2003 Spain

I enjoyed the enticing aromas that escaped the glass long before tasting the 2003 Unico. It seems almost criminal to open a bottle at this point as Unico needs at least two decades of ageing (a decade at Vega and a decade in the cellar). Dense, irresitable, with layers of herbs de provance, linear black fruit and a minty freshness. The lace-like finesse is surprising considering the heat of the vintage and the finish lasted 45+ seconds.


Unico (meaning ‘Unique’) is the signature wine of the estate and only released in outstanding vintages. Produced in 2003 with 92% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon the wine is matured for 25 months in old wooden vats, followed by 17 months in new barrels, 10 months in semi-new barrels and 22 months in large wooden vats. For the remainder of the time it is aged in bottle and nearly released 10 years after the vintage. Its fine silky structure caresses the palate, while continuing to give a nuanced array of delicate flavours; fragrant roses, black earthy notes, soft blackberries, white pepper are all framed by a gentle freshness.

Vega Sicilia, Spain’s ‘first growth’ and most prestigious wine estate, was founded in 1864 by Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves, who arrived from Bordeaux with cuttings of local grapes and planted them, together with Spain’s signature grape Tinto Fino (Tempranillo). Vega Sicilia has founded its success on its meticulous wine-producing practices; in the vineyard it applies low yields, aided by green harvesting and a painstaking grape selection.

Six new sorting tables and open-top stainless steel vats were introduced for this vintage, indicative of the on-going quality initiative at Artadi; deep colour, rich nose and plenty of Tempranillo charm.
From eponymous old vines at altitude on the chalky Alavesa soils. Aged in French rather than American barriques. A voluptuous perfume which marries woodsmoke, cream and cassis, then rich and intense en bouche. Notes of prune, aniseed and even garrigue lend complexity. The overall structure is impressive and will repay keeping for 4-6 years.