La Roche-Vineuse

The vines here are relatively young, having mostly been planted since Olivier and Corinne set up the domaine in the late 1980s. This youthful vigour gives the wine an impressive freshness and fruitforward approachability. Fermented and raised entirely in tank, this shows the purity and vibrancy of Chardonnay, with a pleasant citrus bitterness on the finish. Drink 2018-2020.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

This wine shows the quality of this excellent, chalky site. The nose is smoky and spicy, with a little oak showing. The fruit is rich and dense on entry, with some complex floral notes too, but what is most impressive is the tension and acidity of this wine, which finishes on a chalky note as though sucking on a stone. Drink 2020-2025.

Olivier is taking many steps to counteract the warmer summers and earlier harvests; managing the canopy to protect grapes from sunburn, using late-ripening rootstocks, reducing the amount of new oak he uses to keep the wines feeling fresher, and bringing harvest dates forward to retain acidity. The 2017 crop is around 15 percent down due to the dry summer which stressed the grapes. Picking began on 27th August and Olivier feels the wines are a little richer than 2016, but still with very good balance and well-integrated oak.

Located in the south of Burgundy, the Mâconnais is an excellent source of good-value white wine, typically offering a sunnier and fruitier style of Burgundy. Olivier Merlin set up his domaine from scratch in the late 1980s with his wife, Corinne. He quickly established himself as one of the best winemakers in the region.

Vibrant pale lemon in colour, this wine sees between 10 and 15% new oak during the élevage, which serves to add a touch of complexity and breadth to the vibrant citrus fruit. There is excellent concentration and a focused, mineral purity which shines through. Drink now to 2022.

The old-vine cuvée has a nose that is more subtle and smoky than the normal bottling, with a hint of spice and more restrained fruit. The palate is crisp, clean and fresh, the 15 percent oak offering subtle support to the fruit. Very focused and tense. Drink 2019-2023.

The name “Cras” comes from the word “Craie”, which translates directly as chalk or limestone. It’s therefore no surprise that there is a high active limestone content in the soil in this vineyard. This combined with the southwest exposition of the vineyard, gives wine which is a harmonious balance of ripe stone fruit and chalky mineral backbone. The 10 to 15 percent new oak is seamlessly integrated. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

This wine shows the quality of this excellent, chalky site. The nose is smoky and spicy, with a little oak showing. The fruit is rich and dense on entry, with some complex floral notes too, but what is most impressive is the tension and acidity of this wine, which finishes on a chalky note as though sucking on a stone. Drink 2020-2025.

Olivier is taking many steps to counteract the warmer summers and earlier harvests; managing the canopy to protect grapes from sunburn, using late-ripening rootstocks, reducing the amount of new oak he uses to keep the wines feeling fresher, and bringing harvest dates forward to retain acidity. The 2017 crop is around 15 percent down due to the dry summer which stressed the grapes. Picking began on 27th August and Olivier feels the wines are a little richer than 2016, but still with very good balance and well-integrated oak.

Fine, bright, pale yellow, the rich fruit is enlivened by a touch of baked apples. This is fairly powerful by Mâcon standards but has the necessary acidity to retain freshness. Drink 2017-2019.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier, who normally picks after his neighbours, was out harvesting before them this year, starting at the end of August. The hot, dry wind in that period really concentrated both the sugars and the acidity in the grapes. Everything ripened rapidly so Olivier made sure to privilege his best terroirs, and completed the harvest in five fewer days than usual.

A pale straw colour, this has impressive depth of flavour to the nose which is complex with white fruit and a little oak in the background. There is considerable weight on the palate with a tantalising toastiness and notable length. This cuvée has excellent ageing potential. Drink 2019-2024.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is such a fine-boned, elegant wine, even in a warm vintage like 2015. The nose is quite closed for the time being, with a steely, almost herbaceous character. The palate shows tremendous concentration, suggesting an impressive capacity to age.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer

Olivier, who normally picks after his neighbours, was out harvesting before them this year, starting at the end of August. The hot, dry wind in that period really concentrated both the sugars and the acidity in the grapes. Everything ripened rapidly so Olivier made sure to privilege his best terroirs, and completed the harvest in five fewer days than usual. 

Burgundy Vintage 2010 Best Buys - Outside the Box
Lovely ripe fruit engulfs the nose, which is deep, rich and complex with a mineral edge. A very big wine on the palate, with savoury fruit, long and complex on the finish with crisp acidity and hints of limestone.
(Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager)

This Merlin classic begins with lovely, gentle, plump fruit, though there are fresh apple and grapefruit notes mingling within. This is quite lovely and offers superb balance and weight, with fruit to the fore and acidity beneath.
(Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director)

The wizard of the Mâconnais has produced a great range of wines in 2010 from his 14 hectare domaine, supplemented by some purchased grapes from certain appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé. There are few more reflective and meticulous producers in the Mâconnais than the Merlins, who form a great partnership with Olivier’s nervous energy supported by Corinne’s unflagging calm.

From vines planted when Olivier and Corinne set up the domaine in the late 1980s, this wine is made entirely in tank to preserve the fresh fruit character. The nose offers bright citrus fruit, while the palate is crisp, clean and precise with a saline finish. Delicious. Drink now to 2023.

The old-vine cuvée is fermented and aged for the first year in oak, before moving to tank. The nose offers citrus and orchard fruits, as well as some subtle spice and flinty minerals. The palate offers surprising weight and generosity initially, before closing with a tense, fresh finish. Complex and intense. Drink now to 2024.

From old vines planted on a steep, south-facing site with a high limestone content, this is a wine which always punches above its weight. At once generous and fresh, there is the power and density of a Pouilly-Fuissé, combined with piercing chalky minerality. A wine with real ageing potential. Drink 2021-2027.