Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets

Volumes were significantly reduced here, both as a result of the frost and because Caroline has grubbed up some old vines which had stopped producing a meaningful crop. There is excellent vitality, with a wonderfully energetic, stony purity to the finish. It’s a little tight at present but will fill out with élevage. Cerebral. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Caroline Lestimé took over from her father, Jean-Noël Gagnard (b. 1926) in 1989, since which time she has fine-tuned the holdings, increasing the number of white wine cuvées by separating out each different vineyard. She has also planted new sites in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune to complement her range of Chassagne-Montrachet (including nine white and two red Premiers Crus) and Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet. Chassagne was badly hit by the spring frosts, especially in the vineyards above the village and towards Puligny. Nevertheless, this is an impressive result for Caroline and she was in ebullient form, despite the relative emptiness of her cellar, perhaps after the fecund volumes of 2017, just harvested. There is an amplitude about her wines this year, which matches the freshness of the vintage very well. Sadly, there is no Masures this year due to frost.

Brilliant and pale, this has a magically mineral stylish nose. There is lovely succulent flesh to this which remains in perfect balance. It may not be strict but the material has been perfectly tailored.

The 2014 vintage is their first to be certified organic by Ecocert, which will appear on the label. Sadly it is another small crop, no bigger than 2013. While Caroline Lestimé was, as usual, self-deprecating with regards to her wines, we can tell you that they are absolutely stunning this year. We cannot remember a better vintage in her cellar.

Bright in colour again, with a light green tint, the nose has fruit and floral notes, while the palate retains the elegance and marries it to a rich cashmere weight. There are pears and yellow plums, with huge density behind and intense power. It just needs a little longer in barrel to come together completely. Drink 2019-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The sometimes hesitant Caroline Gagnard was in confident mood when showing us her excellent range of 2015s, and rightly so. Poor conditions during flowering have resulted in a small crop in red, but somewhat better for white. Caroline began picking on 31st August and thinks that 2015 resembles a mix of 2010, ‘12 and ‘13, describing the wines as being both “glace et sorbet” – ie with the fresh precision of a sorbet and the richer texture of ice-cream.

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a very discreet bouquet with an underlying sense of elegance. The fruit stretches out marvellously across the palate, making this a hauntingly fine wine with marvellous persistence, right through to the steely finish.

Fine, fresh and fragrant, this complete, elegant wine has perfect poise on the palate and an impeccable finish, reflecting the quality of its renowned terroir; this is high class Chassagne Montrachet indeed.