VdP des Collines Rhodaniennes

Baudelaire, we feel, would have approved of this evocatively named cuvée, the volumes of which have been radically cut in this late picked vintage. Sourced from steep vines just outside the lieu-dit of Tupins, on the southern frontier of Côte Rôtie,  Les Fleurs de Mai  is aged in tank only and delights in forward red-berry fruit flavours, aromatics of fresh raspberries and roses and a fresh generous texture which finishes with an eloquent flourish. 

When I started buying Rhône wines a decade ago, there was one name, above all others, which commanded universal respect and adulation amongst producers and that was the name of Georges Vernay, known affectionately as Le Pape de Condrieu for his almost single –handed feat of rescuing this magnificent appellation from obsolescence. Indeed it became clear that not mentioning Domaine Georges Vernay when in the region could be like going to Jerusalem and not visiting the Church of The Holy Sepulchre, in other words a terrible mistake. Imagine our delight when the House agreed to work directly with Berry Bros and Rudd.

Today managed with brio by George’s daughter Christine and her husband Paul Ansellem, the domaine covers 10ha of Appellation Contrôlée vineyards and a similar area of Vin de Pays, in this case vineyards literally just outside the relevant AOC boundaries. 
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

These south east-facing Syrah vines have now entered their third decade and with a little extra maturity have produced finely focused fruit, both rich and earthy, and also fine. The sweet and savoury are harmoniously entwined.

From vines grown on eponymous, south-facing terraces on schist soils, located on the Seyssuel hillside (north of Condrieu and on the other side of the river), Taburnum seems destined to have more earthy grip and potential for development than some of the eastern Viogniers. This wine has white pepper, spice and a strong finish.

New labelling laws mean this wine is now referred to as IGP (Indication Géographique Protegée) rather than Vin de Pays. If the granting of Appellation status still proves elusive, the wine does not fail to please, with classy Viognier writ large, but with a certain additional power and precision on the finish, which bodes well.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Les Vins de Vienne has almost out-grown their progenitors, in the sense that their négociant arm is now far more significant than that of Messrs Cuilleron, Villard and Gaillard. If the move from the precipitous and chaotic Seyssuel winery has taken a little romance from the project, the brilliant winemaking of Pascal Lombard has ensured an increase in quality and the forging of a distinct identity, important in what may once have been conceived as a somewhat amorphous project.

Despite the relative youth of the vines, which one must remember when rehearsing the long history of the vineyards themselves, the Sotanum is an extraordinarily concentrated wine; dark berried fruit shares the palate with notes of bitter chocolate, peat and crushed blackberries. Graphite and even hints of charcoal underline the individuality of this very special plot. The story is, of course, all in the sub-plot, which is pure schist.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

If one believes the old adage about imitation and flattery, then Les Vins de Vienne should be justifiably proud of the numerous growers now making wine from the ancient vineyards of Seyssuel, just to the north of the old Roman town of Vienne. The role of the founders, Messrs Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard is now one of benevolent consultancy and today it is winemaker Pascal Lombard who is guiding the style and building the reputation. In the manner of the Sorcerers Apprentice, the off-spring has now out-grown all three of its progenitors, but this does not seem to have had a detrimental effect on quality, particularly with the Domaine wines, the best of which are offered below.

Eponymous south-facing terraces on schist soils, located on the Seyssuel hillside are the source of this oak-fermented Viognier. The 2010 is a splendid effort, with classy Viognier writ large with all the usual tell-tale descriptors, but also, pleasingly distinct points of difference, evidenced in particular by gentle white pepper and soft spices.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

If one believes the old adage about imitation and flattery, then Les Vins de Vienne should be justifiably proud of the numerous growers now making wine from the ancient vineyards of Seyssuel, just to the north of the old Roman town of Vienne. The role of the founders, Messrs Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard is now one of benevolent consultancy and today it is winemaker Pascal Lombard who is guiding the style and building the reputation. In the manner of the Sorcerer’s Apprentice, the off-spring has now out-grown all three of its progenitors, but this does not seem to have had a detrimental effect on quality, particularly with the Domaine wines, the best of which are offered below.

We know all about Stéphane’s reputation in Côte-Rôtie; but he is also burdened with the mantle of the leading producer in the ancient Seyssuel vineyards above Vienne. Micro-schist gives this an extraordinary wine a Côte Blonde elegance: violets, dense, dark fruit and very finely etched tannins are all evidenced. As with his Rosine this too is currently a Vin de Pays, but is sure to be promoted to full appellation status soon. 
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer

Best-value Northern Rhône Red
The wines of Seyssuel may currently be classified as Vin de Pays, but I think the quality easily justifies it having its own appellation. No doubt this will happen as some stage; we will be hearing more and more about this emerging area of the Northern Rhône. A floral nose leads to lots of spicy and smoky notes across the palate. Cool, succulent dark fruit with an attractive creaminess, cleansing acidity and an anise finish. A vin de plaisir
Martin Rolph, Private Account Manager

Elegantly styled and full of quality, this strikes an instant sense of complexity with spicy wild strawberries and black cherries on the nose. A bit of hedonistic pleasure isn’t far behind though as the palate is pure and silky smooth, before soft and clean tannins give a very fresh feel to the finish.
Guy Davies, Wine Team

L’Ame Sœur is now recognised as one of the most successful of the Seyssuel projects, that is to say the vineyards that have been revitalised above Vienne on the East side of the River… the subtle differences in aspect and soil (mica-schist in essence) are captured, enticingly, in an example which glories in pavonine complexity on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

If one is permitted to assess the quality of a vigneron by the number of eager Antipodean cellar rats helping out at vintage time, then Stéphane Ogier appears to be the man of the moment. If one takes the more traditional approach of assessing quality by analysis of what is in the glass, or what is in the barrel, then he is definitely the man of the moment. He compares it to 2010, which is praise indeed.

Stéphane is confident that Seyssuel will eventually get its own Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, although not, it seems, before having to pass through a stage as a humble Côtes du Rhône. No matter; he has done more than anyone to raise the profile of these rediscovered ancient vines. Their soils resemble Côte Blonde and their aspect approximates that of Hermitage. The happy coincidence of these features has fathered a wine of aromatic harmony and great latent power.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.

The contrast between the whites is just as relevant for the reds. Sotanum, we once found a little too austere; this no longer appears to be the case. There is a harmonious juxtaposition between the quality of the fruit and the firm, resolute tannins. Drink 2013-2018.

The comparison between the Taburnum and the Condrieu is fascinating. The Taburnum has more flinty focus, a greater linearity and perhaps a little more spicy oak at the back, courtesy of a slightly longer sojourn in oak. Drink 2011-2014.

The 2011 L’Âme Soeur is as good as ever. Produced from vines grown on micro-schist in Seyssuel north of Côte-Rôtie on the left bank of the Rhône, this has become a serious cuvée despite its relatively young 13-year-old vines. Seyssuel is an area were the first Roman vineyards were built and it lay barren after the destruction of the vineyards by phylloxera at the end of the 19th century. The vineyards are steep (up to 50 gradient like Côte-Rôtie itself) and were first replanted in 1996. 14 growers are now located in Seyssuel and in 2012 they all applied to receive AOP status. L’Âme Soeur is rich and spicy on the nose, with good mouthfeel and flavours of rich warm exotic fruit on the palate. As the vines grow older, this cuvée is becoming more and more exciting.
Fine Wine Team

We know all about Stéphane’s reputation in Côte-Rôtie. He is also burdened with the mantle of being the leading producer in the ancient Seyssuel vineyards above Vienne. Micro-schist gives this an extraordinary wine a Côte Blonde elegance, with violets, dense, dark fruit and very finely etched tannins causing one to consider withdrawing the statement made at the end of the La Rosine note above. This too is currently a Vin de Pays, but it is sure to be promoted to full appellation status soon.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Stéphane Ogier is now, arguably, the leading producer in Côte-Rôtie. Confident, modest and courteous, in short he is the perfect ambassador for the appellation. Stéphane now farms 12 parcels in Côte-Rôtie and has also launched a well-named Côtes du Rhône (Le Temps est Venu which we will sell elsewhere). He held his nerve through the rainy patches in September and the relatively late-picking has been rewarded with a superb range of wines. Stéphane compares their style, with more acidity and less alcohol than usual, to 2006, a vintage which has developed very nicely indeed.

A schistous sister for the Côte Rôtie, ‘L’Ame Soeur’ is the fruit of Stéphane’s venture in his Vienne vineyard, which is located to the north of Ampuis in Seyssuel on the site of ancient Roman plantations. Closer geographically to the Côte Brune, the soils are in fact closer in character to those of the Côte Blonde; indeed Stéphane is of the opinion that ,as the vines become mature, they will prove to be even better. The 2010 is certainly very impressive, with a charming spicy nose and notes of bacon fat, raspberry and peat on the palate, all wrapped in silky tannins.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Young, dynamic and handsome, Stéphane Ogier has had another good year, purchasing some more prime vineyards, making some fantastic 2010s and celebrating the birth of his first son, Marius. His wine-making philosophy is intriguing, minutely sensitive to the requirements of both the vintage and the parcel in question. As a generalisation he prefers new wood and destemming for the Côte Blonde, and older wood and less destemming in the Côte Brune. But there are always exceptions... and the wines are always exceptional...