2014 Red Burgundy
Hide All Tasting Notes
Maison Camille Giroud,
For laying down,
David’s deft hand has produced an elegant Charmes- Chambertin, which is very prettily perfumed, with fine raspberry fruit. Everything is as it should be structurally, with neither acidity nor tannins impeding the succulence of the fruit; this has an agreeably persistent finish.
Tasting with David Croix at Camille Giroud is always a pleasure, especially so this year as the range of 2014s is delicious. David feels that the wines are all about drinkability and balance rather than exceptional power. His theory is that the great start to the growing season kept the vines healthy through the cool, damp summer.
Tasting with David Croix at Camille Giroud is always a pleasure, especially so this year as the range of 2014s is delicious. David feels that the wines are all about drinkability and balance rather than exceptional power. His theory is that the great start to the growing season kept the vines healthy through the cool, damp summer.
Maison Roche de Bellene,
Ready, but will improve,
Medium deep, bright purple with a healthy heady nose, the use of some whole bunches adds a touch of zest. There follows good, ripe, berry fruit, lively and attractive, more raspberry than strawberry in flavour. The acidity is well harnessed, and the finish admirably persistent. This offers remarkable value in 2014.
“A vintage of pure happiness,” enthuses Nicolas Potel. He rightly retains enthusiasm for Burgundy as a whole and his own wines in particular, though his life has been made more difficult by the explosion of prices for grapes on the open market. However these cuvées make sense to us: we tasted a wide range and picked out the plums.
“A vintage of pure happiness,” enthuses Nicolas Potel. He rightly retains enthusiasm for Burgundy as a whole and his own wines in particular, though his life has been made more difficult by the explosion of prices for grapes on the open market. However these cuvées make sense to us: we tasted a wide range and picked out the plums.
David Moreau,
Ready, but will improve,
From old vines planted in 1943 and 1947, with about half the production coming from Premier Cru Les Roères, this has a lovely purple colour with a heady, ripe-fruit nose. The tannins may be a touch more rustic than for Santenay, but it’s hard to care when the fruit is so delightful – it surges to the back of the palate. Beautiful stuff.
One of the exciting aspects of a buyer’s job is to discover new talent on the way up: David and Blandine Moreau clearly fit that description. David began his sixth harvest on 11th September for the white wines and 17th September for his more numerous reds. He is happy with the yields, and characterises the 2014s as having “fresh, crunchy fruit”, finding them more concentrated than 2007, not as strict as 2013 and overall a millésime de plaisir.
One of the exciting aspects of a buyer’s job is to discover new talent on the way up: David and Blandine Moreau clearly fit that description. David began his sixth harvest on 11th September for the white wines and 17th September for his more numerous reds. He is happy with the yields, and characterises the 2014s as having “fresh, crunchy fruit”, finding them more concentrated than 2007, not as strict as 2013 and overall a millésime de plaisir.
Sebastien Magnien,
Ready, but will improve,
From vines planted in 1954 grown on classic claylimestone soil this has a brilliant mid-purple colour with a totally alluring dark raspberry bouquet. It has beautifully even fruit throughout, good concentration and structure with both tannin and acidity, and an immensely long finish.
Sébastien professes himself to be very agreeably surprised by the 2014s. He notes good phenolic maturity so could extract the Pinot fruit well, and riper flavours than 2013. Sadly he had yet another vintage of low yields for his whites, especially in Meursault. The wines are concentrated but should be attractive very young.
Sébastien professes himself to be very agreeably surprised by the 2014s. He notes good phenolic maturity so could extract the Pinot fruit well, and riper flavours than 2013. Sadly he had yet another vintage of low yields for his whites, especially in Meursault. The wines are concentrated but should be attractive very young.
Domaine de Montille,
Ready, but will improve,
Despite the hail it was possible to do 100 percent whole-cluster fermentation after meticulous sorting. The colour is bright and fresh, while the nose offers some wild strawberry, floral notes. The stems make the finish a touch dry at the moment, but this will come together and soften. There is a brilliant quality of fruit at the finish.
Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.
Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.
Domaine de Montille,
Ready, but will improve,
One third whole-bunch vinified, for the old vines, this is dense purple, with deep raspberry fruit. The wine displays a crunchy, fresh, mineral finish, reflecting the limestone content of the soil here, with some tannins neatly framed by the fruit.
Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.
Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.
Ready, but will improve,
Just 12hl/ha but that is still better than 2012 or 2013. Made with 30 percent new wood, this is a glorious imperial purple; on the nose, it’s really fragrant, lifted and lovely. To taste, there’s raspberry fruit mixed with alpine strawberries, some darker fruit too, the whole stretching beautifully across the palate. It has medium density and a pure and stylish finish. There’s a little touch of tannin at the back to remind us that it is Pommard – and a very fine one at that.
Paul Zinetti has replaced Benjamin Leroux as régisseur (general manager) at this famous estate. He has inherited a great position but also, alas, a tradition of hail-affected vintages. With this in mind, Paul has looked for lighter extraction in 2014, with less punching down than previously. He has been with the domaine for several years prior to taking over, so he is fully au fait with these vineyards. The village Auxey is a steal this year.
Paul Zinetti has replaced Benjamin Leroux as régisseur (general manager) at this famous estate. He has inherited a great position but also, alas, a tradition of hail-affected vintages. With this in mind, Paul has looked for lighter extraction in 2014, with less punching down than previously. He has been with the domaine for several years prior to taking over, so he is fully au fait with these vineyards. The village Auxey is a steal this year.
