2007 Australia

Grange is arguably Australia’s most famous wine and is officially listed as a Heritage icon of South Australia. Grange boasts an unbroken line of vintages from 1951 and clearly demonstrates the synergy between Shiraz and the soils and climates of South Australia.

Unmistakably Grange on the nose ripe, pungent, confronting, wrapped in darker elements (soy/cola/peat/ coal-dust, black liquorice with sesame, sea-weed, quince paste), followed by coffee & bitter chocolate overtones.

The palate is balanced and accessible; fresh and tight, defined by flavours of dates, freshly baked pecan-pie, custard tart. The oak is omnipresent, yet neither prominent nor ostentatious—completely assimilated. The tannins are neither obstructive nor aggressive, yet effortlessly conveying flavours.  Maturated 21 months in barrel and three years in bottle.

The 2007 vintage was challenging with low winter temperatures and accompanied by low winter rainfall. Dry conditions persisted throughout the growing season and resulted in low yields. Fruit ripened relatively quickly and was selectively
harvested earlier, parcel by parcel, pursuing full flavours, structure and balance.

A single vineyard planted in 1994 with cuttings from old RinRig vines (hence the Descendant) – some of the oldest genetic material in Australia. This is Barossa’s first co-fermented Shiraz/Viognier – the Shiraz is crushed directly on top of lightly pressed Viognier, fermented then matured for eighteen months in barrels previously used for RunRig.

Deep red clay soils give the wine a savoury edge and a rich texture, with silk-like mouthfeel. This will age impeccably well for those that have the patience.

Co-fermented with a splash of Viognier, the 2007 Run Rig gives a very deep garnet-purple color and a perfumed nose of warm cassis, crushed blackberries and blueberries over anise, cassia, cloves, tea leaves, rose hips plus earthy hints of black truffles and tilled loam. The full-bodied palate offers rich, ripe but not over-ripe fruit with a taut structure of firm grainy tannins and crisp acid, finishing very long with a gamey / savory character coming through with some cedar and baking spices.

Not a man known for his modesty, David Powell was notably less humble than usual during my recent visit. That overly confident smirk that he wears when he’s about to reveal a winning hand has no doubt incited more than a few barroom riots. It was only human nature that I was subconsciously willing his current releases to be even a little underwhelming. And I almost wish I could tell you they were. If his demeanor can at times be enough to set bloods boiling, before I get to the tasting notes I’ll inject a few words about what does impress me about Powell.

He is extremely knowledgeable and passionate about what happens in his vineyards, perhaps more so than in the winery. He has close relationships with his growers and calls the shots when it comes to vineyard management, recently telling me he had to end the contract with a grower of a fabulous vineyard of ancient vines this year because the grower simply refused to follow his instructions. The structures of his red wines particularly stand out to me.

Through developing an individual approach to tannin management and extracting a quality and texture of tannins that comes purely from grape skins that are carefully reared and harvested within a tight window of ripening, he creates some truly iconic reds…though even at the more modestly priced wines can age very gracefully. Finally Powell does not release wines that aren’t up to his high standards and as smug as he can be about his successes...
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - Wine Advocate # 192 Dec 2010

In the words of its makers, “ our homage to the great old Shiraz vines of the Barossa
Valley and the growers who painstakingly tend and nurture them each year”. This is
perhaps the essence of classic Barossa shiraz.