. A little more time in the barrel will see this wine come up trumps.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

2010 is year three of the ‘new’ Faiveley style and they have again delivered an excellent set of wines. They picked from 20th September to 29th, beginning with Côte d’Or whites. The new regime has concentrated on an overhaul of winemaking principles, leading to a refinement of style. Next up will be a renovation of their Côte Chalonnaise cellars. They have also been expanding significantly into the Côte de Beaune, especially for white wines.

A ludicrously small yield, but it is really good this year. Fine, bright, deep pink and purple with very heady fruit and a vast mouthful of energy, much livelier than in some of the earlier vintages. Strongly recommended. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The vintage began here on 6th October, once again being short on quantity but with good qualitative potential. Thibault feels that the 2013s can take a long barrel ageing, perhaps up to 24 months. He is using fewer lees, but finer, in order to avoid too many reductive problems.

This Nuits-St Georges Lavires from Jean Grivot has a heavenly nose, with a little Vosne-ish perfume sitting on a bedrock of Nuits. There is perfectly integrated oak, making this a really classy wine with beautiful aromatics all the way through.

Sporting a noble, imperial purple colour, this wine stands out in every department. It is classic Nuits-St Georges in the depth of dark fruit, broad-shouldered, powerful rather than flamboyant; yet with a superbly fresh, almost saline, finish. Drink 2024-2034.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

While delighted with the health and quality of his grapes, Thibault felt that it was necessary to adopt a light hand with extraction this year, as phenolic ripeness was only just in place. Sugar levels were correct, acidity in the end just what was needed, so his wines have the typical energy of 2015. There are a few more whole bunches than usual. As always, the wines take longer in this cellar to come round but we were impressed with the potential.

Goodness, this is impressive. Of course, this is a great terroir, which, combined with the vintage, has created a very connected, virile wine. Think of the DNA helix (or, more classically as Thibault proposed, the knot garden at Versailles), with pinpoint vivid fruit, beautifully sprung tannins and shimmering acidity comprising the strands. Drink 2024-2034.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In 2001 Thibault took over an old family property in Nuits-St Georges, reclaiming the vines which had been contracted out to various share-croppers. The family jewels ( his branch) consist of Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot and Nuits-St Georges Les St Georges, to which he has added further vineyards and a few cuvées made from purchased grapes. The vineyards are certified organic and farmed biodynamically, with horses used to plough the vineyards where possible. The oak regime is not to exceed 50 percent new barrels but also not to use any barrels more than three years old. Thibault has also developed several single-vineyard bottlings of Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais). In summer 2017 Thibault opened a new, environmentally friendly cuverie which harnesses geothermal and solar energy and recycles rainwater. Thibault Liger-Belair is a busy man. He has his fascinating project in Moulin-à- Vent (find his Cru Beaujolais wines on page 55) as well as overseeing the forestry and manufacture of the barrels for all his wines, and experimenting with very light toasting. Overall, he is quietly satisfied with this year’s results. He continues to work with varying levels of whole bunches and is trialling a refinement which involves removing the thick, central stalk of bunches, to leave mini-bunches. He was especially badly hit by frost in the Hautes Côtes and Chambolle but elsewhere this is a relatively happy cellar.

Thibault included just 30 percent whole bunches this year, which allowed him to work the fruit a little harder, extracting more colour and flavour from the grapes. That is not to say that the wine is extracted; indeed, there is a real finesse and elegance to this which one might not typically associate with Nuits. The flavours are subtle and delicate, with suggestions of rose petals and violets and a touch of cassis. Drink 2023-2033.

Thibault continues to keep himself busy, having bought more vineyards in Moulinà-Vent. In the Côte d’Or he waited until 13th September to pick, feeling that the skins were not ripe until that point. He describes the vintage as transparent, where each vineyard’s identity is clearly visible, and one where those with large yields will not be able to hide. In the Beaujolais, hail was again a significant factor, reducing the average yield for those wines he made to an eye-watering 8hl/ha. The damage was so bad that it cost more to pick the grapes than he will make on the wines, but he felt a duty to harvest and vinify the fruit. With careful use of the vibrating sorting table, he was able to carefully select only the clean fruit and has made exceptional wines.