Les Greves

For Dominique, this is the best vineyard in Beaune. A wonderful combination of elegance and richness, there is an initial concentration of dense berry fruit, which segues into velvet tannins and a crisp, palate-cleansing finish. A very sensual and seductive expression of Beaune. Drink 2022-2028.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

Here is a flagship wine for Bouchard, coming from the heart of the best Beaune vineyard. It has a full, deep red colour, with very intense ripe red fruit on the palate. However, the best part is the finish, which is amazingly persistent.

A product of the absolute heart of the Grèves vineyard, this is a very complete and remarkable wine in 2010. The core of the fruit is based on rich, dark cherries, but it is the multi-layered aspect that sets it apart this year. Very intense and persistent, it is simply terrific.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Philippe Prost, long-time winemaker at Bouchard Père & Fils, is less flamboyant than his veteran opposite number at Jadot, but he still has firm opinions and he knows the detail of all his vineyard sites inside out. He clearly prefers his 2010 whites to the previous vintage, though we rather liked those too, while the fresh finish of the vintage has brought his excellent 2010 reds to life.

This is the outstanding wine from the appellation of Beaune, made from a great site with a good proportion of 55-year-old vines. It has a beautiful, deep mid-red colour, and a very poised nose of concentrated – but not unduly powerful – fruit. Quite weighty in a good way, with plum and blueberry fruit, well-judged tannins and excellent length.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

In response to the very small concentrated berries which characterise the fruit in 2012, Philippe Prost, head winemaker, has opted for more whole bunch fermentation this year, up to 25% per cuvée. The wines are exceptionally intense, so a little leavening by the inclusion of some stems makes sense. The white wines are bursting with energy, clearly amongst the successes of the vintage.

Exceptionally dense in colour, with black fruits emerging on the nose: blackberry, blackcurrant and dark red fruit too. This is lush, luxurious but stays within its structure, with fresh minerals behind. This wine is enormously complex, hugely concentrated and really pretty extraordinary. Drink 2024-2035.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Picking began on 3rd September, not before, as the whites were not phenologically ripe earlier, and the acidity was stable. For the reds many more whole bunches have been used this vintage, given that the grapes were perfectly ripe. The reds are every bit the standard you would expect, but we were completely bowled over by the brilliance of the white wines here this year.

The Grèves end of Beaune suffered less from frost, so volumes here are not too small. This very elegant style of Grèves comes from three plots – higher, lower and mid-slope. There is wonderful initial concentration of juicy red berry fruit, before silky, supple tannins and a vibrant acidity kick in to add complexity. Lovely. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

From 2008 Dominique Lafon decided to make a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine (Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon). Though this new company has the official status of a négociant, almost all the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in extensive cellars at the Château de Bligny-lès-Beaune. Dominique is delighted with the quality of the wines in 2016, praising their elegance, quality of tannins and fresh fruit profile. In his opinion the wines are as good as, but different to, 2015, explaining that – analytically – many of this year’s wines are no higher in acid than last year, but the slightly less rich character gives them a fresher feel. Unfortunately volumes are disappointing for many cuvées and there are only two commercially available red wines this year due to the frost, meaning that Dominique owed the vineyard owner more in grapes than he produced.

The 25 percent whole-bunch gives a floral touch to the nose. The palate has abundant rich red fruit, real generosity and showy, silky tannins. The inclusion of stems has added a chalky structure that extends the finish and provides complexity. Impressive and quite explosive. Drink 2022-2028.

David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.

Made using 50 percent whole-bunch fermentation and healthy fruit this has a lovely crystal-clear purple colour with a beautiful fragrance. With dense fruit on the cusp of red and black, there’s more short-term tannins from the stems but these will integrate beautifully with the fruit. This will have a great future.

David Croix started picking here on 11th September, two days before he began at Camille Giroud. This was a much easier harvest than 2013, as there was much less hail than the previous vintage. The wines have an elegance and freshness to them that appeals enormously, and yet does not hide their impressive concentration.