2012 Italy

From further down the La Morra escarpment, Brunate is clearly more muscular than its sister La Serra, even in 2012. This is darker, brooding garnet-red, fuller and more menthol, with loganberry, balsam oil and liquorice aromas. To taste, it’s squarer, more tannic, more demanding and complex in youth, so will need at least 10 years to come round.


The Marcarini estate was established in the mid-1800s by Giuseppe Tarditi. Today, it is owned and managed by the utterly charming Manuel Marchetti, widower to Giuseppe's great, great, granddaughter, the late Luisa Bava. Their three children are slowly joining the family business, but Mexican-born Manuel is still very much in charge and running the domaine with wonderful passion and enthusiasm.

Roberto’s second vintage making Barbaresco from this celebrated cru. If sand is what characterises Paolin, and grey, marne clay Rabajà, then limestone is what surely distinguishes Asili. (Indeed, Asili could be said to possess the agility of Paolin with the complexity of Rabajà.) Whatever the similarities, it’s clearly beautifully balanced – the limestone element giving us masses of small, red fruit that have soaked up the hot August sun, rendering them tamarind like, decadent even, and complemented by new Stockinger oak botte. 

As it is every year, the 2012 Flaccianello della Pieve represents a selection of the best fruit from the best vineyards (excluding, of course, Vigna del Sorbo that is dedicated to its own wine). The five parcels span various soils types and exposures, and the youngest vines are 20 years old. Because the fruit selection process is so detailed, the darkest and smallest clusters are carefully chosen.

As a result, the fruit is rich in polyphenols, thick extract and extra aromatic intensity. The 2012 vintage saw yields reduced by as much as 20%, meaning that fruit selection was even more severe in this vintage. This beautiful wine shows abundant richness and generosity with toned mineral nuances that are wrapped within bold flavors of dark fruit and spice. The wine is rich and velvety in texture.
Drink 2016-2030
94/100 points Monica Larner, eRobertParker.com #221 Oct 2015  

Bright and ripe classic Sangiovese notes on the nose of red and black fruit vying for attention, with a certain meaty nuance in the background. Lots of fine red fruit on the palate, tempered by crisp acidity and fine, ripe tannins, all in balance with a pleasing mouth-feel and satisfyingly complete finish. This is hard to resist now, but will become even more harmonious if cellared for another four to six years.
Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager

Giuseppe Mascarello & Figlio surely ranks as one of Barolo’s finest producers. The family business dates back to 1881. All the wines are traditionally made using a combination of epoxy-lined cement and stainless-steel cuves, before being aged in large Slavonian botte; capturing the vineyards' full expression.

This wine is high toned on the nose, hinting at the complexity to come. There are notes of red cherry, tea, dried rose and dense minerals throughout. Berries lift the attack. Structurally it is exemplary – long, elegant and complete. Drink 2020-2040+.

We are once again fortunate to be able to offer the opportunity to buy three of Roberto's top Baroli. This year we are featuring the 2012 vintage and we are offering the wines in a mixed 12 bottle case.

This case contains:

5 x 75cl 2012 Barolo Rocche dell’ Annunziata
5 x 75cl 2012 Barolo Cerequio  
2 x 75cl 2012 Barolo Brunate

The Isola et Olena Estate, run by Paolo de Marchi, is a property that has seen a dramatic rise in quality over the last few decades. Paolo's family, originally from Piedmont, purchased the estate in the 1960s. His attention to detail in both the vineyard and the winery was the driving force that turned quality around.

The wines have Cepparello at their head, a barrique-aged Sangiovese classified as an IGT - because at the time of its creation in the 1980s a wine comprising 100% Sangiovese could not legally be labelled as Chianti. This is a fabulous Super Tuscan at an incredibly good price and a wine that can age 10 – 15 years if one so wishes.

Isole e Olena’s Sangiovese Super-Tuscan Sangiovese never fails to please. Beautiful ripe Sangiovese nose of black cherries intermingled with hints of spice. Big and rich on the palate with savoury black cherries, grilled meats and loganberry notes, framed by crisp acidity, fine tannins and a lick of warmth from the alcohol. A very impressive Super-Tuscan which could be drunk now, but would reward 5-10 years in the cellar for the components to knit together and gain complexity. A great lesson in what great Sangiovese from Chianti Classico is capable of producing.
Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager

This gloriously feminine expression of Nebbiolo exudes purity and clarity. The nose is reminiscent of crushed dried petals, crunchy redcurrant and cranberry, layered with savoury undertones. The acidity is bright and finely balanced with the toned tannins. More approachable in its youth than Rabajà and Asili, it will still age with grace. Drink 2018-2024. 

Now firmly amongst the greats of the Italian wine scene, Tignanello’s origins lie in a single vineyard Chianti Classico Riserva ‘Vigneto Tignanello‘ made for the 1970 vintage. Even at this point it broke new ground by being the first Sangiovese aged in small oak barrels, and the die was cast from the 1971 vintage, when it became a Vino da Tavola della Toscana and was named Tignanello after the vineyard from where the fruit originates. Over the following eleven years Tignanello gradually evolved into the wine we recognise today – a wine that no longer follows the rules laid down by Chianti Classico Disciplinare.

This is a Tignanello vintage with wonderful purity of fruit on the nose first and foremost. Pure, unadulterated bramble, hedgerow fruit – exquisite! Behind that initial and impressive wave of fruit there are complex layers of nutmeg, black tea and Asian spices. This continues apace on the palate, and also where the Sangiovese really comes into play. The taut structure and fine tannins build neatly through the midpalate where more layers of hoi sin, dark coffee and subtle meatiness. The finish is textbook Tignanello, refined yet focussed and wonderfully long. Drinking from 2018 onto 2030.
Gary Owen, Fine Wine

Tignanello releases are always of huge interest – a superb Super Tuscan red which still offers significant value. This 2012 release demonstrates the quality and consistency of the Antinori estate very well indeed. The nose offers generous dark fruit, black cherry and cassis with notes of clove and dried herbs. The palate is laced with fine acidity giving real energy and vibrancy, very moreish. Fine, silky and eminently approachable now, but there is more to come of course and more layers will emerge over the coming years. Drink 2018 – 2028.
Martyn Rolph, Fine Wine 

A new vintage of Sassicaia is always a treat and is never a disappointment. Cool, yet ripe Cabernet fruit provides great promise for the wine to come. On the palate that delicious coolness is there again, but there’s no hint of the hard edge that one might expect from such a cool wine, in fact ripeness of fruit is abundant. It’s more about the restrained sophistication of the style of this wine, incredibly elegant and fine, this is very impressive. All is perfectly in balance; fruit, acidity and fine tannins, nothing dominating. This isn’t a blockbuster of a wine, but if you are looking for something elegant and restrained with real breeding, this classic Sassicaia is for you.
Chris Pollington – Private Account Manager

 

Solaia is derived exclusively from its namesake vineyard, Solaia—meaning sunny one—a 10-hectare, southwest-facing site that is comprised principally of marl soils and albarese rock.. The Marchesi Antinori firm produced this wine for the first time in the 1978 vintage with an initial blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, a blend repeated again in 1979.

Solaia is a 50 acre (20 hectare), southwest-exposed vineyard of the Tignanello estate situated between 1150 and 1320 feet (350-400 meters) above sea level on stony soils consisting of calcareous clays and limestone rock. The Marchesi Antinori produced this wine for the first time in the 1978 vintage with a blend consisting of 80% Cbernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, repeating the initial production in 1979. In the following vintages 20% of Sangiovese became part of the blend and certain corrections in the ratio of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc were made as well until the current composition of the blend was defined and became definitive. Solaia is produced only in high level vintages and was not produced in 1980, 1981, 1983,1984, and 1992.

Of Giovanni's two sumptuous Cannonau wines, this is more accessible, born of a higher, 'cooler' (relative to Sardinia!), younger, more humid and hence more fertile vineyard called 'Elisi'. It sits on the side of a hill, well ventilated, has a great view and is notably more clay-rich granitic, hence giving a fruitier wine. Such was the vintage, with a cool spring and hot summer that the wine sports a super-ripe, yet fresh loganberry fruit nose; it's so enchantingly, violet fragrant - a hallmark of Cannonau (from Mamoiada) - with crunchy, 'essence', suave, sotto-bosco (wild blackberry) compote flavours,similar in profile to Chateauneuf du Pape, with which it shares Cannonau/Grenache. Only 3,500 bottles made.
David Berry Green

Stefano’s desire to produce an Amarone with more freshness is clear in this elegant, yet full-bodied wine. Aromas reminiscent of stewed, sweet plums and wild herbs are supported by chocolate and roasted coffee. The mouth-feel is silky in texture and the weight of fruit buffers the tannins. Excellent balance.
Drink from 2016-2035.

Yields were down 20 percent at Bartolo Mascarello in 2012 due to a hail storm that hit the Rocche dell’Annunziata vineyard. This, combined with a comparatively short maceration of 20 days and minimal racking, have contrived to make Mascarello’s 2012 Barolo one of the most delicate, ethereal and Pinot-like in recent years. With air, this rose-petal Barolo is timid, creeping slowly out into the limelight. Maria Teresa aged the wine partly in the two new 50hl garbellotto botti, giving it a sandalwood edge to the rose, coal tar and orange-skin notes. There’s great finesse on the palate, with cool, red-berry crunch and sapid, svelte lines: this is racy yet served on a cushion of sweet red fruit. Such lift!

This remains a very traditional expression of the elevated La Serra vineyard in La Morra. Compared to the Brunate, La Serra is always more perfumed, breezy and ethereal, with incense and notes of dried grass. The 2012 vintage is especially discreet, scented with distinct notes of cassis, hay and tea-tree. This is slender on the palate, sylph-like even, with delicate notes of quinine, spices, kirsch and cassis. This will come round earlier than the Brunate.

Thanks to Alessandria’s sensitive winemaking, one can greatly appreciate the styles that differentiate the two villages of Verduno and Monforte. Where Verduno’s Baroli are cool and laced with limestone, here the brambly, Bonnes Mares-esque fullness is expressed by Monforte’s Gramolere vineyard, with its red sandstone and west-facing aspect which overlooks Bussia below. It’s a darker hue than the Monvigliero, rich with eucalypt, cologne and wild mint aromatic lift. Fuller, fleshier and meatier, there’s a gorgeous, brambly, rosemary roll, backed by an iron spine and molten tannins. 

While the Rosso family’s Vigna Rionda vineyard may now be the most sought-after, it’s their Serra vineyard, on bright, white, talc soils just across the road that consistently catches the eye. Beautifully poised with salty, red-cherry fruit freshness and such focus. While Cerretta delves out the plummy fruit in abundance, Serra is more sinewy and highly strung, like a thoroughbred race horse. This is pure, red rose essence.