Hautes-Cotes-de Beaune

The Clos de la Perrière is one of the outstanding sites of the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, facing south on stony and shallow soil. The nose has a lovely, lifted perfume which leads on to a textured palate packed with pure red-cherry fruit and dense tannins. This will truly hit its stride with a few years in bottle. Drink 2020-2024.

A short tour of one of Sébastien Magnien’s vineyards tells all you need to know about his philosophy; each vine is perfectly manicured, with not a leaf out of place.  This attention to detail is reflected in his wines, which are precise, steely and mineral. Sébastien’s choice of picking date is guided by acidity rather than sugar levels, putting the emphasis on freshness. He declared himself very happy with 2017, comparing the white wines to 2014 but with perhaps a touch more flavour ripeness, and praising the accessible, moreish character of the reds.

Jean-Yves has just under two hectares in the hills around Nantoux. Initially the style is as you would expect: fresh, linear and assertive. Slowly, however, the openness of the vintage becomes evident with a pleasing buttery texture, still supported by a lemony freshness. Drink 2020-2024.

It was a “normal” harvest here this year which, in Jean-Yves’s world, is still a relatively paltry 30hl/ha, due to his scrupulous organic and biodynamic vineyard management. Jean-Yves is increasingly interested in the role and importance of sulphur dioxide in a wine’s evolution. He found that a trial bottling made without SO2 had little expression of the vineyard, yet he finds that adding SO2 too early in the winemaking process makes the wines more fragile and prone to oxidation. A fine range from a reflective winemaker.

From a parcel known as Les Chagnots, a steeper and stonier site than Champs Perdrix, this wine is vinified and matured for 18 months – or 18 moons – in 10 percent new oak. The nose is floral with citrus fruit, while the palate offers surprising density, lime cordial acidity and a chewy, grippy finish which drifts into grilled nuts and spice. Drink 2020-2025.

It was a “normal” harvest here this year which, in Jean-Yves’s world, is still a relatively paltry 30hl/ha, due to his scrupulous organic and biodynamic vineyard management. Jean-Yves is increasingly interested in the role and importance of sulphur dioxide in a wine’s evolution. He found that a trial bottling made without SO2 had little expression of the vineyard, yet he finds that adding SO2 too early in the winemaking process makes the wines more fragile and prone to oxidation. A fine range from a reflective winemaker.

From just over a hectare of vines above St Aubin, this is a lovely, energetic, mineral wine. The vineyard was untouched by frost (but did not escape in 2017). It’s refreshing, skinnier than a Chassagne, but Caroline’s composed hand is evident. Drink 2018-2020.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Caroline Lestimé took over from her father, Jean-Noël Gagnard (b. 1926) in 1989, since which time she has fine-tuned the holdings, increasing the number of white wine cuvées by separating out each different vineyard. She has also planted new sites in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune to complement her range of Chassagne-Montrachet (including nine white and two red Premiers Crus) and Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet. Chassagne was badly hit by the spring frosts, especially in the vineyards above the village and towards Puligny. Nevertheless, this is an impressive result for Caroline and she was in ebullient form, despite the relative emptiness of her cellar, perhaps after the fecund volumes of 2017, just harvested. There is an amplitude about her wines this year, which matches the freshness of the vintage very well. Sadly, there is no Masures this year due to frost.

Unfortunately, the cool location of this parcel above St Aubin meant that at least half the crop was lost to frost this year. What remains is, however, excellent: energetic and crisp, but with extra concentration which gives more grip and density than is typical. Around half the wine is raised in barrel, adding some complexity and apricot-skin texture. Drink 2019-2024.


After the catastrophically small vintage last year, Caroline is much happier with the good but in no sense excessive crop of 2017. Indeed, her organic viticulture methods and old-vine holdings mean that yields are a long way below the permitted maximum. Caroline is pleased with the ripe fruit profile of the wines, highlighting the velour, density and volume as key attributes, but taking care to explain that they are not heavy. These are exciting wines, which will be hedonistic in youth but the abundance of dry extract points to huge ageing potential.

This wine is made from three parcels selected for their excellent exposition and quality vine material, which allows zero-sulphur vinification of whole bunches. The nose is charming, with notes of blackcurrant, peony and rose, and just a touch of white pepper. The palate has sweet fruit initially, but it is the clean and crisp acidity that prevails, along with a haunting, verdant perfume. Drink 2019-2023.

After the catastrophic 2016 vintage, which saw her lose around 70 percent of the crop, Claire Naudin is much happier with 2017. She still didn’t get a full crop, though, because the frost had damaged the vine, stunting the following year’s growth and limiting the crop to 80 percent of a full yield. The vintage certainly suits her style, with wines that are all about elegance, finesse and delicacy. These are appetising wines which always give great pleasure, on even the grandest occasions. As ever the wines are made with 100 percent whole bunches.

Coming from the slightly less prestigious Hautes Côtes, this white Burgundy offers delicious value. There is a chalky, yoghurt-y edge to the nose, filled with citrus, greengage, honeysuckle and hints of green apple. A medium weight to the palate, there is refreshing acidity and a zesty finish.

From vines planted in 1954 grown on classic claylimestone soil this has a brilliant mid-purple colour with a totally alluring dark raspberry bouquet. It has beautifully even fruit throughout, good concentration and structure with both tannin and acidity, and an immensely long finish.

Sébastien professes himself to be very agreeably surprised by the 2014s. He notes good phenolic maturity so could extract the Pinot fruit well, and riper flavours than 2013. Sadly he had yet another vintage of low yields for his whites, especially in Meursault. The wines are concentrated but should be attractive very young.

From vines in Magny-lès-Villers, this wine displays a beautiful mid-purple colour with a glowing intensity of fruit on the nose. The palate has brambly notes, plums, dark raspberry and a little bit of spice. There’s much more weight than usual, with a firm structure. Drink 2018-2022.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer


Since 1994, Claire Naudin, one of Henri Naudin-Ferrand’s three daughters, has been in charge of this small domaine based in the Hautes Côtes at Magny-lès-Villers, a village that sits astride the dividing line between Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Claire is relatively susceptible to sulphur and uses the product as little as possible. Her most exciting wines are those which are vinified with whole bunches (all the stems) and without sulphur, though some SO2 is added at bottling to ensure that the wines remain stable thereafter. Claire’s theory, which her wines bear out admirably, is that there is none of the harshness sometimes evident when the bunches are vinified with their stems if sulphur is not used. Instead a magical floral perfume emanates from the wine.

Claire Naudin has made beautiful wines in 2015, though not in great quantity, as the year’s dry conditions restricted volumes. The wines from the Hautes Côtes are little more than 12 degrees alcohol but have impressive density. All the wines were vinified without sulphur, but have had sulphur added before bottling to ensure stability thereafter.

From old vines around Meloisey, the village where Sébastien grew up, this gorgeous cuvée is characterised by subtle floral aromas and, on the palate, a core of cool red fruit. Look out for Sébastien’s equally deft and delicious Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc. Drink now to 2023.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

This is sourced from one of Jean-Yves’s several plots near Nantoux. The smaller harvest has freed up some barrels, so this year the whole crop is in wood. The low sulphur levels allow notes of honey and quince to be expressed. There is a lovely linearity from these higher vineyards. Drink 2020-2023.

The titular 18 lunes are the 18 lunar months of barrel maturation that Jean-Yves gives this wine, sourced from below his Champs Perdrix vineyard and grown on lighter, stonier soil. It’s another example of how well the Hautes Côtes have performed in 2018. There is an appetising lemon-freshness to the wine and a creamy, lanolin note to the finish. Super value. Drink 2021-2024.

This cuvée comes from a 10-year-old 1.5-hectare vineyard at La Rochepot, above St Aubin. The white limestone soils give a lovely cool edge to a wine with some exotic notes. The fruit was harvested on 5th and 10th September, with half the blend aged in barrel (20% new). Drink now to 2022.

One of the best sites in the Hautes Côtes, this vineyard is south-facing and stony. The old vines regulate the yields. The 2018 offers a lovely contrast between vineyard site and vintage, with the cool, chalky notes of the clos sustaining a nose of kirsch and cinnamon. The finish is surprisingly serious. Drink now to 2024.

The vineyards for this are in cool, limestone-rich sites in Pernand-Vergelesses and Magny-lès-Villers. No sulphur was used at all until the autumn. There is stinging acidity which defies the warm vintage, beautiful citrus fruit and a cleansing, mineral finish. A wine which really punches above its weight. Drink now to 2026.

From three parcels in Magny-lès-Villers and Pernand-Vergelesses, the plant material is so good that it is all whole-bunch fermented. Juicy and very ripe, this may not be Claire’s preferred personal style of wine, but it is a guzzling, irresistibly delicious, summery and inclusive wine. Drink now to 2024.

Remaining one-third in tank, with just 7% new oak. This comes from a parcel in Meloisey and production totals around 30 barrels. This has the nervy, steely feel of the Hautes Côtes with crisp citrus fruit, a touch of ripeness on the mid-palate and a subtle hint of smoky, toasty oak on the chalky, salivating finish. Drink now to 2024.

Carré has just under two hectares in this chalky, south-facing site in Meloisey, planted in 1976 and ’78. The nose is absolutely stunning, with beautiful summer pudding aromas rising from the glass. It’s a wine which you simply want to drink, with tiny, rich red berries, juicy acidity and chalky tannins. Gorgeous. Drink now to 2024.