Old school Rioja can vary tremendously; there is a fine line between the sublime and the ridiculous and the bad ones can be very bad indeed. This is one of the very best and a firm favourite chez moi.

One of the most reliable and impressive of the traditional houses in Rioja, C.V.N.E. is still owned and run by the Real de Asua family whose forebears established it back in 1879. Its full name is Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España but it more commonly, if somewhat prosaically, known, phonetically at least, as "coonay". In the late 1980s the firm built an immense new stainless steel winery in the town of Haro to complement its traditional barrel cellar. CVNE is therefore a palace of steel in one location; a cathedral of oak in another. The ‘twain meet, harmoniously.

CVNE’s two signature brands are Vina Real and Imperial. Both are traditional in style and aspiration, although the original idea, never completely forgotten, was for Real to resemble Burgundy and Imperial to be closer, stylistically, to Bordeaux. The Imperial Gran Reserva sources fruit from the best vineyards in both La Rioja Baja and La Rioja Alta.  Only the best fruit form the best years is aged for so long, with extensive further bottle age prior to release; the wine repays the complement with its elegant understated power.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)