2017 Red Burgundy

This is a vineyard which was planted by David’s grandfather in the 1960s, having previously been scrub as its shallow limestone topsoil presented too great a challenge to vignerons. The delicate and perfumed nose gives the impression of a floral and elegant wine, but the palate offers surprising minerality in the form of mouth-watering tannins backed up by crunchy redcurrant fruit. Drink 2020-2026


David began picking on 7th September for his Pinot Noir, pointing out that while this was the same date as in 2015, the two vintages have contrasting profiles. David used the word digeste to describe the 2017s, suggesting these are wines which will have you reaching for the next glass. The character of the vintage is one of freshness, purity, bright red fruit and floral notes, a combination which marries perfectly with Davids precise and confident winemaking style.

The style of the vintage suggested to Ben that this year all his Gevrey should be in 228-litre barrels, having used a 3,500-litre foudre last year. He has also got his hands on some good quality old-vine fruit as well. Again, Ben has captured the succulence of the year but also found intensity. Drink 2020-2025.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

There is generic Bourgogne in this, but there is also Hautes Côtes de Nuits (from Dames Huguettes), Monthélie and also declassified Premier Cru fruit contributing 20 percent of the blend. This is benchmark stuff, as always, with bright violet perfume and a satisfying redcurrant crunch. Drink 2019-2023.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

Four barrels from one parcel, this is a regal Volnay, flattering yet compelling at the same time. There were two-thirds whole-bunch this year, but Ben makes the decision for this vineyard based on the quality of the vines’ genetic material, mostly on the basis of its 70-year-old vines. Drink 2023-2029.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

This 89-year-old vineyard, planted half to Pinot Noir and half to Gamay, was one of the two original parcels that Frédéric’s grandfather began with (the other being Clos des Chênes). The soil is very gravelly here, which gives a wine with a gorgeous red-fruit perfume, crunchy, chalky tannins and a saline finish. This is proper wine. Drink 2019-2023.

Michel Lafarge (b. 1928) and his son Frédéric make use of their combined experience to produce some of the greatest wines in Volnay. There is nothing modern in their winemaking, though the meticulous care of their biodynamically farmed vineyards puts the domaine at the forefront of viticultural practices. When they are working on a patch of vines they are usually accompanied by their hens who eat up any lurking pests. The grapes are de-stemmed, vinified traditionally and very little new oak is used in the cellar. In 2014, they purchased vineyards in the Beaujolais which are farmed using the same biodynamic practices as employed in the Côte de Beaune.

Frédéric was keen to highlight the solidarity shown between vignerons at the end of April, as they mobilised to put in place measures to prevent a repeat of the frosts of 2016. Burning dampened straw bales at strategic locations, they succeeded in creating cloud cover which saved the vast majority of the vineyards. He also stressed the importance of “fractional harvesting” – waiting until each parcel is fully ripe before picking – and feels that the domaine’s biodynamic practices allow the grapes to achieve even ripening and balance, a real boon in early vintages such as 2017. For those with long memories, 90-year-old Michel compares 2017 to 1947 and 1964.

To give a bit more concentration to the wine, Vougeraie did perform a saignée this year (running off some juice during fermentation), as a wise precaution in a year that was potentially so generous. This has plenty of the Clos Vougeot solidity, which is good, with a long and satisfying finish. Drink 2025-2030.

Based in Prémeaux, just south of Nuits-St Georges, Domaine de la Vougeraie was created in 1999 when Jean-Claude Boisset decided to group together all the vineyard holdings of the various négociant companies he had acquired over the years. Pascal Marchand was put in charge in 1999, with Bernard Zito in the vineyards, which are farmed biodynamically. Pascal produced powerful wines, fairly heavily extracted in his early vintages but clearly moving to a softer style by 2004. The wines came of age under Pierre Vincent, who maintained the more delicate approach. He departed after the 2016 vintage, leaving behind a crack team, led by the redoubtable Sylvie Poillot. Top-quality vineyards continue to be added, especially Grand Cru whites in recent vintages.

Pierre Vincent may now be fully installed at Domaine Leflaive, but his legacy is still firmly in place here, with the team he left behind brilliantly stepping up to the mark. They felt that the speed of the harvest was vital this year – no threat with their three teams of pickers, one based each in the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, and another to shuttle between the two, to wherever it was most needed. They began with the whites on 28th August, finishing 16 days later in the Côte de Nuits. They decided the resulting wines, especially the whites, required less new oak; allowing greater fruit purity.

A lovely portal to all the wines that follow, this captures the style of the vintage at Grivot. As usual, it’s a blend of differing terroirs across the appellation and sets the benchmark for the very silky style of the vintage, yet with a beguiling textural depth. Drink 2020-2024.

Jean Grivot, whose name continues to appear on the labels, took over from his father Gaston in 1955 and handed the estate on to his son Étienne in the early 1980s. Étienne, married to Marielle Bize from Savigny, has been through a number of incarnations as winemaker here. When he took over, his father’s style was for gentle, graceful wines which perhaps were a little weak in the lesser vintages. Since then Étienne has found his own voice and made a range of increasingly fine wines. The drive to reduce yields and fine-tune his work in the vineyards and cellar since the mid-2000s continues to enhance quality. The succession to the next generation is now well underway, with Mathilde and Hubert increasingly influential, under their father’s experienced and wise guidance. 

Here the decision was to wait for a bit of rain, to get the skins and berries fully ripe. The rain did the trick and the resulting wines are among the best of the Côte this year. Adjectives tumbled from Étienne during the tasting: seductive and precise, glamorous, graphite and saline, luminous and suave. We both agreed we rather liked “resonant”. Volumes are up 50 percent but Étienne warned us that the run of short vintages has depleted their reserves, and  as such allocations this year will not  move up in line.

Ben has made this monopole wine since 2006. The vineyard is almost in the middle of the village and the wine is ebulliently cherry-fruited. Ben adds some polish (using a third whole-bunch this year). This is quite a major wine for Ben, with 13 and a half barrels this year. Drink 2022-2027.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

These are David’s oldest vines, with two parcels planted in 1947 and 1943, on red clay and decomposed granite respectively. The slightly younger plot is Premier Cru land and makes up 45 percent of the blend. Vivid ruby in colour, the crunchy red-berry fruit mingles with chalky tannins to produce a very drinkable wine. Drink 2019-2023.


David began picking on 7th September for his Pinot Noir, pointing out that while this was the same date as in 2015, the two vintages have contrasting profiles. David used the word digeste to describe the 2017s, suggesting these are wines which will have you reaching for the next glass. The character of the vintage is one of freshness, purity, bright red fruit and floral notes, a combination which marries perfectly with Davids precise and confident winemaking style.

Half of the vines for this cuvée suffer from court noué (fanleaf virus), which reduces the yield and causes millerandage; small berries which make concentrated wines. The nose offers subtle spice notes while the palate gives richness and density with some darker fruit flavours and rocky grip. Drink 2020-2024


David began picking on 7th September for his Pinot Noir, pointing out that while this was the same date as in 2015, the two vintages have contrasting profiles. David used the word digeste to describe the 2017s, suggesting these are wines which will have you reaching for the next glass. The character of the vintage is one of freshness, purity, bright red fruit and floral notes, a combination which marries perfectly with Davids precise and confident winemaking style.

One of the outstanding vineyards of the Santenay appellation, Clos Rousseau produces deep-coloured and powerful wines. David’s 2017 has an intense and sweetly spiced perfume with some floral touches courtesy of the inclusion of a good proportion of stems. The palate delivers rich, dense fruit which envelops the firm, chalky tannins. Drink 2020-2025.

David began picking on 7th September for his Pinot Noir, pointing out that while this was the same date as in 2015, the two vintages have contrasting profiles. David used the word digeste to describe the 2017s, suggesting these are wines which will have you reaching for the next glass. The character of the vintage is one of freshness, purity, bright red fruit and floral notes,  a combination which marries perfectly  with David’s precise and confident winemaking style

This is from young vines which come from cuttings of old Pinot Fin taken from the Clos des Epeneaux around 20 years ago. The class of the plant material shows on the nose, which is packed with pretty red berries. The palate is nice and juicy, with lots of ripe strawberry and cherry fruit, and chalky tannins. Drink 2019-2024.

Olivier is taking many steps to counteract the warmer summers and earlier harvests; managing the canopy to protect grapes from sunburn, using late-ripening rootstocks, reducing the amount of new oak he uses to keep the wines feeling fresher, and bringing harvest dates forward to retain acidity. The 2017 crop is around 15 percent down due to the dry summer which stressed the grapes. Picking began on 27th August and Olivier feels the wines are a little richer than 2016, but still with very good balance and well-integrated oak.

There are 20 barrels in 2017 of this utterly delightful, exuberant expression of Pinot Noir. Jean-Yves has removed all of Rully’s rusticity with some subtle, intuitive winemaking; colour and fruit mostly come from infusion, not extraction. The vines are 40 years old, and 100 percent whole-bunch gives a lovely succulence. Drink 2019-2023.

It was a “normal” harvest here this year which, in Jean-Yves’s world, is still a relatively paltry 30hl/ha, due to his scrupulous organic and biodynamic vineyard management. Jean-Yves is increasingly interested in the role and importance of sulphur dioxide in a wine’s evolution. He found that a trial bottling made without SO2 had little expression of the vineyard, yet he finds that adding SO2 too early in the winemaking process makes the wines more fragile and prone to oxidation. A fine range from a reflective winemake

This wine is made without sulphur during vinification with the intention of giving pleasure when young. Made with 50 percent whole bunches, this has a vivid purple colour, voluptuous fruit and a spicy finish which offers some chalky structure, suggesting it should keep for a few years. Drink 2019-2022.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.

The Clos de la Perrière is one of the outstanding sites of the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, facing south on stony and shallow soil. The nose has a lovely, lifted perfume which leads on to a textured palate packed with pure red-cherry fruit and dense tannins. This will truly hit its stride with a few years in bottle. Drink 2020-2024.

A short tour of one of Sébastien Magnien’s vineyards tells all you need to know about his philosophy; each vine is perfectly manicured, with not a leaf out of place.  This attention to detail is reflected in his wines, which are precise, steely and mineral. Sébastien’s choice of picking date is guided by acidity rather than sugar levels, putting the emphasis on freshness. He declared himself very happy with 2017, comparing the white wines to 2014 but with perhaps a touch more flavour ripeness, and praising the accessible, moreish character of the reds.

While officially a village wine, Sébastien’s vines are  at the top of this vineyard, touching the Premier Cru of Ronceret. This wine offers excellent Volnay typicity, with bright red-cherry fruit and violets on the nose and a fine, ethereal palate resplendent with succulent strawberry and silky tannins. Drink 2020-2025.

A short tour of one of Sébastien Magnien’s vineyards tells all you need to know about his philosophy; each vine is perfectly manicured, with not a leaf out of place.  This attention to detail is reflected in his wines, which are precise, steely and mineral. Sébastien’s choice of picking date is guided by acidity rather than sugar levels, putting the emphasis on freshness. He declared himself very happy with 2017, comparing the white wines to 2014 but with perhaps a touch more flavour ripeness, and praising the accessible, moreish character of the reds.

This is a sunny, south-facing location which is situated at a relatively high 300 metres’ altitude and subject to cooling winds. These elements combine to give aromas of perfectly ripe red and black cherry fruit intertwined with lifted, floral aromas and sweet spice. Initially fleshy, the palate finishes with fresh, chalky tannins and vivacious acidity. Drink 2021-2027.

A short tour of one of Sébastien Magnien’s vineyards tells all you need to know about his philosophy; each vine is perfectly manicured, with not a leaf out of place.  This attention to detail is reflected in his wines, which are precise, steely and mineral. Sébastien’s choice of picking date is guided by acidity rather than sugar levels, putting the emphasis on freshness. He declared himself very happy with 2017, comparing the white wines to 2014 but with perhaps a touch more flavour ripeness, and praising the accessible, moreish character of the reds.

For Dominique, this is the best vineyard in Beaune. A wonderful combination of elegance and richness, there is an initial concentration of dense berry fruit, which segues into velvet tannins and a crisp, palate-cleansing finish. A very sensual and seductive expression of Beaune. Drink 2022-2028.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

This parcel of old vines is situated at the top of the vineyard, alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches.  The aromas are of red and black fruit, with some  spice adding complexity. On the palate, it is all  cherry, with real richness, plenty of power and chalky but ripe tannins. The finish is creamy and floral. Drink 2022-2027.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

This is a speical site, at 300 metres’ altitude and on a 20 percent gradient, facing east. The nose has lifted cranberry fruit and a wild edge. The palate has a vibrant energy, lots of rocky limestone tannins and bright, fresh raspberry fruit. A purists’ wine, in the best possible sense. Drink 2022-2028.

David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.

The village elements come from La Gigotte and Les Grands Champs, both vineyards with village and Premier Cru classification, and 40 percent of the blend is young vines from the Premier Cru Volnay-Santenots. This has lovely transparency but also lovely length; impressive. Drink 2020-2024

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

The most northerly Premier Cru of Gevrey, the vineyard is both high and east-facing. This lends the bouquet a mouth-watering note of crushed berry and the palate a certain severity, leading to pinpointed fruit and sculpted tannins. One to keep. Drink 2023-2029.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

The fruit here comes from Maizières-Basses and some Les Violettes to the north of the appellation (actually in Flagey) and Raviolles at the southern end, bordered south and west by Nuits-St Georges. The contrasting styles combine for a textbook Vosne, suave and rich, abetted by 50 percent whole-bunch. Drink 2020-2024.

From 60-year-old vines, this is a powerful and complex Corton. The nose is ferrous and spicy, while the palate is rich, concentrated and dense, with a spine-tingling minerality thanks to the hard limestone subsoil. This is somewhat backward now but will evolve into a beautiful wine with time. Drink 2025-2032.

David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.

This is deliciously moreish, with sweet strawberry fruit and cranberry bite for lift. The final blend will also include some wine aged in large foudre, which adds a heartier, richer texture and rounds out the wine. Simple but not one-dimensional. Drink 2019-2023.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap

The trend towards earlier harvests brings these often stern wines more firmly into the frame and there are only 5.2 hectares of Pinot to be found. This is something of a mission for Ben, who strongly believes in their quality. A cool, dry, distinctively sapid wine. Drink 2022-2027.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

Rugiens is arguably Pommard’s greatest vineyard, of which the lower section is perhaps the finest, but Ben’s plot is in the lower part of Rugiens-Hauts and thus very adjacent. This is a big, stern and meaty wine, with dense tannins, but perfume and rigour too. Very serious and age-worthy. Drink 2025-2030.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap

This is a blend of the Volnay Bourgogne lieu-dit Les Longbois – an historic De Montille parcel – and two parcels around Puligny. Brian reduced the new oak to five percent and de-stemmed the whole crop to preserve the fruit character. It’s a resounding success, offering succulent and crunchy red berry fruit with pleasing finesse. Drink 2019-2023.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.

Made with two-thirds whole-bunch and a slightly reduced 40 percent new oak to preserve fruit character, the 2017 Thorey has a classy nose of violets and rose petals, with red fruit rather than black on the palate. This site is particularly high in limestone, giving chalky freshness and a cleansing finish, a structure that Brian finds almost unique in the Côte de Nuits. Drink 2021-2026.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.

Champans tends to give wines that are more dense and textural than the stereotypical Volnay, but Brian succeeds here in softening some of those rough edges without losing the site’s individuality. High-toned and perfumed with rich, bright red fruit, the nose is appealing. The palate is broad with some powdery tannins and a floral touch thanks to one-third wholebunch. Drink 2021-2026.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.