Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets

Volumes were significantly reduced here, both as a result of the frost and because Caroline has grubbed up some old vines which had stopped producing a meaningful crop. There is excellent vitality, with a wonderfully energetic, stony purity to the finish. It’s a little tight at present but will fill out with élevage. Cerebral. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Caroline Lestimé took over from her father, Jean-Noël Gagnard (b. 1926) in 1989, since which time she has fine-tuned the holdings, increasing the number of white wine cuvées by separating out each different vineyard. She has also planted new sites in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune to complement her range of Chassagne-Montrachet (including nine white and two red Premiers Crus) and Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet. Chassagne was badly hit by the spring frosts, especially in the vineyards above the village and towards Puligny. Nevertheless, this is an impressive result for Caroline and she was in ebullient form, despite the relative emptiness of her cellar, perhaps after the fecund volumes of 2017, just harvested. There is an amplitude about her wines this year, which matches the freshness of the vintage very well. Sadly, there is no Masures this year due to frost.

The nose here is mineral and exciting, the body perfectly poised. This is a stunning wine with class, precision and persistence. Caillerets is a great vineyard, don't hesitate!
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Though 2011 has the reputation of being a large vintage for white wines, this was not the case at Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, where many vineyards produced little more than 30 hl/ha. Caroline Gagnard has converted the vineyards to organic farming and the quality of the grapes is evident in this superb range of wines. As ever, this is an outstanding source of Chassagne-Montrachet.

---

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a very discreet bouquet with an underlying sense of elegance. The fruit stretches out marvellously across the palate, making this a hauntingly fine wine with marvellous persistence, right through to the steely finish.

Fine, fresh and fragrant, this complete, elegant wine has perfect poise on the palate and an impeccable finish, reflecting the quality of its renowned terroir; this is high class Chassagne Montrachet indeed.

After the exuberant Blanchot Dessus, the Caillerets is positively discreet and reserved. The nose is very serious, with the fruit masked by aromas of fine minerals and gunflint. The palate is fine, elegant and stony with a persistent salinity to the finish. As ever this is taut in its youth but will gain weight in due course. Drink 2024-2032.


After the catastrophically small vintage last year, Caroline is much happier with the good but in no sense excessive crop of 2017. Indeed, her organic viticulture methods and old-vine holdings mean that yields are a long way below the permitted maximum. Caroline is pleased with the ripe fruit profile of the wines, highlighting the velour, density and volume as key attributes, but taking care to explain that they are not heavy. These are exciting wines, which will be hedonistic in youth but the abundance of dry extract points to huge ageing potential.