Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets

There is immediate power on the nose here and it is broad-shouldered but less evidently aromatic in its youth than the other cuvées. There is however a spectacular weight on the palate and a huge density of fruit that just needs time to show. One to put at the back of the cellar for longer-term enjoyment.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Caroline l’Estimé (née Gagnard) has been ploughing her vineyards since 2000 to avoid the use of herbicides and switched to full organic farming from 2010 with certification beginning from 2011. Noted soil scientist Claude Bourguigon is consulting. The 2010s were picked quickly (not many grapes alas) between 21st and 24th September, with any rot resulting from the famous storm having dried out or turned noble.

Well-sited on the renowned terroir of the upper part of the slope, the quality of this vineyard is demonstrated by a wonderful combination of delicacy and density in this elegant wine. This is stylish, mineral and admirably persistent.

After the exuberant Blanchot Dessus, the Caillerets is positively discreet and reserved. The nose is very serious, with the fruit masked by aromas of fine minerals and gunflint. The palate is fine, elegant and stony with a persistent salinity to the finish. As ever this is taut in its youth but will gain weight in due course. Drink 2024-2032.


After the catastrophically small vintage last year, Caroline is much happier with the good but in no sense excessive crop of 2017. Indeed, her organic viticulture methods and old-vine holdings mean that yields are a long way below the permitted maximum. Caroline is pleased with the ripe fruit profile of the wines, highlighting the velour, density and volume as key attributes, but taking care to explain that they are not heavy. These are exciting wines, which will be hedonistic in youth but the abundance of dry extract points to huge ageing potential.

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a very discreet bouquet with an underlying sense of elegance. The fruit stretches out marvellously across the palate, making this a hauntingly fine wine with marvellous persistence, right through to the steely finish.

Burgundy 2012 En Primeur - Staff Favourite
Subtle on the nose at first, quite closed but building, lots going on here. Quite astonishing on the palate; complex and delineated, ripe white-fleshed fruit with saline notes, long and mineral, yet fine and elegant, power, class and finesse. A beautiful wine.
Chris Pollington, Fine Wine

It seemed like Jean-Noel Gagnard could do nothing wrong in 2012 and tasting the range of wines was a real joy. Caillerets comes from the centre of the appellation (above Champs Gain) and shows an almost Grand Cru like texture. There is a core of dense exotic fruit with a finish that goes on and on. Brilliant.  
Fine Wine Team

Bright pale yellow in colour, with power and perfume to the nose, but the details need more time to come to the fore. In the mouth the fruit explodes in brilliant fashion, showing the class of this great vineyard. Excellent weight but not yet showing the harmony that will come.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Caroline Gagnard, who has been running her father’s domaine since 1989, is happier with the quality than the quantity in 2012. There will be no Hautes Côtes de Beaune for us this year and very little village Chassagne, but Caroline has been kind enough to look after us as much as possible in our favourite Premier Cru vineyards. Her red wines are also very attractive this year. She tends to make the reds for relatively early drinking, but Caroline’s whites have an excellent track record for ageing very well. These 2012s are chock full of energy, and reflect their different vineyard sites very clearly.