2009 Vintage Port
Learn more about 2009 Vintage Port
2009 has been a split Declaration for Vintage Port wines, with a fault-line evidenced primarily, although not exclusively between the two great dynasties which increasingly control the port trade at the top end.
The reasons for the schism were not commercial, although some may question the decision to declare for a fourth time in a decade, and not necessarily because of the perceived quality of the 2010, hitherto unclear……..it was more an issue of the weather conditions and how it affected the famous Quintas.
The magisterial Douro Valley extends over 100 kilometres, so it is perfectly reasonable to assume that the metrological conditions will be differ from say, the eastern vineyards of the Baixo Corgo to a site such as the magnificent Quinta do Vesuvio, far upstream in the Douro Superior.
Be that as it may, it is not unfair to generalise that 2009 was a year of drought and heat. For the third year running there were only modest water reserves in place when the summer kicked in, and in 2009 the high temperatures ( 40 degrees and over) were present for over a month from August 12th.
Therefore, the vines which fared the best were those on higher ground and from heat-resistant varieties such as Touriga Nacional and the late-ripening Touriga Franca.
Here a coincidence of sugar and phenolic ripeness could be achieved without the former threatening to overwhelm the nascent balance in the musts. Paradoxically therefore, the key, despite the hot year, was to ensure that stalks were not green and tannins not unripe.
The best wines are sourced from exceptionally low-yielding vines, and share an amazing concentration of colour and flavour alike. Sugar and tannin levels are, as one would expect, high, but natural acidity has been preserved and with it structural integrity to ensure a long cellaring potential.
Indeed, it was very instructive to taste the 2009 Taylor Fladgate releases next to their forebears from 2007, 2003 and 2000. The 2009, it seems, has most in common with the 2003 and promises to deliver wines of similar power, concentration and elegance.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Prices:
Bottle
£78.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl67cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl3cs
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
A selection of the best wines and hampers, Money Week, 9 December 2011 Of the famous Symington triptych ( the others being Dow and Graham) only Warre has declared in 2009, and only in strictly limited volumes, reflecting both the inherent low yielding nature of the fruit and the extensive selection that has informed all stages of its gestation.
Made to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the Duke of Wellington’s liberation of Oporto, a dramatic adventure in which a certain William Warre played a prominent part, there will be a generous donation from every bottle sold made to the Help The Heroes Charity.
Sourced principally from the cooler and higher vineyards at Cavadinha, Retiro and Telhada, this is a wonderfully elegant, aromatic Warre, possibly less dense of structure than some, but making up for that by the beauty and integrity of its architectural design. A velvety palate and a rich peppery finish underline this wine’s pedigree.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
Taylor’s is always a treat for the senses and intellect alike, its synaesthetic appeal the fruits of ancient vines and traditional vinification. David Guimaraens, Head Winemaker, is delighted with the wine and praises both its grip and its overall complexity. We concur!