It is usually made from a blend of Trebbiano Toscana and Malvasia Bianco, with smaller, more quality-conscious producers tending to have a higher percentage of the latter as they believe this improves the quality and enhances the wine's personality. Once harvested, the fruit is dried on rush mats over the winter before being pressed and fermented until the yeast dies off naturally. In larger operations the wines are filtered, chilled and/or sulphured too.
Ageing takes place in 50-250 litre wooden casks which are not topped up, bestowing the wines with an oxidative oloroso-style character. Traditionally the casks were made of chestnut but oak is increasingly taking their place. The best examples come from Montepulciano and tend to be fuller-bodied and more complex, perhaps due to the addition of local variety Pulcinculo.