Pertuisots

With subtle perfume, this is rather lovely, but not glossy, as the vineyard lies towards Pommard so is more structured than most. Last year’s frosts were heavy here and have meant some retraining of damaged vines, reducing the normal yield by 40 percent, but they should be back in commission by the 2019 vintage. Drink 2020-2024.


It was a “normal” harvest here this year which, in Jean-Yves’s world, is still a relatively paltry 30hl/ha, due to his scrupulous organic and biodynamic vineyard management. Jean-Yves is increasingly interested in the role and importance of sulphur dioxide in a wine’s evolution. He found that a trial bottling made without SO2 had little expression of the vineyard, yet he finds that adding SO2 too early in the winemaking process makes the wines more fragile and prone to oxidation. A fine range from a reflective winemaker.

David loves the elegance of this vineyard, which comes from a cool site with shallow topsoil and hard limestone subsoil. This is crunchy, pure and focused with plenty of energy. There is a silky, suave mouth-feel but with a rocky undercurrent. Drink 2022-2028.

David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.

Devevey's 2005 is certainly the finest wine yet from the Les Pertuisots vineyard. As well as the charm of the fruit there is a latent power not apparent in earlier vintages. Full, rich and rounded on the nose, the density of fruit and firm, ripe tannins provide the perfect structure.