2015 Beaujolais

WOW! Or should that be WAW (What A Wine!)? 2015 was lauded as a great vintage in Beaujolais, producing wines of tremendous concentration which, in most cases, will benefit from lengthy cellaring. Olivier’s superb La Rochelle is bound to age well – as it always does – but isn’t necessarily typical of the vintage: tasting this wine, finesse is the first descriptor that comes to mind, rather than concentration or power. It’s positively aérien, with red fruit and floral notes to the fore. Olivier has gradually reduced the amount of new oak on this cuvée, and that seems a wise decision.
La Rochelle is an extraordinary vineyard for numerous reasons. Its eighty-year old vines are planted at a density of 12,000 per hectare (10,000 gives one metre between each vine). The granite bedrock lies close enough to the surface to peak through in places. The consequences for us, the lucky drinkers, include a pronounced mineral character to wine. In a warm vintage like 2015, it renders La Rochelle reminiscent of something from the Northern Rhône – let’s not forget, Moulin à Vent is, geographically, much closer to Côte-Rôtie than the Côte d’Or.
In short, this is a cheerful, supremely enjoyable wine, with a rare degree of complexity and serious capacity to develop over the next decade and beyond.
Will Heslop, Buyer. Berry Bros. & Rudd

For proof positive of the capacity of Beaujolais to supply world class wines at an affordable price, look no further than Château Thivin, in Côte de Brouilly. Sept vignes is, ostensibly, the domaine’s most “basic” cuvée, but it shows remarkable complexity and finesse, and will continue to improve over the next decade (and perhaps beyond). It is sourced from seven parcels, with a variety of aspects and soils – mostly blue and pink granite – around the volcanic hill of Brouilly. Approximately a third of the grapes in this cuvée are de-stemmed.
The nose combines flamboyant aromas of strawberry compote, blueberry and more subtle savoury notes, which will become more distinct with the passing years.
The theme of cheerful red and blue fruit continues on the palate. This is riper and less austere than, say, the cuvée Godefroy, but has the same beguiling saline character to the finish.
Try it with carpaccio or tartare de bœuf.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer