2008 Spain

Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana (CVNE) was founded in 1879 by the Real de Asua brothers and nearly 140 years later their descendants are still in charge of what is now a considerable operation.  In 1973 they created Contino, the first single-estate concept in the Rioja region, and the single vineyard Viña del Olivo is located in one of the best areas of Rioja near Logroño in La Rioja Alavesa. Hugging the banks of the river Ebro the vines surround a 1,000-year-old olive tree, hence its name, and the resulting wines are hugely impressive, sophisticated yet understated.

The 2008 is made up of 88 percent Tempranillo and 12 percent Graciano with ageing for 36 months in oak of various origins. The wine is subsequently rich and deep; however there is balance and harmony beneath the rippling musculature.

Valbuena is Vega Sicilia’s second wine, produced from younger vines and aged for a shorter period than Unico. As a result it is more obvious fruit focussed and approachable earlier. The 2008 is produced with 93% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) with the remaining 7% a blend of Merlot and Malbec. It is released 5 years after vintage and has spent 7 months in large wooden vats, followed by 15 months in new barrels (50% French and 50% American oak), 3 months in semi-new barrels and another 6 months in large wooden vats. Vanilla and brambly fruit on the nose is framed on the palate with silky tannins and a streak of acidity that adds freshness. Very fine.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Vega Sicilia, Spain’s ‘first growth’ and most prestigious wine estate, was founded in 1864 by Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves, who arrived from Bordeaux with cuttings of local grapes and planted them, together with Spain’s signature grape Tinto Fino (Tempranillo). Vega Sicilia has founded its success on its meticulous wine-producing practices; in the vineyard it applies low yields, aided by green harvesting and a painstaking grape selection.

Vega Sicilia’s owners, the Álvarez family, bought Bodegas Pintia in 1996, attracted to the galet-strewn terroir in the north Spanish wine region of Toro, the rich clay subsoils and the familiar altitude. Toro’s main point of difference to Ribera del Duero is the ambient temperature, which can blaze in the height of summer. The challenge here is to match concentration with elegance, a challenge met by Bodegas Pintia with no shortage of aplomb.

With a rich nose of sweet blackcurrant and cherry fruit, lined with perfumed menthol and spice, the wine has a dense, powerful palate, with the same concentrated fruit but a superb savoury element and hints of tar, all swept along into an excellently fresh, fruit-filled finish.

The El Pison vineyard has a pleasing aura of tranquillity, its setting a modest natural amphitheatre, its vines embellished by bright flowers at the end of each row. A relatively light top-soil soon gives way to rock, which descends for up to 1.5 metres, defying the vines’ roots to dig deep and providing natural humidity and in-built temperature control. The 1945 vines yield a nose that is both ethereal and richly evocative, and a palate which, even in youth, is harmonious and finely balanced. Spicy and firm on the finish, this is surely one of the finest statements of Tempranillo that one is ever likely to find.
Simon Field MW, Fine Wine Buyer

Eponymous old vines, some approaching their half century, punctuate the gentle limestone hillsides of Rioja Alavesa. The quality of the Tempranillo grapes is high beyond dispute, but they are still treated to the rigours of six sorting tables in the quest for perfection, an on-going process as they are currently mid-way through their ageing in new Allier barriques. The old vine parcels for the 2008 were tasted separately, in Laguardia, by the BBR buyers and we made our own blends and then compared them , with a sense of wonder, to Juan Carlos’ vastly superior assemblage. For the record it looks as if the 2008 will come 40% each from the Biurco and Vallandres vineyards, the balance, sourced from Carranajera and Quintanilla. The Biurco contributes elegant fruit tannin and a lively aromatic attack, whereas the Vallandres, my personal favourite, adds complexity in the form of notes of truffle, smoke and black fruit, its tighter tannins providing the perfect foil to those from Biurco.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)

For me this is the sweet spot of La Rioja Alta’s range. Exhibiting aromas of spiced plums, damson and sweet spice with hints of Asian spice and vanillin on the nose. Succulent brambly fruit sits at the core of the palate which is medium bodied. Ripe, integrated tannins hold the framework for the layers of sweet cherry and strawberry fruit, savoury notes of leather and cured meat, entwined with a gentle spiciness. Texturally pleasing, a gentle creaminess coats the palate courtesy of American oak maturation, which is wonderfully balanced by a complementing acidity; maintaining freshness and balance through to the long finish. Wonderfully produced with lots going on, you can buy with confidence here with the quality assurance coming from one of Rioja’s most famed and adorned bodegas. Delicious to enjoy now but will continue to evolve and develop further complexity over the coming 7+ years, drinking from 2018 – 2024+.
Chris Lamb - Private Account Manager

The 2008 Unico is immediately more savoury than its younger sibling (the 2011 Valbuena) with hints of cured meat mingling with the beautiful layers of macerated strawberry and blueberry fruit. A creamy vanilla top note, draws you in but what is astonishing about this wine is the level of superb, pinpoint-fine tannins. They are truly spectacular, so elegant and fine yet still with a noticeable grip. This is a wonderful, rewarding wine. 
Catriona Felstead MW, Spain Buyer

The flagship wine ‘Unico’ of Vega Sicilia is dominated by 95% Tempranillo with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and has undergone extensive ageing before release. 2008 had its difficulties as a vintage, yet this is a magnificent result which is another testament to the pedigree of this world renowned estate. Standing opaque ruby in colour with inviting aromas of muddled hedgerow fruit, damson and sweet spice. A touch more savoury in character than the ‘Valbuena’, there is a dried herbal note which unfolds alongside warming aromas of mocha.

The palate is sublime and for me this is set apart by its extraordinarily fine tannins; perfectly integrated yet steadily building underneath providing a framework for the years to come. Mouth filling but without being too bold, there is an immense purity here and layers of baked forest fruit, cloves and dried meat sit across a silky texture. Perhaps not the most structured Unico, but certainly is a harmonious wine which deserves its place in any cellar, and will offer superb drinking pleasure from 2020 -2030+
Chris Lamb, Private Account Manager

Made from equal proportions of Garnacha and Carignan (Samsó) from vines over 50 years in age, the Clos Monlleo is always a treat. The 2008 has an incredibly fresh nose, given its venerable decade of age, with wonderful, pure aromas and a lovely depth of fruit on the palate. One of the signature traits of this wine though is its incredibly smooth mouth-feel; it is a wine that glides effortlessly across the palate. Slightly floral on the nose with a touch of vanilla, it is generous and rewarding with layer upon layer of succulent fruit coming to the fore. This is serious too, however, with a savoury edge and hints of leather indicating its maturity. This is perfect to drink now but will hold and gently mature for the next 5 to 7 years. Drink late 2018 to 2025.