The yield here – in one of the village’s highest Premiers Crus – is down 60 percent. Again, there is a sense of austerity, but in a good way, if not typically Chassagne. It’s elegant, with some muffled concentration, as if struggling to appear, and a mineral, saline edge. There’s really very nice length on the palate. There are 90-year-old vines here, but the complication of the vintage has perhaps taken away some of the terroir focus – less terroir, more power. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Michel Niellon (b. 1934) has turned over operations to his son-in-law, Michel Coutoux, who operates out of smart new cellars between Chassagne and Chagny. They have only six hectares of vines, almost all within the confines of Chassagne-Montrachet, including a range of half a dozen different Premiers Crus. There’s a tiny amount of Chevalier-Montrachet as well. The wines are made in a classical style and are usually bottled just before the next harvest. For Michel Coutoux, 2016 was a very complicated vintage. It was not an homogenous vintage with, in effect, three different levels of maturity to manage. The intensity of the frost in Chassagne meant that some parcels took longer to recover than those that had been less frosted, and those elements that did escape. Finding the right moment to harvest all three together (which was necessary to have the critical mass to begin the fermentations) was the key. There was no Chenevottes this year, and that vineyard, along with Les Vergers and the Grands Crus, were the worst affected. There is a maximum of 20 percent new oak this year.

Harvested at 23hl/ha, six barrels were made, seeing a third new oak. It carries the wood beautifully, with plenty of exotic and vanilla notes. There is great density and as ever, a hint of coconut richness and a thread of acidity which provides a taut spine. Quite open and approachable. Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Caroline Lestimé took over from her father, Jean-Noël Gagnard (b. 1926) in 1989, since which time she has fine-tuned the holdings, increasing the number of white wine cuvées by separating out each different vineyard. She has also planted new sites in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune to complement her range of Chassagne-Montrachet (including nine white and two red Premiers Crus) and Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet. Chassagne was badly hit by the spring frosts, especially in the vineyards above the village and towards Puligny. Nevertheless, this is an impressive result for Caroline and she was in ebullient form, despite the relative emptiness of her cellar, perhaps after the fecund volumes of 2017, just harvested. There is an amplitude about her wines this year, which matches the freshness of the vintage very well. Sadly, there is no Masures this year due to frost.

The most accessible of the Premiers Crus, this has a cracking good nose with just a little touch of gunflint. There is superb fruit through the middle, a creamy satin touch, ripe white fruits and perfect balancing acidity. Yes please.

The 2014 vintage is their first to be certified organic by Ecocert, which will appear on the label. Sadly it is another small crop, no bigger than 2013. While Caroline Lestimé was, as usual, self-deprecating with regards to her wines, we can tell you that they are absolutely stunning this year. We cannot remember a better vintage in her cellar.

Clear, bright colour, the nose offers a little more oak than Les Masures, with plump banana notes; then fresher on the palate, excellent weight and length with very good natural acidity. A delicious wine, this will be approachable early. Drink 2018-2023.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The sometimes hesitant Caroline Gagnard was in confident mood when showing us her excellent range of 2015s, and rightly so. Poor conditions during flowering have resulted in a small crop in red, but somewhat better for white. Caroline began picking on 31st August and thinks that 2015 resembles a mix of 2010, ‘12 and ‘13, describing the wines as being both “glace et sorbet” – ie with the fresh precision of a sorbet and the richer texture of ice-cream.