2014 Chablis

This comes from vines that run from top to bottom of Chapelots. Palish in colour with broad shoulders, this is not too rich and sunny but is magnificently complete, with excellent balancing acidity. It’s a marvel in the mouth with waves of different fruits, especially plums. Exceptional quality.

This is an outstanding range of wines from Guillaume, the best we have seen here. The season got off to a difficult start with a touch of frost followed by a Whitsun heatwave, which restricted the flowering. After a normal June, a very wet July encumbered work in the vineyards, then the weather cheered up at the end of the season. The Michels harvested from 17th September through to 1st October because of different ripeness levels, stopping in the middle. Clearly this attention to detail paid off in the end. The wines are hand-picked and fermented in stainless steel using natural yeasts.

With a pale colour, this has a nose that suggests a wine of great potential power. It shows all the majesty of Les Clos, and the fruit is usefully supported by a touch of oak. Full and fine, with great grace and depth of fruit, this is exceptionally long. It clearly needs much more time though.

Laurent Pinson is happy to report better volumes than in recent vintages, and more typical Chablis in style. The grapes ripened nicely yet retained very good acidity. The crop was picked by hand in good weather, and fermented with natural yeasts. The crus are all barrel-aged, with a small proportion being barrel fermented. As usual, we see not just great quality but also excellent value for money at this estate.

This wine offers a fascinating contrast to Montée de Tonnerre. It is very pure, intense, with greener fruit, a fine-boned intensity, and very tightly knit. Oyster shells are lurking in the background, along with a slightly monastic austerity. It will blossom with maturity.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

The Grand Cru Bougros would have an outstanding reputation if all the vineyards were on the incredibly steep Côte Bouguerots. The wine has a character all of its own: electric, linear and extraordinarily intense. The flavours are based around white fruit, the minerals more stony than marine in style, and the persistence makes clear that this is a great wine for the long term.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

The hallmark of this wine is a gracious elegance, a seamless texture and a feeling of serenity. White fruit and minerality combine effortlessly on a scale which is clearly Grand Cru. It offers more harmony but less electricity than Côte Bouguerots for example.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

A combination of all the above Grands Crus, only more so: Les Clos manages to be the most powerful wine, with the greatest concentration of fruit, yet retaining a driving elegance throughout. Minerals abound, and the finish shows extraordinary persistence.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

A glorious, pale, bright appearance, with dense white fruit – not overtly juicy but with a great deal in reserve. There’s enormous weight behind this, with some fresh pear notes, and cashmere-like texture alongside the austerity of youth.

The third vintage at Domaine d’Henri is the best to date, and so they make their debut in our en primeur brochure. The grapes were hand picked between the 17th and 25th September, a long enough window to allow each plot to reach the desired degree of ripeness, and the wines have seen about 25 percent barrel-ageing. They will not be bottled until the spring.

Pretty marine nose, incisive, chiselled Chablis. There is real tension here, with beautiful pure white fruit, medium bodied, with good length. Absolutely classic for Chablis. The finish is the best bit: amazing how this builds.
Drink 2016-2020.

Fine bright primrose, showing a graceful touch of the wood along with the really concentrated, plummy fruit as well. The most significant aspect is the amazing persistence threaded through with impeccable acidity.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Laurent Pinson is happy to report better volumes than in recent vintages, and more typical Chablis in style. The grapes ripened nicely yet retained very good acidity. The crop was picked by hand in good weather, and fermented with natural yeasts. The crus are all barrel-aged, with a small proportion being barrel fermented. As usual, we see not just great quality but also excellent value for money at this estate.

From 100 percent domaine fruit made up of two plots on either side of the valley, this is vinified and matured in older barrels. Fine, pure and pale in colour, this has the faintest touch of coconut yet is pure, fine and complex. A few lemongrass notes, and a strong sense of marine minerals – this is long and lovely.

Though the viticulture predates the return of his vineyards, Samuel got into his own vines just before the harvest and has thus been able to vinify a larger range than before. So when we visited he was much happier all round, especially with an excellent 2014 harvest in his cellar: healthy grapes and correct yields between 40hl/ha for Grand Cru and 55hl/ha for Chablis.

Showing a slightly more expressive nose than the 1ers crus, Bessin’s grand cru Valmur boasts a huge density of fruit, magical and concentrated, really very stylish indeed,  with a very long finish. This is one of the finest wines he has ever produced from the vineyard and will last (the 2002 is still on excellent form in July 2016).
Drink 2020-2030.

Part of the success of this cuveé is because William Fèvre has parcels on both sides of the Vaudésir amphitheatre, making a tightly controlled wine which, as it matures will display both mineral elegance and power. For now, there are tightly wound white fruits, a herbal intensity and the promise of a great deal more to come.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.