Le Clos-Des-Mouches

Although its effects were felt less in the Clos des Mouches, the frost limited the yield here, resulting in an exceptionally concentrated cuvée . The crop was healthy, permitting the inclusion of 10 percent of the stems. Deep ruby in colour, this is a touch reduced on the nose, but quickly reveals bright bramble fruit and floral aromas. The palate is dark-fruited and earthy; the tannins are firm at present but promise to become velvety with age. Drink 2021-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Originally from the Yonne department, Joseph Drouhin founded the négociant company which bears his name in 1880. His son Maurice took over in 1918, buying the first vineyards including the famous Beaune Clos des Mouches. His successor Robert Drouhin has now passed on management to his children Frédéric (managing director), Laurent (export markets), Philippe (vineyards) and Véronique (oenology). Philippe manages the vineyards biodynamically while Véronique is supported by oenologist Jérome Faure-Brac and chef de cave Mélanie Sire. Véronique Drouhin is happy with the quality of the vintage, and philosophical about its quantity. She points out that a number of village-level wines have been enhanced by the addition of grapes from Premier Cru vineyards too badly frosted to justify their own cuvée. Where the frost was marginally less severe, the team at Drouhin used a tiny tank press – bought in response to the small crop in 2013 – to make what Véronique describes as “micro- cuvées”. Harvest began here on September 23rd, with meticulous sorting to separate the ripe (first generation) grapes from those which grew after the frost. Virtually all the grapes were de-stemmed, and pigeage preferred to pumping-over in a bid emphasise the fresh, fruity character of the vintage.

This is the last Chardonnay vineyard to be harvested at Drouhin. Not surprisingly then, this is super-rich, with a panoply of tropical fruit, all of them enticing and some of them candied. With only 25 percent new oak, the finish is wonderfully underwritten by 2017’s natural freshness. Drink 2023-2029.

An extensive tasting with Jérôme, who has been at Drouhin 14 years, gave a very useful insight into the style and developments here. In particular, the reds are moving towards a riper, more succulent style, driven by a high level of grape sorting, including an optical sorter, and the ambition to use 25 to 30 percent wholebunch, or more if the vat needs filling. The wines go to barrel turbid and are not racked until the end of their time in bottle. They are also harvesting later. The Clos des Mouches was not harvested until 20th September, long after their neighbours.

Much deeper, darker fruit, there is a little bit of blackcurrant reduction. This is more linear with a huge thrust of energetic fruit behind, quite prettily rounded, very long, fine and lovely, much purer than the nose currently suggests, with impeccable persistence of red fruit notes. Drink 2021-2030.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The healthy crop was picked from 2nd September, with acceptable yields for the whites but rather low again for the reds. Vinification was adapted to suit the nature of the vintage, with less forceful punching down this year, especially at the start. The Drouhin style is compellingly elegant every year, while 2015 delivers an extra coating of velvet to the fruit.