Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.

From the excellent 2015 vintage, Native is a blend of concrete-aged Grenache and wood-aged Syrah and Mourvèdre. The Grenache’s silky tannins enrobe a pleasing dark-fruit core, with myrtle and red cherry both in evidence on the palate. Drink now to 2023.

There is more red clay underneath these vines and 85 percent of them are Grenache. The balancing Mourvèdre is grown in a vineyard which is surrounded by the eponymous scrub. The felicitous blend of soils and natural environment brings out the fresher, more linear, side to the Grenache, and is complemented by the sooty, spicy complexity of Mourvèdre. Concentration and firm tannins do not seem to contradict an engaging almost ethereal character that is very typical of this grower. Drink 2018 - 2025. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. Only the legal structure and the location of the winery have changed substantially. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.

Syrah adds polish and floral lift to this outstanding blend of Grenache and Carignan. The blue and red clay terroir of the vineyards is ideally suited to the generous vintage that was 2015. Here we enjoy ripe yet savoury notes, with a backdrop of liquorice and a touch of star anise, garlanded with Mediterranean flowers. Drink 2019-2026. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Escaravailles dates from 1953 and is now in the more than capable hands of Gilles Ferran, who has constructed a new cuverie and built the reputation of the domaine into one of the leading names in the region. The property is located high in the hills behind the villages of Roaix and Rasteau, where the vines enjoy a special microclimate: here it is relatively warm despite the altitude, with exceptional expositions and soils which are dominated by red and blue clay. Escaravaille, for those of an inquisitive disposition, is the Occitane word for beetle (hence the labels) and also the term once used to describe the black-robed monks of the region, presumably from the Benedictine order.

Laurent’s initial anxieties about relatively low levels of acidity in the Grenache have been dispelled over the élevage period. The Vacqueyras is certainly fresh and juicy – its fruit sourced from ten parcels and dominated by the 75 percent of tank-aged Grenache. Approachable and ripe, yet discretely structured, this works very well and can be drunk in relative youth. Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015–a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.

Very well received in the restaurants of London and further afield, Laurent’s Gigondas does not sit at the tarry, rustic and tannic end of the spectrum. Its style is more inverse nostalgia, inclining towards an expression of dark cherry fruit, Asian spice, firm yet fine tannins and a generous mouth-feel. The 2015 excels in all of these areas. Drink 2019-2026. 
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer

Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015 – a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.

This is a wine to convert even those who are not fond of Viognier!
The nose brims with fresh apricot, tangerine peel, white blossom and honey and the palate is lifted by generous floral notes. The wine shows great energy and even a reasonable amount of acidity which this grape variety can so often lack. Rich in body it shows peaches, violets, honeysuckle and fruit salad on the palate making it a delightful accompaniment to a plate of scallops.

Eric normally ages this outstanding Roussanne in concrete vat, but cites 2015 as such a generous vintage that the potential for hints of residual sugar was best addressed by using wood throughout the process.

The result, unsurprisingly, is both powerful and delicious with poached pear, orchard fruit and hints of melted butter all evidenced. Any anxiety at a warm vintage yielding low levels of acidity is countered by a long and resourceful granitic core here, deferential to this very specific enclave and redressing any potential for anonymity offered by the use of oak. Most impressive. Drink now to 2020.

A blend of 80 percent Marsanne and 20 percent Rousanne, the Prestige is beautifully aromatic, with notes of pear-skin and honeysuckle to the fore. The palate has classic Marsanne grip with hints of beeswax and lanolin; and beyond that, a fine, almost saline, minerality which lends a frim structure. Prestigious indeed! Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

The more cerebral of Jean Claude’s two Condrieus, this one fermented half in barrique and half in tank. The wine has pleasing apricot aromatics, a broad texture and a stone fruit profile with hints of spice on the finish. Drink now to 2019.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Of Daniel’s two Pallières cuvées, Les Racines is sourced from lower vineyards than Les Terrasses, but from older vines – nearly 70 years of age in the case of the Grenache, which makes up 90 percent of this cuvée, with the balance made up from Mourvèdre. The surprisingly feminine floral aromas are followed by a fine and elegant palate, with notes of myrtle and liquorice, mocha and forest floor all in evidence. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Cinsault. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

A classic assemblage from vines of up to 50 years of age, this recalls Stéphane’s outstanding 2010, although he places it, stylistically, somewhere between 2010 and the warmer 2009. The wine is a blend from 15 parcels, farmed at differing altitudes, all informed by a steep granitic rigour. It combines rich dark fruit with hints of pepper, charcuterie and liquorice, all fashioned with seductive skill. For those who identify M Robert as an iconoclastic modernist, two comments spring to mind. Firstly, the term modernist is still supremely relative in this village. Secondly, these wines age supremely well and become, if anything, more sui generis with age; that is to say more self-evidently “Cornas”, which is most agreeable! Drink 2022-2028.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

A blend of 95 percent Marsanne and five percent Roussanne is responsible for this superb Paradis Blanc. Lime and chalk rock cede to wax and then honey; tightly constructed, this has impressive matière and a clear head for (the) heights. Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

The amiable double act of Thomas and Maxime will probably not welcome the comparison to Laurel and Hardy, so I shall resist it. Yet for those anthropologists who rejoice in discerning the personality of the author in each piece, the 2015 has the cerebral linear character, which recalls Thomas, but also a full, generous, fruity backdrop, more akin to M Graillot fils. The comparison is ridiculous of course; Thomas likes his wines to listen to Brahms as they are maturing, which does not in any way recall Mr Laurel. Drink now to 2022.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Of the 13 plots which make up this wine, the key ones are Beaurenard in the north-west, Charbonnière on the central Crau plateau and Gallimardes in the south... in other words, this has a richly diverse provenance. The blend is 80 percent Grenache, 10 percent Mourvèdre, seven percent Syrah and three percent Cinsault. The wine displays classic aromas of thyme, sous-bois and macerated plum and an equally classic palate, which is long and unnervingly complex. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, maybe modifying their techniques a little along the way, but not too much. Biodynamic in all but the letter, they are based close to Beaucastel, but their plots, albeit more modest in total surface area, are more widely spaced over the appellation, with the most significant holdings in the areas around Courthézon and on the central Crau plateau. Low yields are key to the exceptional quality of the wines.

Pierre’s purple rose comes not from Cairo, rather from the fruits of old vines on the Côte Brune in the Rozier enclave, which is located behind La Landonne, just to the north of the town of Ampuis. Deep of colour, almost episcopal, appropriately enough, the wine is reserved and restrained at the moment, especially on the nose. In the mouth, however, sheer ripeness and concentration take the lead, held in check only by the firm, stentorian tannins at the back. Drink 2022-2028.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Grenache (75 percent), Cinsault (15 percent), Syrah (five percent) and Mourvèdre (five percent) conspire to pay homage to a significant forebear. More approachable than some of Isabel’s range, the Auguste Favier has a gentle fruity charm, with silky top notes that are seductive and finely orchestrated. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer 

The growing stature of Isabel Ferrando in this large village is bolstered by increasing international accolades, and, maybe even more importantly, by the generosity of the commentaries of her peers. Isabel Ferrando’s vines are mainly located in the southern sector; her modus operandi is fairly traditional with no de-stemming, cement-tank maturation and a taste for délestage (rack and return). Her outlook and temperament, however, fall into the more modern camp, as manifested by the multiplicity of differing cuvées, all, thankfully pleasingly different from each other.

Malleval is maybe better know for St Joseph wines, but also has significant plantings of Viognier. The Combe’s south-facing vines are located at altitude of 300 metres, perched on the edge of a modest eponymous valley. In 2015 the wine is finely textured with honeysuckle, stem ginger and white peach all evidenced, but beyond all that a substratum of minerality in deference. A wine with both literal and metaphorical gravitas. Drink now to 2019.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Garrus, Ch. D’Esclan’s top cuvee, is a serious Rose wine which delivers great complexity and concentration from vines averaging 80 years of age. Pale salmon in colour with an onion skin hue, aromas of wild strawberry, fennel and raspberry leaf mingle with a savoury undertone. A lovely freshness runs across the palate, offset by a gentle creamy texture derived through oak treatment. Concentrated throughout, detailled wild red fruit flavours sit on the mid-palate amidst a gentle spiciness and herbal character. Finishing with profound tension and balance, the 2015 Garrus is testament to the quality of this estate, to be enjoyed from 2017 – 2019.
Chris Lamb - Private Account Manager, March 2017

This is one of the great wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The old vines in question are located over four different plots and four different soil types. Sand, clay, galet and limestone all work together, with over 40 percent of the vines predating 1940. Beguilingly simple winemaking (concrete tank and foudre) does not get in the way of inherent complexity. Christophe waxes lyrical for some time and then, with a gentle smile, suggests accompanying this wine with jugged hare in 12 years’ time. Quite right. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.

What a delightful nose, gushing summer fruits and floral notes fill the glass. I was hoping to mention Suzi Quatro or Bonnie Raitt in my note, but it’s altogether much more elegant and refined than either lady’s reputation, lots going on, on the palate, hints of salinity meld with the ubiquitous raspberry and strawberry notes, perhaps a hint of rhubarb in there as well? Very impressive, long and sophisticated, dry but with perfect balance. My wife’s taking me to see Toyah play an acoustic set in a few weeks’ time, for my birthday, I hope her performance is as graceful and polished as this Rock Angel’s.
Chris Pollington - Private Account Manager

The 2015 is a classic blend of 65 percent Grenache, 15 percent of both Mourvèdre and Syrah, plus five percent of a somewhat anonymous combination from the remainder of the appellation’s generous palette. It is immediately charming, with a perfume of garrigue and laurel, forest floor and eastern spice. The palate underlines the generosity of the vintage, with a lively black fruit charisma held in check by balancing natural acidity and ripe yet finely etched tannins. Symphonic in scope and ageing potential, this is an outstanding Vieux Télégraphe in every way and will sit proudly with all of its most prestigious forbears. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Cinsault. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

La Nerthe have always made well-loved whites, anticipating the current rebirth of the category, not least stylistically. The 2012 white vintage has a little more Clairette than is usual (the final blend, which was bottled in March this year, is made up of 38 percent Roussanne, 28 percent Grenache Blanc, 22 percent Clairette, with the remainder being Bourboulenc) and is less overtly creamy and forward at this stage. This is no bad thing, to my mind, an opinion which is underlined by a fascinating saline flourish on the finish. Drink now to 2022.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

The grandest of all the properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the one closest to actually having a castle, La Nerthe is a virtually contiguous vineyard, with 90 hectares of calcareous and sandy soils located just to the east of the village. With each new vintage they enhance their reputation as one of the leading “classically modern” estates in the region.

One of the most successfully modern manifestations of the potential of this great village, Cuvée des Cadettes is not made every year, but in 2015 it was felt that the ripe and generous fruit would be well suited to new oak. And so it has proved. Architecturally robust, elegantly decorated, this is a powerhouse that will repay lengthy cellaring. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The grandest of all the properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the one closest to actually having a castle, La Nerthe is a virtually contiguous vineyard, with 90 hectares of calcareous and sandy soils located just to the east of the village. With each new vintage they enhance their reputation as one of the leading “classically modern” estates in the region.

La Nerthe has always majored on the fruity side of the Châteauneuf profile. Sometimes, given the venerable vines in situ and the almost perfect cellars, I have hoped for a little more “authenticity” here. Ralph may have previously been making wine for Jaboulet in the North, but this is his most clearly articulated aspiration. One should rejoice in Grenache and garland it in the inevitable complexity offered by the famous palette of varietals, without losing sight of the essential features that elevated the appellation in the first place. The savoury, pleasantly herbal personality of the 2015, sitting perfectly within a dark fruit core, provides a most encouraging expression of this mission statement. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The grandest of all the properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the one closest to actually having a castle, La Nerthe is a virtually contiguous vineyard, with 90 hectares of calcareous and sandy soils located just to the east of the village. With each new vintage they enhance their reputation as one of the leading “classically modern” estates in the region.

The Crau plot at La Roquète is dominated by distinctive, predominantly sandy, soils, which is honoured by Daniel in this suitably distinctive cuvée. Its nomenclature has changed a little over the years, with the common thread being Piedlong – appropriately enough as this is the name of the lieu-dit that provides the majority of the fruit. One can almost taste the Mistral in the sinewy pores of this outstanding effort, with 10 percent Mourvèdre adding a dark soul to this otherwise supremely pure wine, a characteristic Daniel described as “ethereal”. “Rose petals” and “thyme” were the first two words to land on my wine-splattered tasting book. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Cinsault. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

Philippe is very proud of the Demeter accreditation his estate has achieved, which has long been the leading light in this recently elevated Cru. He always has a pleasingly pithy turn of phrase to describe a vintage. Praising both the concentration and tannic harmony of 2015, he adds that it is “more olive than spice” in profile. And so it appears… the ripeness has as its corollary very sweet pips and firm skins, all contributing to an assemblage which is already rounded and soft. Its silky texture quietly supported by a classically ornate balustrade. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.

Cadène is made up of three co-planted and elevated parcels of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, with an average age of over 90 years. The undulating hills are described, rather poetically by Philippe, in terms of a “bossu” (hunchback), and their differing aspects certainly contribute to the complexity. The natural freshness of Vinsobres underwrites the generosity in 2015, with Mourvèdre spice and Grenache flesh all harmoniously entwined. Drink 2019 - 2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.

A famous blend with the limelight shared predominately between Marsanne and Viognier, with Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Picpoul all vocal as minority shareholders. The wine is appropriately complex, with agrumes, figs, nougat and hints of exotic fruit on the nose, followed by a palate dominated by star anise, spice, almonds and pineapple. Drink now to 2024.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.

The vines are spread over plots in both Courthézon and Crau and therefore are divided, unevenly, between plots with more sand and those with more of the famously evocative pudding stones. Stéphane attributes the quality of 2015 to two divine interventions of rain. The first arrived, naturally enough, on Bastille Day, with the second in the middle of August. He describes the wines as both concentrated and silky, citing 2005 and 2006 as worthy exemplars. The 2015 may well be better than both. Drink 2019-2028.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Stéphane’s vineyards are equally divided between the galet-strewn parcels around Orange and Courthézon and the sandier, chalkier soils heading south towards the Crau plateau and the village of Bédarrides. The emphasis on traditional winemaking is now embroidered with new ideas, a little new oak and laudable ambition; the ensemble is getting better and better each year, yet still constitutes excellent value. Now seen as every bit as good as his distant cousins at Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Stéphane is embracing biodynamic viticulture in his unceasing efforts to excel.