Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.

From the excellent 2015 vintage, Native is a blend of concrete-aged Grenache and wood-aged Syrah and Mourvèdre. The Grenache’s silky tannins enrobe a pleasing dark-fruit core, with myrtle and red cherry both in evidence on the palate. Drink now to 2023.

There is more red clay underneath these vines and 85 percent of them are Grenache. The balancing Mourvèdre is grown in a vineyard which is surrounded by the eponymous scrub. The felicitous blend of soils and natural environment brings out the fresher, more linear, side to the Grenache, and is complemented by the sooty, spicy complexity of Mourvèdre. Concentration and firm tannins do not seem to contradict an engaging almost ethereal character that is very typical of this grower. Drink 2018 - 2025. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. Only the legal structure and the location of the winery have changed substantially. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.

The idea of a Côtes du Rhône from Monsieur Chave was always fascinating; I was intrigued to know where he would source his fruit for such a project. Vinsobres, with its altitude, its high proportion of Syrah and its relatively northern location, provides a significant minority and the other key communes are Cairanne, Séguret and Valréas, all lauded and all tending to eschew more indulgent styles of Grenache. Elegant and aromatic, the outstanding 2015 has a dense textured palate, ripe and fruit-forward and with a pleasing lick of pepper at the finish. Drink now to 2021.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Syrah adds polish and floral lift to this outstanding blend of Grenache and Carignan. The blue and red clay terroir of the vineyards is ideally suited to the generous vintage that was 2015. Here we enjoy ripe yet savoury notes, with a backdrop of liquorice and a touch of star anise, garlanded with Mediterranean flowers. Drink 2019-2026. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Escaravailles dates from 1953 and is now in the more than capable hands of Gilles Ferran, who has constructed a new cuverie and built the reputation of the domaine into one of the leading names in the region. The property is located high in the hills behind the villages of Roaix and Rasteau, where the vines enjoy a special microclimate: here it is relatively warm despite the altitude, with exceptional expositions and soils which are dominated by red and blue clay. Escaravaille, for those of an inquisitive disposition, is the Occitane word for beetle (hence the labels) and also the term once used to describe the black-robed monks of the region, presumably from the Benedictine order.

Laurent’s initial anxieties about relatively low levels of acidity in the Grenache have been dispelled over the élevage period. The Vacqueyras is certainly fresh and juicy – its fruit sourced from ten parcels and dominated by the 75 percent of tank-aged Grenache. Approachable and ripe, yet discretely structured, this works very well and can be drunk in relative youth. Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015–a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.

Far superior to the quality inferred from its appellation, this well-named cuvée is a firm staff favourite, indeed, a firm favourite of your correspondent; such is its superb quality/price ratio. The blend is between Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Mourvèdre, with the latter two adding a controlled rusticity to an otherwise very polished ensemble, thereby enhancing its capacity to fascinate and thrill the taster with a real sense of authenticity. Drink 2018-2022. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.

A wine of great purity and focus, with red fruits, aniseed and hints – appropriately enough – of the garrigue. The wine is made up of 70 percent Grenache and 30 percent Syrah, the age of the Grenache being at least 60 years. The tannins are very fin; the wine rounded and charming, with ripeness finely tempered and nicely managed. Drink 2018 - 2025. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Christine and Eric Saurel own 70 hectares around the villages of Vacqueyras and Gigondas, all farmed in accordance with rigorous biodynamic principles. An initial modest scepticism at their almost obsessive fascination with the lunar patterns and so forth has been countered, over the years, by the sheer quality of the wines. Christine describes her goals in terms of “luminosité”, an intangible and almost ethereal term, yet one which seems strangely appropriate and is explained most eloquently by the wines themselves. 

Philippe is very proud of the Demeter accreditation his estate has achieved, which has long been the leading light in this recently elevated Cru. He always has a pleasingly pithy turn of phrase to describe a vintage. Praising both the concentration and tannic harmony of 2015, he adds that it is “more olive than spice” in profile. And so it appears… the ripeness has as its corollary very sweet pips and firm skins, all contributing to an assemblage which is already rounded and soft. Its silky texture quietly supported by a classically ornate balustrade. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.

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This Crozes-Hermitage, from the highly rated 2015 vintage, offers a balance of red fruit and black pepper on the palate. It is joined by fine tannin and a good, fresh acidity on the finish, making it the ideal partner for grilled meats.
Simon Field MW, Berry Bros. & Rudd

Very well received in the restaurants of London and further afield, Laurent’s Gigondas does not sit at the tarry, rustic and tannic end of the spectrum. Its style is more inverse nostalgia, inclining towards an expression of dark cherry fruit, Asian spice, firm yet fine tannins and a generous mouth-feel. The 2015 excels in all of these areas. Drink 2019-2026. 
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer

Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015 – a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.

A famous blend with the limelight shared predominately between Marsanne and Viognier, with Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Picpoul all vocal as minority shareholders. The wine is appropriately complex, with agrumes, figs, nougat and hints of exotic fruit on the nose, followed by a palate dominated by star anise, spice, almonds and pineapple. Drink now to 2024.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.

For Emmanuel, 2015 was a relatively dry year – unusual in the sense that his vineyards are in Roche le Glun and therefore fairly near to the river. The sécheresse is not evidenced in the finished article, however. The low yields and coaxing alchemy of a gentle but persuasive extraction have ensured harmony; plenty of plummy, damson weight; fine, upstanding, youthful tannins; and signature aromatics of tapenade and Indian spice. This one will harmonise very agreeably over the short to medium term. Drink 2018-2023.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

The canicule (heat wave) in July 2015 caused a little anxiety over these three venerable plots, but Christine and Eric, long-term biodynamic advocates, held their nerve and the gamble paid off. A relatively stormy August nourished the vines and the natural balance was maintained. The final blend, as usual, is made up of 80 percent Grenache and 20 percent Mourvèdre and is rich and rounded, with dark fruit to the fore and hints of black pepper and soft spice in support. Drink 2019 - 2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Christine and Eric Saurel own 70 hectares around the villages of Vacqueyras and Gigondas, all farmed in accordance with rigorous biodynamic principles. An initial modest scepticism at their almost obsessive fascination with the lunar patterns and so forth has been countered, over the years, by the sheer quality of the wines. Christine describes her goals in terms of “luminosité”, an intangible and almost ethereal term, yet one which seems strangely appropriate and is explained most eloquently by the wines themselves. 

Jean-Louis is John the Baptiste to the re-emerging St Joseph appellation, if you will pardon the blasphemy. Despite the family’s association with the hill of Hermitage, it is across the river in Mauves where the family have resided over the centuries and it is here in St Joseph where he has bought and completely transformed the famous Clos Florentin estate. Indeed some of the estate fruit finds its way into this (négociant) offering; it is poised and powerful, with dark cherry and spice, finely etched tannins and a long finish. Far from discrete, at the bottom of the composition is etched the signature of the master. Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Cadène is made up of three co-planted and elevated parcels of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, with an average age of over 90 years. The undulating hills are described, rather poetically by Philippe, in terms of a “bossu” (hunchback), and their differing aspects certainly contribute to the complexity. The natural freshness of Vinsobres underwrites the generosity in 2015, with Mourvèdre spice and Grenache flesh all harmoniously entwined. Drink 2019 - 2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.

A blend of 80 percent Marsanne and 20 percent Rousanne, the Prestige is beautifully aromatic, with notes of pear-skin and honeysuckle to the fore. The palate has classic Marsanne grip with hints of beeswax and lanolin; and beyond that, a fine, almost saline, minerality which lends a frim structure. Prestigious indeed! Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Made with 100 percent Grenache from the sandy soils just to the north of the Crau plateau, Saumades is an elegant, almost feminine wine, with a floral charm on the nose and a pleasing purity of hedgerow fruit on the palate. It is a near-neighbour, both stylistically and geographically, to Château Rayas. Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The Mousset family, rather like the Perrins or the Sabons, seem to dominate the landscape of the Southern Rhône, be it through the management of the distinctive Domaine des Fines Roches hotel, or the ownership of one of the largest estates in the valley (Clos St Michel), or one of the smallest (Domaine des Saumades). With Château Rayas as one’s immediate neighbour, even 2.5 hectares can go a long way.

Sourced diversely over the north of the appellation, the wine’s final blend is classic beyond peradventure (65 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, 10 percent Mourvèdre and five percent Cinsault) and looks set to be an exceptional domaine cuvée, with 80 percent de-stemmed and 80 percent vat-aged grapes. Its high-toned fruit aromas sit more than comfortably with intimations of garrigue and Asian spices. The palate is dominated by blackcurrant and cassis…a silky symphony in a bright key. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.

Chaupin’s calling card resides in the fact that its plots, albeit diverse (Chapouin and Janasse in the north, Le Crau in the South) are all predominantly sandy. Its 100 percent Grenache therefore invites comparison with Rayas… and a favourable comparison, one is inclined to think. Its charming feminine nose marries black fruit and violets, while the conjugal rights are sealed by a luxuriant, softly eloquent palate which lingers on the finish and in the memory. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.