2017 White Burgundy

This is another brilliantly crafted wine from this gem of a domaine, which sits almost in the shadow of the twin escarpments of Solutré and Vergisson. Le Clos is ripe and round rather than rich, with crunchy green-apple acidity that’ll have you reaching for another glass. It is raised entirely in stainless steel, with a modest amount of lees stirring (bâtonnage) for weight and complexity. Great with roast chicken or, frankly, whatever you’re having for dinner tonight. Ready to drink now.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2018)

Two-thirds raised in foudre with the remainder in large barrels, this is a standout cuvée in warmer vintages such as 2017. There is gorgeous stone-fruit on the nose and palate, along with sizzling energy and tension. The finish has a pleasant citrus bitterness and a touch of toast. Drink 2019-2022.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

Located at the foot of the north side of the Roche de Vergisson, this is a cool site which has come into its own in recent warm vintages. Young vines give plenty of energy and fruit, while the finish is fresh and crystalline. Half the wine had no sulphur added before bottling. Drink 2019-2023.

The Bret brothers described 2017 as another warm and early vintage, with harvest beginning on the 26th August. They picked early compared to many of their peers, Jean-Philippe explaining that maturity came very quickly. Their decision to bring the grapes in quickly, along with their organic and biodynamic viticulture, has resulted in wonderfully fresh wines. In the cellar they are experimenting with lower levels of sulphur during the winemaking process, with the aim of obtaining full fruit and terroir expression in their wines.

The Maranches vineyard has a significant proportion of old Chardonnay Muscaté vines, a variety which provides a floral note to the fruit. This gives a perfume to the nose and a spicy, peachy feel to the palate, while the old vines resisted the drought stress and provide a balancing tension. Drink 2019-2022.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

The warmest part of this early-ripening vineyard was the second to be picked, to preserve freshness. The nose has a charming oyster-shell reduction reminiscent of Chablis, a mineral thread which runs through the wine. There is good fruit weight and a precise finish, very elegant. Drink 2019-2022.

Two-thirds of this is raised in demi-muids, one-third in a small foudre. This really shines in 2017, seemingly unaffected by the vintage and – as always – giving a tangy, nervy and mineral expression of the Mâconnais. With remarkable freshness and precision, it’s very long too. Drink 2020-2025.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

The Brets took on these vines in 2016, but they were so badly hailed that it produced a tiny crop. It is a long parcel, so ripens in stages and has to be picked in successive tries. Raised 50-50 in tank and barrel, the 2017 displays plenty of ripe fruit, a floral complexity and a crisp, citrus finish which radiates from the midpalate. Drink 2020-2025.

The Bret brothers described 2017 as another warm and early vintage, with harvest beginning on the 26th August. They picked early compared to many of their peers, Jean-Philippe explaining that maturity came very quickly. Their decision to bring the grapes in quickly, along with their organic and biodynamic viticulture, has resulted in wonderfully fresh wines. In the cellar they are experimenting with lower levels of sulphur during the winemaking process, with the aim of obtaining full fruit and terroir expression in their wines.

This wine includes a new parcel which came as part of a deal with the Bret Brothers to jointly manage another estate. These old vines at higher altitude give the wine more freshness and complexity. The nose is opulent and expressive with white flowers. The palate has some rich orange fruit, but there is plenty of tension which keeps things balanced. Drink 2020-2025.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

This southeast-facing vineyard is an extension of Les Quarts but has deeper soil, giving earlier-ripening vines and thus a richer profile to accompany the crisp, clean and floral style of Vinzelles. Plenty of mid-palate weight and a pleasing grip on the finish suggest great potential. Drink 2020-2026.

The Bret brothers described 2017 as another warm and early vintage, with harvest beginning on the 26th August. They picked early compared to many of their peers, Jean-Philippe explaining that maturity came very quickly. Their decision to bring the grapes in quickly, along with their organic and biodynamic viticulture, has resulted in wonderfully fresh wines. In the cellar they are experimenting with lower levels of sulphur during the winemaking process, with the aim of obtaining full fruit and terroir expression in their wines.

This vineyard’s cool location on top of the Roche de Vergisson, facing east, means it is always an elegant and fresh expression of Pouilly-Fuissé. The nose has spicy oak and smoky reduction, leading into a citrus palate which has a youthful bitterness that leaves you wanting another sip. Drink 2020-2025.

The Bret brothers described 2017 as another warm and early vintage, with harvest beginning on the 26th August. They picked early compared to many of their peers, Jean-Philippe explaining that maturity came very quickly. Their decision to bring the grapes in quickly, along with their organic and biodynamic viticulture, has resulted in wonderfully fresh wines. In the cellar they are experimenting with lower levels of sulphur during the winemaking process, with the aim of obtaining full fruit and terroir expression in their wines.

From vines aged over 80 years old and located in the mid-slope sweet spot of this beautiful vineyard, this is delightfully balanced. The perfect weight of fresh fruit sits alongside vibrant energy and purity that gives a spine-tingling finish. An outstanding wine with poise, grace and verve. Drink 2020-2027.

The Bret brothers described 2017 as another warm and early vintage, with harvest beginning on the 26th August. They picked early compared to many of their peers, Jean-Philippe explaining that maturity came very quickly. Their decision to bring the grapes in quickly, along with their organic and biodynamic viticulture, has resulted in wonderfully fresh wines. In the cellar they are experimenting with lower levels of sulphur during the winemaking process, with the aim of obtaining full fruit and terroir expression in their wines.

Olivier Leflaive took over management of the  vineyard in 2016, a site and wine which elicits genuine excitement from Franck. The walled vineyard is situated in the village on heavier soil, which provides classic Meursault breadth, while the Leflaive style ensures that the finish is mineral and precise. Welljudged oak adds some toast and grip. Drink 2022-2027.

After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power. 

Franck emphasised the importance of removing excess shoots and buds on the vine early in the season to ensure yields did not become excessive, a practice he encouraged his growers to follow. The results are evident in the wines, which display wonderful concentration and texture, generosity in the mid-palate, precise, direct fruit and a sapid acidity. The excellent natural balance of the wines made vinification relatively straightforward and has yielded wines which Franck describes as “serious” and, in many respects, comparable to the 2014s. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

A blend of 35 different vineyards, this is arguably the most complete expression of Puligny-Montrachet you could wish for. A third of the vines are owned by the estate and slightly more managed by their team. The nose has wisps of smoke and floral top notes, while the palate is lacy, with pleasing weight on the mid-palate and a sizzling, saline finish. Drink 2022-2027.

After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power.

Franck emphasised the importance of removing excess shoots and buds on the vine early in the season to ensure yields did not become excessive, a practice he encouraged his growers to follow. The results are evident in the wines, which display wonderful concentration and texture, generosity in the mid-palate, precise, direct fruit and a sapid acidity. The excellent natural balance of the wines made vinification relatively straightforward and has yielded wines which Franck describes as “serious” and, in many respects, comparable to the 2014s. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

This is from a sub-section of Les Vergers, planted with 25-year-old vines. This is classic and intensely mineral Chassagne. Yellow peach and flint aromas jostle for attention while the palate has impressive concentration and weight, with hot stone minerals adding complexity and satisfying dry extract prolonging the finish. Drink 2023-2029

After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power.

Franck emphasised the importance of removing excess shoots and buds on the vine early in the season to ensure yields did not become excessive, a practice he encouraged his growers to follow. The results are evident in the wines, which display wonderful concentration and texture, generosity in the mid-palate, precise, direct fruit and a sapid acidity. The excellent natural balance of the wines made vinification relatively straightforward and has yielded wines which Franck describes as “serious” and, in many respects, comparable to the 2014s. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

The higher-altitude location in Blagny always ensures this wine retains freshness, while the red soil adds some mid-palate weight. The 2017 is energetic, zingy and pure. Its dryness and precision are hugely impressive, giving the feeling the wine has been stretched out to give an incredibly tight profile. A wonderful expression of a wonderful vineyard site. Drink 2023-2030.


After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power.


Franck emphasised the importance of removing excess shoots and buds on the vine early in the season to ensure yields did not become excessive, a practice he encouraged his growers to follow. The results are evident in the wines, which display wonderful concentration and texture, generosity in the mid-palate, precise, direct fruit and a sapid acidity. The excellent natural balance of the wines made vinification relatively straightforward and has yielded wines which Franck describes as serious and, in many respects, comparable to the 2014s. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

The special cuvée – bottled for us exclusively in magnums – comes from a few rows of vines which produce tiny, ultra-concentrated grapes. There is a lovely touch of reduction on the nose and a constantly changing array of aromas. The palate is concentrated with weighty fruit, buzzing energy and tons of dry extract. Wow. Drink 2021-2030.

The Bret brothers described 2017 as another warm and early vintage, with harvest beginning on the 26th August. They picked early compared to many of their peers, Jean-Philippe explaining that maturity came very quickly. Their decision to bring the grapes in quickly, along with their organic and biodynamic viticulture, has resulted in wonderfully fresh wines. In the cellar they are experimenting with lower levels of sulphur during the winemaking process, with the aim of obtaining full fruit and terroir expression in their wines.

A likely Premier Cru vineyard, Au Vignerais is cool at 350 metres’ altitude, but the shallow soils and sunny exposition give both freshness and richness. Ripe yellow apples give a fresh front to the palate, which broadens out into oily spice then finishes on a tensile, saline note. Drink 2020-2026.

The Bret brothers described 2017 as another warm and early vintage, with harvest beginning on the 26th August. They picked early compared to many of their peers, Jean-Philippe explaining that maturity came very quickly. Their decision to bring the grapes in quickly, along with their organic and biodynamic viticulture, has resulted in wonderfully fresh wines. In the cellar they are experimenting with lower levels of sulphur during the winemaking process, with the aim of obtaining full fruit and terroir expression in their wines.

In 2017 this vineyard was harvested on seven different dates to ensure optimum ripeness. The nose has a touch of the exotic, but with more restraint than in the past. The palate has a salty freshness running through, with saline, iodine notes accompanying the powerful structure and a chewy finish with plenty of dry extract. Dominique thinks it’s the best Viré he has made. Drink 2020-2026.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.