2014 Chablis

The 2014 Montée de Tonnerre offers a glorious mouthful of fruit, with peaches and yellow plums. It is amazing how opulent this wine can be without losing any of its Chablis qualities. It deserves more than Premier Cru status.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

This comes from vines that run from top to bottom of Chapelots. Palish in colour with broad shoulders, this is not too rich and sunny but is magnificently complete, with excellent balancing acidity. It’s a marvel in the mouth with waves of different fruits, especially plums. Exceptional quality.

This is an outstanding range of wines from Guillaume, the best we have seen here. The season got off to a difficult start with a touch of frost followed by a Whitsun heatwave, which restricted the flowering. After a normal June, a very wet July encumbered work in the vineyards, then the weather cheered up at the end of the season. The Michels harvested from 17th September through to 1st October because of different ripeness levels, stopping in the middle. Clearly this attention to detail paid off in the end. The wines are hand-picked and fermented in stainless steel using natural yeasts.

Part of the success of this cuveé is because William Fèvre has parcels on both sides of the Vaudésir amphitheatre, making a tightly controlled wine which, as it matures will display both mineral elegance and power. For now, there are tightly wound white fruits, a herbal intensity and the promise of a great deal more to come.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

For his second vintage of this wine, Benoît has cut back on the oak. This is pale in colour, and clearly shows ripe fruit, weight and spice. It’s not just the weight that impresses, but the sense of precision and depth of fruit. It is a really classy wine, with abundant minerals and a touch of spice.

The vineyards near to Chablis itself were affected by the heat at Whitsun, which damaged the flowering, so the quantity of wine is no better than last year. Outlying communes, however, were less impacted. Benoît began the harvest early, on 11th September. He compares 2014 to 1996, 2007 (only richer) and 2010 (only more mineral). A recent development here is for the wines to be fermented using their own indigenous yeasts.

The Grand Cru Bougros would have an outstanding reputation if all the vineyards were on the incredibly steep Côte Bouguerots. The wine has a character all of its own: electric, linear and extraordinarily intense. The flavours are based around white fruit, the minerals more stony than marine in style, and the persistence makes clear that this is a great wine for the long term.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

The hallmark of this wine is a gracious elegance, a seamless texture and a feeling of serenity. White fruit and minerality combine effortlessly on a scale which is clearly Grand Cru. It offers more harmony but less electricity than Côte Bouguerots for example.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

A glorious, pale, bright appearance, with dense white fruit – not overtly juicy but with a great deal in reserve. There’s enormous weight behind this, with some fresh pear notes, and cashmere-like texture alongside the austerity of youth.

The third vintage at Domaine d’Henri is the best to date, and so they make their debut in our en primeur brochure. The grapes were hand picked between the 17th and 25th September, a long enough window to allow each plot to reach the desired degree of ripeness, and the wines have seen about 25 percent barrel-ageing. They will not be bottled until the spring.

Showing a slightly more expressive nose than the 1ers crus, Bessin’s grand cru Valmur boasts a huge density of fruit, magical and concentrated, really very stylish indeed,  with a very long finish. This is one of the finest wines he has ever produced from the vineyard and will last (the 2002 is still on excellent form in July 2016).
Drink 2020-2030.

From a blend of purchased grapes and domaine fruit, this offers an utterly brilliant nose, just the faintest coconut adds complexity. On the palate, there’s a huge mouthful of white fruit and great tension with just a touch of wood nicely integrated at the back. Potentially a great wine when it grows up; the persistence is astonishing.

Though the viticulture predates the return of his vineyards, Samuel got into his own vines just before the harvest and has thus been able to vinify a larger range than before. So when we visited he was much happier all round, especially with an excellent 2014 harvest in his cellar: healthy grapes and correct yields between 40hl/ha for Grand Cru and 55hl/ha for Chablis.

A combination of all the above Grands Crus, only more so: Les Clos manages to be the most powerful wine, with the greatest concentration of fruit, yet retaining a driving elegance throughout. Minerals abound, and the finish shows extraordinary persistence.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

Although made in a mix of new, one- and two-year-old barrels, the oak does not show. This is a really good wine with fruit to the fore, superb volume and great style. It has magical power through the middle and a tiny note of lemon balm on top of vivid bright fruit. It is very long and persistent.

Laurent Pinson is happy to report better volumes than in recent vintages, and more typical Chablis in style. The grapes ripened nicely yet retained very good acidity. The crop was picked by hand in good weather, and fermented with natural yeasts. The crus are all barrel-aged, with a small proportion being barrel fermented. As usual, we see not just great quality but also excellent value for money at this estate.