Les Tailles-Pieds

A majestic Volnay. One-third whole-bunch adds some sweet perfume to the firmer core of the wine, coming from the stonier part of the vineyard. The perfume is delightful, of violet and dog rose, and therefore not too perfumed, and there is a beguiling flexibility as its different facets are teased across the palate. Drink 2023-2028.

As he felt that the tannins were riper than in 2016, Marc-Olivier (Marco) looked for greater extraction just at the start of the fermentation but, other than that, there are no major changes. Marco still uses whole-bunch when he feels it can improve the wine’s texture. Harvest started on 5th September and was finished by 15th September. He is another winemaker losing interest in zero-sulphur, feeling that the identity of the terroir can be lost without SO2’s guiding hand.

Between 25 and 30 percent whole-bunch was incorporated here, giving an ethereal floral character to the nose. There is lovely supple fruit on entry, with surprisingly good density and understated power on the mid-palate. The floral character found on the nose comes back at the finish, haunting. Volnay de garde! Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

Glowing purple with a heady delicious nose, this displays really intense fruit in the domaine’s usual elegant register: noble raspberries, a nice touch of oak and an exceptionally long sensual finish. There was very little hail here, fortunately.

This is the third year in a row that the domaine has suffered serious hail damage, which was especially bad in Marc-Olivier’s village, Volnay, and all the Pommards (Rugiens apart). Because of the hail, he used much less in the way of whole-bunch vinification, just 20 percent on Taillepieds and Rugiens, and none at all on his other wines. As ever, his gentle handling of extraction has resulted in very pale colours by modern standards, but this in no way affects the concentration of his wines. There are very good results here in 2014.

Vinification with the stems gives these wines a notable character on the nose, with floral, spice and rose petals all coming to the fore, and an impressive density on the palate. This is a very graceful wine, and the finish shows a touch of tannin to maintain structure.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Domaine de Montille picked between the 18th and 26th September in 2010. The red wines, made by American Brian Sieve (one of two winemakers in this catalogue born in Indianapolis!) under the surveillance of Etienne de Montille, now show a consistency of style and quality that perhaps was not entirely there a few years ago. The whites are the responsibility of Etienne’s sister Alix and maintain the class of recent times. Together they have produced a fine result in 2010.

Clear, bright and glowing purple this seductive looking Volnay from Domaine de Montille does not disappoint. Very fine, soft and elegant fruit in the foreground is followed by fruit that builds steadily on the palate and keeps going all the way through.

Volnay has been revered throughout the ages, it is a special village that produces wines with wonderful aromatics and beautiful fruit. Domaine Montille is one of the best addresses and this Taillepieds is textbook, lovely dark fruit across the nose and palate and a structure that supports the wine effortlessly.
Matt Tipping, Fine Wine Sales Manager

The 2011 Taillepieds is predominantly whole cluster, giving a fragrant, briary nose with some dark fruit notes. After the flesh and fruit of the middle palate, some tannins emerge to discipline the finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Etienne de Montille thinks he has made brilliant 2011s and we are inclined to agree with him. They have freshness, balance, low alcohol, good acidity, excellent fruit and wonderful tannin integration. Picking began on 27th August and continued through to the 9th September as individual vineyards ripened. The fruit has attractively ripe flavours while rarely getting beyond 12.5% alcohol and Etienne chose to include slightly fewer stems than in recent vintages, except for the top Cuvées. Certain wines are available in magnum and double magnum formats, please contact us if they are of interest to you.

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This beautiful wine combines all the elegance of Volnay with the power of a leading Premier Cru. Energy, weight, persistence and class are all displayed in a sumptuous mass of glowing red fruit. This will be attractive whilst young but will also age very well. Drink 2011-2017.

Only one and a half barrels were made and this Volnay Taillepieds, 1er Cru has a good, bright colour and an energetic bouquet of rich red fruit, supported by new wood. This is notably weighty in 2012, even a touch austere, but the concentration is unquestionably there.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

We have bought wines from this domaine in previous vintages, but this is the first year that they are appearing in the Opening Offer. Marc-Olivier Buffet, son of François, is the man in charge. He has a superb range of Premiers Crus in Volnay and Pommard, and though he managed to make them all in 2012, volumes are minute: below 10 hl/ha. He did not use many stems in 2012 and such is the concentration of the wines that he will give them a longer barrel maturation than usual. Beautiful wines with great aromatics, and keen pricing to boot.

It was a freak year for this vineyard. The vines are 65 years old, on small, sharp gravel over limestone, and what was produced was superb. The domaine has vines above and below the small road dividing the vineyard. The frost wiped out everything on the lower vines, gave only 40 percent in the middle, but gave twice the usual yield at the top – an extraordinary event. Huge levels of ripeness were achieved, nothing was de-stemmed and 30 percent new wood used for a wine that is as exceptional historically as it is qualitatively. A lighter extraction was used this year for a highly perfumed, yet gracefully structured wine. Drink 2022-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

Despite the hail it was possible to do 100 percent whole-cluster fermentation after meticulous sorting. The colour is bright and fresh, while the nose offers some wild strawberry, floral notes. The stems make the finish a touch dry at the moment, but this will come together and soften. There is a brilliant quality of fruit at the finish.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.