Les Greves

The 25 percent whole-bunch gives a floral touch to the nose. The palate has abundant rich red fruit, real generosity and showy, silky tannins. The inclusion of stems has added a chalky structure that extends the finish and provides complexity. Impressive and quite explosive. Drink 2022-2028.

David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.

The Grèves end of Beaune suffered less from frost, so volumes here are not too small. This very elegant style of Grèves comes from three plots – higher, lower and mid-slope. There is wonderful initial concentration of juicy red berry fruit, before silky, supple tannins and a vibrant acidity kick in to add complexity. Lovely. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

From 2008 Dominique Lafon decided to make a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine (Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon). Though this new company has the official status of a négociant, almost all the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in extensive cellars at the Château de Bligny-lès-Beaune. Dominique is delighted with the quality of the wines in 2016, praising their elegance, quality of tannins and fresh fruit profile. In his opinion the wines are as good as, but different to, 2015, explaining that – analytically – many of this year’s wines are no higher in acid than last year, but the slightly less rich character gives them a fresher feel. Unfortunately volumes are disappointing for many cuvées and there are only two commercially available red wines this year due to the frost, meaning that Dominique owed the vineyard owner more in grapes than he produced.

For Dominique, this is the best vineyard in Beaune. A wonderful combination of elegance and richness, there is an initial concentration of dense berry fruit, which segues into velvet tannins and a crisp, palate-cleansing finish. A very sensual and seductive expression of Beaune. Drink 2022-2028.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

Made using 50 percent whole-bunch fermentation and healthy fruit this has a lovely crystal-clear purple colour with a beautiful fragrance. With dense fruit on the cusp of red and black, there’s more short-term tannins from the stems but these will integrate beautifully with the fruit. This will have a great future.

David Croix started picking here on 11th September, two days before he began at Camille Giroud. This was a much easier harvest than 2013, as there was much less hail than the previous vintage. The wines have an elegance and freshness to them that appeals enormously, and yet does not hide their impressive concentration.

From ancient vines, planted in 1904, this Beaune from Domaine de Bellene has rich, blackcurrant fruit, amazing length and a glorious silkiness. It is fresh at the finish, despite the evident richness of fruit. A magical, harmonious wine.

This wine, from the fabulous 2009 vintage, is only just starting out in life. The sunshine character of ’09 is such that the wines are enjoyable from the start, but will age brilliantly.

Domaine de Bellene is the private domaine of Nicolas Potel, established in Beaune since 2007. The title pays homage to the ancient pagan god Belenos, after whom Beaune takes its name.

The domaine is based in some marvellous old cellars, renovated to an ecologically admirable standard (‘Haute Qualité Environnementale’), on the Dijon road out of Beaune. The vineyards are being converted to organic farming, with some biodynamic elements and now cover 22hectares. The wines are made using a high proportion of whole bunches which helps build the structure of the wine to support the generous fruit.

Most Exciting Value Red
Made from very old vines, in this vintage Nicolas Potel’s Beaune Grèves is packed with typical silky charm and approachability. It offers a great deal of complexity and concentration with very impressive rich, red fruit aromas and lovely ripe, melting tannins. This is most definitely the Beaune to buy in this vintage.
(David Jones, Fine Wine Sales Advisor)

From ancient vines planted in 1904, this Beaune Grèves wine has a really impressive depth of fruit tucked into a smart overcoat of well-judged oak. This has more power than Potel’s Savignys, while retaining the finesse; very fine.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Burgundy Buyer)

Deep, rich and powerful from the outset, the ancient vines (planted in 1904) account for the enormous wealth of fruit on the palate, which demonstrates a thoroughly impressive sense of detail. Complex and dense, watch this wine unfold in the years to come.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

2010 is the fourth vintage of this recently created domaine which is vinified by Sylvain Debord in the now largely refurbished winery on the edge of Beaune, all under the watchful eye of Nicolas Potel. Nicolas and Sylvian are particularly keen to use 450 and 600 litre barrels rather than the traditionally smaller Burgundian size, as they aerate the wines nicely without adding too much of an oak effect. The senior wines such as Beaune Grves and upwards, are vinified with all of their stems.

This is a very elegant style of Grèves, from three plots, higher, lower and mid-slope. A fine, bright pink-purple in colour, this is beautifully perfumed, yet with a great crunch of fruit in the middle. In typical Lafon fashion a seemingly agreeable wine takes on another dimension by the finish. Drink 2021-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The whites were picked from 28th August with a good crop for the Bourgogne Blanc, rather less in the other white vineyards. The reds – more wine than in 2014 or 2016 but far from a full crop – are superb, having been vinified with very light extraction, given the health and beauty of the raw material. While all the whites count as domaine wines, there are now two excellent cuvées of Premier Cru Beaune from purchased grapes to go alongside the domaine-owned Beaune Épenottes and the two Volnays.

Bouchard has huge vineyard holdings in Beaune, but one of their oldest is this, bought from a charitable sisterhood of nuns ( hence the name) just after the French Revolution. There are nearly four hectares on sandy and chalky soils, but planted at 11,000 vines per hectare. The wine is very rounded and juicy, showing the use of whole bunches, with a lighter touch and delicacy on the finish. Very delicious. Drink 2024-2032.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Bouchard Père & Fils can trace its origins back to 1731 though it is no longer family- owned. In 1995 Champagne entrepreneur, Joseph Henriot, acquired the company. The wines are made by technical director Frédéric Weber in succession to Philippe Prost. An impressive gravity-flow winery on the Route de Savigny, the Cuverie St Vincent, was completed in 2005, enabling them to process all their wines with optimum efficiency. Bouchard’s total holdings comprise 130 hectares, including 12 hectares of Grand Cru and 74 hectares of Premier Cru, which makes them the largest vineyard owners in the Côte d’Or. Philippe Prost had an individual take on the vintage. His view is that the high levels of rainfall at the start of the year (themselves contributory to the frost damage) saturated the soil to such a degree that high levels of minerals were unlocked and subsequently taken up by the vines. It is useful to get the view of a producer who covers the whole region. He also observed that there were much smaller berries in the Côte de Beaune than the Côte de Nuits and that, on the whole, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were picked at almost the same time. He also offered a thought on bâtonnage: Bouchard prefers to roll their barrels to move the lees, and not to open the bung and stir. This preserves the CO2 in the wine which means less SO2 is necessary.

This four-hectare holding is in the Grèves vineyard, right on the mid-slope. The nose has rich, dense redcherry fruit. The tannic structure is clearly visible but sweet and chalky, giving an interesting counterpoint to the ripe fruit and crisp acidity. Delicate touches of violets and small cherries add detail to a complex backdrop. Drink 2022-2027.

Frédéric Weber explained that the dry conditions in the summer left some parcels suffering from hydric stress, which necessitated a change to the usual picking order. As a result, harvest began on 4th September in the Côte de Beaune for reds, with whites following from 8th and then the Côte de Nuits reds from 12th, finishing with Clos de Bèze on 20th. The season was otherwise very straightforward and Frédéric feels the vintage has given whites with good balance and surprising power, and reds which are rounded with delicate aromas and flavours.

Dominique rents this from the same owner as Vignes Franches, and the vines are also 60 years old. Arguably Beaune’s best vineyard, this has an extra layer of dark, meaty richness alongside the usual bright, floral notes. Drink 2024-2031.

This four-hectare holding is in the Grèves vineyard, right on the mid-slope, its perfect exposition making it the first parcel to be picked. Some (30%) whole-bunch adds some floral perfume to the warm, spicy fruit. Notes of liquorice and graphite combine to give a warm, rounded feel. Drink2023-2030.