2004 was a rare beast in vinous terms, namely a vintage which combined quality and quantity. A cold start to the year was followed by a slightly tempestuous late Spring and early summer, then a rather uninspiring August and finally the almost obligatory salvation in the shape of a dry and warm September. A late harvest of healthy fruit promised wines of structure and elegance, with Chardonnay just edging Pinot Noir qualitatively. And so it has proved. Not dissimilar to 1998, which is now perceived as an excellent year. There is a good chance that 2004 will, over time, enjoy a similar re-appraisal.