2016 Chablis

The fruit for the cuvée Saint Pierre (named after a church in the town of Chablis) hails from prized parcels in the lieu-dit of Les Chaumes, in Maligny. The soil here is relatively rich in clay, resulting in a more concentrated, age-worthy wine than most village Chablis. It is raised primarily in stainless steel, but around 10% is aged in used oak barrels. Expect classic aromas of zested lemons and crushed oyster shell, leading to a palate that’s medium-full yet fresh and energetic. A natural accompaniment to shellfish, this also works well with all manner of white meat dishes. Drink now to 2024.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

This is an exceptionally concentrated, relatively full-bodied village Chablis, from vines a minimum of 40 years old. One quarter of the blend is raised in used oak. There’s a hint of stone-fruit on the nose, as well as classic aromas of citrus and sea air – that saline thread persisting right to the end of the long, fresh finish. Drink now to 2026.
Will Heslop , Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)

Mont-de-Milieu is the Pinson family’s largest holding of the Premiers Crus and consequently something of a flagship wine. The nose shows a little of its oak élevage at present, along with subtle wafts of noble reduction. There is a wonderful concentration of fruit, beautifully intertwined with cool, marine notes. A harmonious wine with great finesse and elegance. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The legendary Louis Pinson himself retired in 1983, having made some fabulous oldstyle Chablis. His great-grand-daughter, Charlène, along with her father Laurent and her uncle Christophe are now in charge. There is a Rue Pinson in Chablis, dating back to an earlier generation when three Pinson brothers lived in identical houses on the street. Everything is hand-harvested, with sorting of the grapes both in the vineyard and at the winery. The wines are wild-fermented, mostly in stainless steel tanks, before barrel ageing, with the proportion of oak depending on the cuvée. Despite describing 2016 as a testing year, Laurent Pinson and his daughter Charlène are upbeat, declaring themselves very happy with the quality of the grapes and resultant wines. Volumes are down in many cases, and the limited-production Cuvée Mademoiselle has not been made this year.

Redolent of oyster shells and with a hint of reduction – that he attributes to terroir rather than winemaking, Didier’s 2016 Vosgros is a knockout. A cool breeze means the vines here ripen relatively slowly, but they face southwest so see plenty of sun. This wine’s round, ripe, sunny side will reveal itself with another year or two in bottle – and may even fool you into thinking it’s barrel-aged (in fact it’s raised exclusively in stainless steel). Drink now to 2023.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

Romain uses a touch more oak than his father, but there’s a clear parallel in styles between this and the domaine wines: Romain’s Vaillons is creamy and rounded, yet mineral, with a late wave of citrus and iodine following the initial hit of stone-fruit and spice. It’s made from the fruit of 50-year-old vines, to which Romain attributes its impressive concentration. Drink now to 2027.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)

After a hiatus in 2015, we are pleased to welcome this back to the range. Raised entirely in stainless steel to preserve the freshness of this south-facing vineyard, this is the most open of the Premiers Crus. The warmth of the exposition shines through with pleasant yellow fruit notes, while the steep, stony slope contributes a chalkiness to the finish. Very transparent. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The brilliantly talented Samuel Billaud was finding family politics hard going, so he founded his own wine label in Chablis separate from Domaine Billaud-Simon. However with the sale of Domaine Billaud- Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel has got back a proportion of the vineyards for himself. Whether from domaine sources or purchased grapes, Samuel Billaud’s wines demonstrate his exceptional talent. Samuel feels that 2016 is very close in style to the outstanding 2014 vintage, and says that the concentrating effect of hail and frost early in the season, along with the cool ripening period has given a good balance of matière and acidity. This is a very promising set of wines which will gain in weight and complexity with élevage . Samuel is undoubtedly making some of the finest wines in Chablis.

A wine which draws you in from the first whiff of oyster shell, there is a wonderful concentration of yellow fruit here, with plenty of power and energy. It is dense and weighty but not remotely heavy, thanks to the fine core of acidity. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This domaine, based in the heart of Chablis, dates back to 1850. Prior to 1970 all the wines were fermented and matured in old oak barrels; by 1980 the old oak had been thrown out and the domaine had switched entirely to stainless steel. Today, it is run by Guillaume Gicqueteau-Michel and comprises 25 hectares of vineyards, mainly Premier and Grand Cru. It remains the byword for unoaked Chablis. Once again quantities are very small this year; in fact, 2016 is the smallest vintage Guillaume has ever made. As a longstanding customer, we have been looked after, however, with only the Clos and Grenouilles significantly down on 2015 volumes. Guillaume feels that this is a classic vintage for Chablis, and one which allows each individual terroir to shine through clearly. Despite the challenges of the vintage, this is an excellent range of wines which display great typicity.

Jean-Claude was thrilled with the quality of fruit harvested in Fourchaume in 2016 – and there’s tremendous energy and purity to this cuvée. He describes it as “supple, without being fat”, which is to say it’s medium- to full-bodied, and less mineral than, say, his Valmur. The nose is open and expressive, with aromas including tropical fruit and orange blossom, but there’s ample acidity to keep the whole thing fresh and focused. Drink now to 2028.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)

From two parcels between 30 and 45 years old, 20 percent was raised in 450-litre oak barrels. It has a lovely, crystalline, lemon nose with a breezy seashell lift. The palate has greater sucrosity and riper peach fruit, along with an alluring creamy, leesy finish. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer


The brilliantly talented Samuel Billaud was finding family politics hard going, so he founded his own wine label in Chablis separate from Domaine Billaud-Simon. However with the sale of Domaine Billaud- Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel has got back a proportion of the vineyards for himself. Whether from domaine sources or purchased grapes, Samuel Billaud’s wines demonstrate his exceptional talent. Samuel feels that 2016 is very close in style to the outstanding 2014 vintage, and says that the concentrating effect of hail and frost early in the season, along with the cool ripening period has given a good balance of matière and acidity. This is a very promising set of wines which will gain in weight and complexity with élevage . Samuel is undoubtedly making some of the finest wines in Chablis.

The slight opulence of the stone fruit and spice aromas almost gives the false impression of oak. This is currently somewhat backward, with an abundance of apricot and spice which is presently disassociated from the fine thread of steely minerality. All of the necessary elements are there to make a fine Vaudésir, and this will reward those with the patience to wait for it to knit together. Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This domaine, based in the heart of Chablis, dates back to 1850. Prior to 1970 all the wines were fermented and matured in old oak barrels; by 1980 the old oak had been thrown out and the domaine had switched entirely to stainless steel. Today, it is run by Guillaume Gicqueteau-Michel and comprises 25 hectares of vineyards, mainly Premier and Grand Cru. It remains the byword for unoaked Chablis. Once again quantities are very small this year; in fact, 2016 is the smallest vintage Guillaume has ever made. As a longstanding customer, we have been looked after, however, with only the Clos and Grenouilles significantly down on 2015 volumes. Guillaume feels that this is a classic vintage for Chablis, and one which allows each individual terroir to shine through clearly. Despite the challenges of the vintage, this is an excellent range of wines which display great typicity.

This has a very classic Chablis nose, combined with white peach and just a hint of oak. Incredible power and persistence, tension and energy; it’s still a baby. Spine-tingling with plenty of chewy phenolic matière; this needs time to knit together, but all of the elements are there in spades. Drink 2025-2037.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This leading Chablis domaine was developed by the eponymous William Fèvre between 1957 and his retirement in 1998 when he sold to the Champagne House Joseph Henriot. Since then the wines have been made by the talented Didier Séguier who had previously been with the Bouchard team in Beaune. The domaine wines include 12 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards and no less than 16 hectares of Grands Crus. Everything is harvested by hand. The Premier Cru wines are vinified in 30 to 50 percent oak, the Grands Crus 50 to 70 percent, all in oneyear-old barrels from Bouchard. Didier Séguier described 2016 as a complicated vintage which was saved by a warm, dry summer and a cool northerly wind just before harvest, allowing the grapes to ripen without achieving high sugar levels. The resultant small grapes have given concentrated wines of great finesse. He feels this is a vintage which will produce wines of good early approachability, while also being interesting to serious Chablis lovers who will appreciate the mineral backbone. Keen to preserve this minerality, Dider has not used any new oak this year.

From just over two hectares planted on the steep slope, facing south-southeast, this is much more restrained than a classic Bougros. There is great persistence and finesse, an undercurrent of power too, but it’s restrained. This is gorgeous, with a pleasing youthful bitterness on the finish. Drink 2024-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This leading Chablis domaine was developed by the eponymous William Fèvre between 1957 and his retirement in 1998 when he sold to the Champagne House Joseph Henriot. Since then the wines have been made by the talented Didier Séguier who had previously been with the Bouchard team in Beaune. The domaine wines include 12 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards and no less than 16 hectares of Grands Crus. Everything is harvested by hand. The Premier Cru wines are vinified in 30 to 50 percent oak, the Grands Crus 50 to 70 percent, all in oneyear-old barrels from Bouchard. Didier Séguier described 2016 as a complicated vintage which was saved by a warm, dry summer and a cool northerly wind just before harvest, allowing the grapes to ripen without achieving high sugar levels. The resultant small grapes have given concentrated wines of great finesse. He feels this is a vintage which will produce wines of good early approachability, while also being interesting to serious Chablis lovers who will appreciate the mineral backbone. Keen to preserve this minerality, Dider has not used any new oak this year.

Fifty percent barrel-fermented, this is – as ever – incredibly complex and tightly wound. Packed with vibrant fruit on the entry, it tightens up with a core of citrus, finishing on notes of hot, flinty stones. Sublime. Drink 2022-2032.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for nearly 400 years (their history as vignerons goes back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the 14th generation, having taken over from his father Jean-Paul. The domaine owns 13 hectares of vineyards and produces 14 different wines, including seven Premiers Crus and five Grands Crus. Benoît runs a sophisticated operation from a large modern winery almost in the shadow of the Grands Crus. He has revised his pruning system and significantly reduced yields; while in the cellar the principal change has been away from new oak. Visiting Benoît Droin in spring 2017 was a sobering affair; row upon row of stainless steel tanks stood empty, their doors hanging open as a stark reminder of the damage caused by the frost and twin hailstorms of the nightmarish 2016 vintage. Despite making just half his normal crop, Benoît remained philosophical and announced himself delighted with the vintage, explaining that he feels there is greater concentration and better balance than the sunnier 2015s. Unfortunately, there is no Fourchaume this year.