2004 Italy
After the rain of 2002 and the excessive heat of 2003, all indications are that 2004 is a year to remember for all the right reasons for Italian wine.
A long, cold winter was followed by a cool Spring in the centre and north. Warm, but not too hot weather prevailed during the summer, leading on to a September and October with warm sunny days and cool nights, ideal for the long, slow ripening of wine grapes.
The results are fabulous in Tuscany with exceptional wines, likened to 1997 and 1999. Sangiovese is particularly successful across the region from Chianti Classico to Montalcino.
In the Veneto, the phenolic levels of ripeness in Valpolicella are very impressive, and it is a great vintage for Amarone.
Barolo & Barbaresco
A textbook growing season: a perfect fast flowering, fine summer if cooler than average August, the high quality Nebbiolo fruit was sealed by an exceptional September and October with warm dry days and cold nights allowing an extended `hang-time' and a later-than-average harvest, giving thicker skins and consequently bolder, riper tannins.
Indeed, to lovers of all fine wines, these Baroli and Barbareschi are structurally not a million miles away from the best of the classical Bordeaux 2004s, if with more stamina. Unlike the large production levels of Bordeaux however the quantities of Barolo and Barbaresco available are tear-jerkingly small. Built for the cellar, these wines should blossom from 2013 until 2024 and beyond.
Showing 1-26 out of 26 items
Prices:
Hide All Tasting Notes
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£600.00
See All Listings
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£350.00
New To BBX
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£398.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£438.00
See All Listings
Roberto Voerzio,
Ready, but will improve,
Youthful colour, mint oil and truffle on the nose with dark cherry fruit. Palate has the characteristic gloss that you expect from Voerzio with the succulent but structured tannic grip and fresh acidity reigning it in beautifully. There are notes of black tea and a sauvage character that adds interest and length to the palate.
Matthew Tipping - Private Account Manager
Matthew Tipping - Private Account Manager
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£990.00
See All Listings
Luciano Sandrone,
Ready, but will keep,
The 2004 Barolo Le Vigne is one of the darkest, most intense Le Vignes I can remember tasting. In this vintage, the fruit is especially somber, the legacy of the late harvest season. Black cherries, plums, cinnamon, flowers, mint and leather meld together in a sumptuous, exceptionally polished Le Vigne that will continue to drink well for many years. Le Vigne is often slow to get out of the gate, which appears to be the case with the 2004 as well. 96/100
Antoni Galloni - Vinous - May 2015
Antoni Galloni - Vinous - May 2015
See All Listings
Isole e Olena,
Ready, but will keep,
Isole e Olena's 100% Sangiovese Super-Tuscan is always a delight with its notes of rich, ripe black cherries married to subtle French oak. The 2004 is sublime with great power and structure combining with the lush fruit and spice on the palate. The finish is long and elegant with fine tannins. A great classic for the future.
Chris Pollington - Fine Wine Team
Chris Pollington - Fine Wine Team
See All Listings
Il Poggione,
Ready, but will keep,
The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli emerges from the glass with masses of scorched earth, leather, tar, licorice, menthol and dark fruit. The Riserva shows a touch more inner sweetness, richness and depth in its fruit than the regular bottling, plus a bit more French oak as well. For now, the Riserva is quite reticent and requires air, but with time its awesome richness and power come through in spades.
This dark, brooding and authoritative Riserva from Il Poggione is simply gorgeous. Readers who don’t want to pay the premium for the Riserva in 2004 need not worry; I tasted the 2004 regular bottling (twice!) while preparing this article and it is every bit as promising as my review last year suggested. In 2004 the Paganelli vineyard was harvested on the 13th of October, quite late for this estate.
Father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci are on a roll. Il Poggione remains a benchmark property for fine, traditionally made Brunellos capable of ageing exquisitely. I can’t think of too many properties in the world producing wines of this level at these prices with an established track record going back 40+ years. I tasted an extraordinary range of wines at the estate in January 2010, including all of the Brunellos and Riservas in cask from vintages 2005-2009.
Antonio Galloni - Wine Advocate#188 - Apr 2010
This dark, brooding and authoritative Riserva from Il Poggione is simply gorgeous. Readers who don’t want to pay the premium for the Riserva in 2004 need not worry; I tasted the 2004 regular bottling (twice!) while preparing this article and it is every bit as promising as my review last year suggested. In 2004 the Paganelli vineyard was harvested on the 13th of October, quite late for this estate.
Father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci are on a roll. Il Poggione remains a benchmark property for fine, traditionally made Brunellos capable of ageing exquisitely. I can’t think of too many properties in the world producing wines of this level at these prices with an established track record going back 40+ years. I tasted an extraordinary range of wines at the estate in January 2010, including all of the Brunellos and Riservas in cask from vintages 2005-2009.
Antonio Galloni - Wine Advocate#188 - Apr 2010
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£320.00
See All Listings
See All Listings
Giuseppe Mascarello e Figli,
Ready, but will keep,
The Chambolle-Musigny of Barolo, the village of Castiglione Falletto, blessed with calcareous soils and a warm microclimate, consistently produces some of the most velvety Baroli. None more so than Mauro and Giuseppe Mascarello's Monprivato vineyard: a perfectly exposed limestone sunbed giving the ripest, sweetest, headiest red fruit which will emerge one day into a thing of immense beauty.
David Berry Green, Fine Wine Buyer
David Berry Green, Fine Wine Buyer
See All Listings
Vigneti Luigi Oddero, Piedmont,
Ready, but will keep,
Compared to the satiny texture of Castiglione Falletto’s Rocche dei Rivera vineyard, Serralunga’s Vigna Rionda is all about crunchy fruit intensity, poise and presence!
There’s the hallmark red hue associated with Serralunga’s lofty vineyards; the tighter, sinewy grip that points to nutrient-poor, minerally-rich soils that are seemingly bleached white in the summer sun; the crunchy, tiny red berry energy, pace and persistence from perfect aspect, echoing Burgundy’s finest sites. If it seems aloof then that’s because it is: the village’s top vineyard. Give it time and space in a large decanter and who knows, it might even join the party! Drinking now but will improve/mellow further in bottle.
David Berry Green
There’s the hallmark red hue associated with Serralunga’s lofty vineyards; the tighter, sinewy grip that points to nutrient-poor, minerally-rich soils that are seemingly bleached white in the summer sun; the crunchy, tiny red berry energy, pace and persistence from perfect aspect, echoing Burgundy’s finest sites. If it seems aloof then that’s because it is: the village’s top vineyard. Give it time and space in a large decanter and who knows, it might even join the party! Drinking now but will improve/mellow further in bottle.
David Berry Green
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£450.00
See All Listings
Marcarini, Piedmont,
Ready, but will keep,
Maraschino cherries and the skins of ripe, red apples are rounded out by the classic notes of tar expected in a Barolo of this quality. This wine is showing a lot of youth today, but the tannins are perfectly ripe giving promise of good maturation for a decade and more. Sinewy, deep and intensely flavoured with notes of cranberry, some floral touches give the finish real complexity. Don’t wake until 2015 at the very earliest.
(Rob Whitehead – London Shop Sales)
From the Brunate vineyard lower down the La Morra slopes towards Cannubi Boschis, this is a fuller, denser Barolo expression, traditionally made in cement and old slavonian botte, complete with sandalwood notes on the nose. On the palate, the twenty year old vines show their pedigree with rounder, suppler, if no-less impressive tannins, balanced by some broad black savoury fruit.
(David Berry Green)
(Rob Whitehead – London Shop Sales)
From the Brunate vineyard lower down the La Morra slopes towards Cannubi Boschis, this is a fuller, denser Barolo expression, traditionally made in cement and old slavonian botte, complete with sandalwood notes on the nose. On the palate, the twenty year old vines show their pedigree with rounder, suppler, if no-less impressive tannins, balanced by some broad black savoury fruit.
(David Berry Green)
Magnum 6 x 150cl 1cs
£450.00
See All Listings
Ornellaia,
Ready, but will keep,
The gorgeous 2004 Ornellaia is a great way to start this tasting. A lively dark ruby, it is a vibrant effort bursting with expressive aromatics and layered, well-delineated fruit, showing much purity on the palate and closing with a long, finessed finish. Readers hoping to catch this wines full array of nuances will have to wait at least another few years as the wine remains quite primary today. This exquisite effort is not to be missed. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. 95/Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019....
(Wine Advocate - Apr-2007)
(Wine Advocate - Apr-2007)
See All Listings
Carton
Bottle 1 x 75cl 1cs
£330.00
See All Listings
Corte Sant'Alda, Veneto,
Ready, but will keep,
Marinella's finest wine, drawn predominantly from the single 'Macie' vineyard, fermented in large oak and aged for three years in 1500 litre french oak, the stunning 2004 shows both richness as well as precision. The nose evokes a rich brew of rum and raisin chocolate, and of herbs, while the palate is stunningly pure as well as decadent, seductively textured, finely wrapped for another 10 years ageing, so best drunk from 2010 till 2020. Try with goose.
(David Berry Green)
A beguiling nose of baked brioche and dried fruits (freshly made rum babas come to mind.) An impressive, rich palate follows brimming with notes of fennel, liquorice, prunes and bitter chocolate. A simply delightful, lingering finish dominated by smoky morello cherry and sweet cinnamon spice. Try it with a rare venison steak at dinner and you’ll sleep very well.
(Nicola Gilbert - London Shop Sales - 25 Jan 2010)
(David Berry Green)
A beguiling nose of baked brioche and dried fruits (freshly made rum babas come to mind.) An impressive, rich palate follows brimming with notes of fennel, liquorice, prunes and bitter chocolate. A simply delightful, lingering finish dominated by smoky morello cherry and sweet cinnamon spice. Try it with a rare venison steak at dinner and you’ll sleep very well.
(Nicola Gilbert - London Shop Sales - 25 Jan 2010)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 4cs
£600.00
See All Listings
Tommaso Bussola,
Ready, but will keep,
Planted in 1977, Bussola's Vigneto Alto vineyard at 260 metres elevation, south-west exposure and volcanic soils generate their finest fruit, which is then dried, pressed, fermented and aged for approx 3 years in a mix of french and slavonian large 12-25 hl oak. The product is an unbelievably rich (approx 5 grams RS), compact, mocha and roast coffee bean and spice sensation, which remains taut, pure, and elegant throughout; aided no doubt by the great vintage. One for the cellar: drinking from 2012 till 2024, with water buffalo.
(David Berry Green)
(David Berry Green)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 4cs
£800.00
See All Listings
Giuseppe Mascarello e Figli,
Ready, but will keep,
Following up their particularly successful 2003s, Mauro and his son Giuseppe Mascarello have produced a dazzling 2004 Santo Stefano di Perno, a brilliant single-vineyard wine from the iron-rich sandstone and marl soils of Monforte d'Alba. Ribes leaf and sage-scented notes enthral the nose while the palate rings with lift and finesse. Wow!
David Berry Green, Fine Wine Buyer
David Berry Green, Fine Wine Buyer
See All Listings
Bruno Giacosa,
Ready, but will keep,
The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is even more compelling than the Rabaja. It floats on the palate with an ethereal core of sweet fruit that calls to mind a profound Musigny, but with the unmistakable structure of Nebbiolo. The perfumed purity of the fruit carries all the way through to the deeply satisfying, resonating finish. Made in a soft, seductive style, this remarkable wine is decidedly more approachable and easy to appreciate today than the Rabaja... Bruno Giacosa says his 2004 Asili Riserva will turn out to be just like his 2000 Asili Riserva, the wine he still thinks is the best he’s ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.
Antonio Galloni - Wine Advocate - Oct-2007
Antonio Galloni - Wine Advocate - Oct-2007
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£3,590.00
See All Listings
New To BBX
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£345.00
See All Listings
Cerbaiona, Tuscany,
Ready, but will keep,
Given the tiny size of the estate, all 3 hectares of it, little wonder only 8000 bottles were made of this statuesque wine. Compared to a more sensual wine from Stella's San Giuseppe estate to the south-west, Cerbaiona's high easterly aspect, combined with a hands-off traditional botte approach, makes for a profoundly structured, cool compact yet oh so suave black cherry, licorice, & wild herb compote that will take years to unravel; expect to drink from 2014 onwards. Montalcino's finest? We think so.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£1,200.00
See All Listings
Jeroboam 1 x 300cl 1cs
£12,500.00
See All Listings
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£600.00
See All Listings
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
£1,900.00
See All Listings
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£600.00
See All Listings
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£999.00
See All Listings
New To BBX
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£340.00
See All Listings
Showing 1-26 out of 26 items
The only word to describe this Brunello wine on the palate is massive; full bodied and spicy, packed with black and red cherry fruit, all tightly wound in a magnificent structure, fine tannins, mouth watering acidity and supporting alcohol, all in perfect balance. This is a monumental wine for the Cellar and will be magnificent in 2012-2014 and drink for a decade or two after that. A serious candidate for the best Ugolaia ever.
(Chris Pollington, Fine Wine Department)