Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets

Volumes were significantly reduced here, both as a result of the frost and because Caroline has grubbed up some old vines which had stopped producing a meaningful crop. There is excellent vitality, with a wonderfully energetic, stony purity to the finish. It’s a little tight at present but will fill out with élevage. Cerebral. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Caroline Lestimé took over from her father, Jean-Noël Gagnard (b. 1926) in 1989, since which time she has fine-tuned the holdings, increasing the number of white wine cuvées by separating out each different vineyard. She has also planted new sites in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune to complement her range of Chassagne-Montrachet (including nine white and two red Premiers Crus) and Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet. Chassagne was badly hit by the spring frosts, especially in the vineyards above the village and towards Puligny. Nevertheless, this is an impressive result for Caroline and she was in ebullient form, despite the relative emptiness of her cellar, perhaps after the fecund volumes of 2017, just harvested. There is an amplitude about her wines this year, which matches the freshness of the vintage very well. Sadly, there is no Masures this year due to frost.

There is immediate power on the nose here and it is broad-shouldered but less evidently aromatic in its youth than the other cuvées. There is however a spectacular weight on the palate and a huge density of fruit that just needs time to show. One to put at the back of the cellar for longer-term enjoyment.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Caroline l’Estimé (née Gagnard) has been ploughing her vineyards since 2000 to avoid the use of herbicides and switched to full organic farming from 2010 with certification beginning from 2011. Noted soil scientist Claude Bourguigon is consulting. The 2010s were picked quickly (not many grapes alas) between 21st and 24th September, with any rot resulting from the famous storm having dried out or turned noble.

Since 1989 Caroline l’Estimé has been in charge of Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard in their small cellar in Chassagne-Montrachet.  Caroline has fine-tuned the holdings, increasing the number of white wine cuvées since her father’s time by separating out each different vineyard. Caroline barrel-ferments all her whites before ageing them for up to 18 months in oak casks. These wines truly reflect their terroirs and combine intensity and richness with elegance and balance.

Another magical wine from Caroline. Heavenly bright fruit on the nose leads to a really energetic palate, with dancing fruit, bright ripe lemons and good acidity. The stones of Les Caillerets are definitely singing and dancing this year.

Burgundy 2012 En Primeur - Staff Favourite
Subtle on the nose at first, quite closed but building, lots going on here. Quite astonishing on the palate; complex and delineated, ripe white-fleshed fruit with saline notes, long and mineral, yet fine and elegant, power, class and finesse. A beautiful wine.
Chris Pollington, Fine Wine

It seemed like Jean-Noel Gagnard could do nothing wrong in 2012 and tasting the range of wines was a real joy. Caillerets comes from the centre of the appellation (above Champs Gain) and shows an almost Grand Cru like texture. There is a core of dense exotic fruit with a finish that goes on and on. Brilliant.  
Fine Wine Team

Bright pale yellow in colour, with power and perfume to the nose, but the details need more time to come to the fore. In the mouth the fruit explodes in brilliant fashion, showing the class of this great vineyard. Excellent weight but not yet showing the harmony that will come.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Caroline Gagnard, who has been running her father’s domaine since 1989, is happier with the quality than the quantity in 2012. There will be no Hautes Côtes de Beaune for us this year and very little village Chassagne, but Caroline has been kind enough to look after us as much as possible in our favourite Premier Cru vineyards. Her red wines are also very attractive this year. She tends to make the reds for relatively early drinking, but Caroline’s whites have an excellent track record for ageing very well. These 2012s are chock full of energy, and reflect their different vineyard sites very clearly.

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a very discreet bouquet with an underlying sense of elegance. The fruit stretches out marvellously across the palate, making this a hauntingly fine wine with marvellous persistence, right through to the steely finish.

After the exuberant Blanchot Dessus, the Caillerets is positively discreet and reserved. The nose is very serious, with the fruit masked by aromas of fine minerals and gunflint. The palate is fine, elegant and stony with a persistent salinity to the finish. As ever this is taut in its youth but will gain weight in due course. Drink 2024-2032.


After the catastrophically small vintage last year, Caroline is much happier with the good but in no sense excessive crop of 2017. Indeed, her organic viticulture methods and old-vine holdings mean that yields are a long way below the permitted maximum. Caroline is pleased with the ripe fruit profile of the wines, highlighting the velour, density and volume as key attributes, but taking care to explain that they are not heavy. These are exciting wines, which will be hedonistic in youth but the abundance of dry extract points to huge ageing potential.