Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.

From the excellent 2015 vintage, Native is a blend of concrete-aged Grenache and wood-aged Syrah and Mourvèdre. The Grenache’s silky tannins enrobe a pleasing dark-fruit core, with myrtle and red cherry both in evidence on the palate. Drink now to 2023.

Laurent’s initial anxieties about relatively low levels of acidity in the Grenache have been dispelled over the élevage period. The Vacqueyras is certainly fresh and juicy – its fruit sourced from ten parcels and dominated by the 75 percent of tank-aged Grenache. Approachable and ripe, yet discretely structured, this works very well and can be drunk in relative youth. Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015–a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.

Marc Perrin likes to characterise Coudoulet as a happy battle between the “fireworks” of the Grenache and the more restrained and “lean” Syrah. Lean in a positive sense, of course. To this, however, must be added 30 percent of Mourvèdre (the same percentage as the Grenache) and 20 percent of Cinsault (the same amount as the Syrah). Mourvèdre adds spice and depth, while Cinsault delivers a gentle feminine charm. Indeed, almost paradoxically, given the generosity of the vintage, the wine is less fleshy and opulent at this early stage. To me it recalls 2010 in its authority and linear personality, both more than favourable precursors. Drink 2017-2025.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The Perrins are far from equivocal in outlining their aspirations in the Southern Rhône; they wish to match the undisputed primacy of their Beaucastel estate with hegemony of classic vineyards to demonstrate the best characteristics of the best villages: Voltaire without Pangloss. Nurturing and guiding as appropriate, they have rapidly built up an enviable portfolio which has gone virtually all the way to the realisation of this ambition. Their attention has been focused especially on the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, both of which share altitude and aspect to suit the subtly changing climate in the region.

Philippe is very proud of the Demeter accreditation his estate has achieved, which has long been the leading light in this recently elevated Cru. He always has a pleasingly pithy turn of phrase to describe a vintage, and when we visited him to taste the vintage en primeur, he praised both the concentration and tannic harmony of 2015, adding that it is “more olive than spice” in profile. And so it appears… A regal colour presages a suitably refined nose, its dark fruit and spice underwritten by a whiff of something savoury, jambon cru maybe, courtesy no doubt, of the Mourvèdre. Figs and white chocolate join more usual descriptors such as myrtle, plum and griotte on the palate. There is good concentration here and the finish is strong. Drink now to 2022.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.

A famous blend with the limelight shared predominately between Marsanne and Viognier, with Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Picpoul all vocal as minority shareholders. The wine is appropriately complex, with agrumes, figs, nougat and hints of exotic fruit on the nose, followed by a palate dominated by star anise, spice, almonds and pineapple. Drink now to 2024.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.

Sophie and Catherine were, unsurprisingly, amongst the first of a growing band of brothers (and sisters) to plant over the river in the slightly undervalued appellation of Lirac. Minute geological differences have a big effect on Grenache especially, which can result in wines, such as this, that are richly robust, wonderfully dark of fruit, yet approachable by way of temperament. Well worth the detour. Drink 2018-2023. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, maybe modifying their techniques a little along the way, but not too much. Biodynamic in all but the letter, they are based close to Beaucastel, but their plots, albeit more modest in total surface area, are more widely spaced over the appellation, with the most significant holdings in the areas around Courthézon and on the central Crau plateau. Low yields are key to the exceptional quality of the wines.

Made with 100 percent Grenache from the sandy soils just to the north of the Crau plateau, Saumades is an elegant, almost feminine wine, with a floral charm on the nose and a pleasing purity of hedgerow fruit on the palate. The 2015 vintage was warm but not overwhelmingly hot, as evidenced by the depth of colour in this wine - episcopal and almost luminous; by the generous aromas of blueberry, forest floor and thyme; and by an impressive texture in the mouth, which marries firm, yet silky tannins and a fulsome, seductive core of fruit. It is a near-neighbour, both stylistically and geographically, to Château Rayas. Drink now to 2025.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Cadène is made up of three co-planted and elevated parcels of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, with an average age of over 90 years. The undulating hills are described, rather poetically by Philippe, in terms of a “bossu” (hunchback), and their differing aspects certainly contribute to the complexity. The natural freshness of Vinsobres underwrites the generosity in 2015, with Mourvèdre spice and Grenache flesh all harmoniously entwined. Drink 2019 - 2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.

Cleverly named and relatively new to the Combier canon, Cap Nord is sourced from plots in the north of the appellation, in Gervans to be precise, where the soil is dominated by loess and gneiss. The aspect has a northerly inclination too, affording a certain rigour to the wine. This has marked peppery acidity, which nonetheless defers to the dark fruit, and then a powerful, eloquent finish more normally associated with near neighbours on the hill of Hermitage itself. Drink now to 2023.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Of Daniel’s two Pallières cuvées, Les Racines is sourced from lower vineyards than Les Terrasses, but from older vines – nearly 70 years of age in the case of the Grenache, which makes up 80 percent of this cuvée, with the balance made up from Syrah (8%), Cinsault (7%) and Clairette (5%). The surprisingly feminine floral aromas are followed by a fine and elegant palate, with notes of myrtle and liquorice, mocha and forest floor all in evidence. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Cinsault in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Clairette. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

La Nerthe has always majored on the fruity side of the Châteauneuf profile. Sometimes, given the venerable vines in situ and the almost perfect cellars, I have hoped for a little more “authenticity” here. Ralph may have previously been making wine for Jaboulet in the North, but this is his most clearly articulated aspiration. One should rejoice in Grenache and garland it in the inevitable complexity offered by the famous palette of varietals, without losing sight of the essential features that elevated the appellation in the first place. The savoury, pleasantly herbal personality of the 2015, sitting perfectly within a dark fruit core, provides a most encouraging expression of this mission statement. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The grandest of all the properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the one closest to actually having a castle, La Nerthe is a virtually contiguous vineyard, with 90 hectares of calcareous and sandy soils located just to the east of the village. With each new vintage they enhance their reputation as one of the leading “classically modern” estates in the region.

Isabel certainly has a penchant for making several cuvées, understandably, given the diversity of the terroir at her disposal. It is, however, reassuring that her “entry-level” wine is so good. It brings to mind the aromas of a Provençal market place without the noise. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The growing stature of Isabel Ferrando in this large village is bolstered by increasing international accolades, and, maybe even more importantly, by the generosity of the commentaries of her peers. Isabel Ferrando’s vines are mainly located in the southern sector; her modus operandi is fairly traditional with no de-stemming, cement-tank maturation and a taste for délestage (rack and return). Her outlook and temperament, however, fall into the more modern camp, as manifested by the multiplicity of differing cuvées, all, thankfully pleasingly different from each other.

Sourced diversely over the north of the appellation, the wine’s final blend is classic beyond peradventure (65 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, 10 percent Mourvèdre and five percent Cinsault) and looks set to be an exceptional domaine cuvée, with 80 percent de-stemmed and 80 percent vat-aged grapes. Its high-toned fruit aromas sit more than comfortably with intimations of garrigue and Asian spices. The palate is dominated by blackcurrant and cassis…a silky symphony in a bright key. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.

Made from vines that date from 1902, 90 percent of which Stéphane knows to be Grenache and 10 percent he’s a little less sure about, the Impériale is an extremely impressive achievement that is aged for over 18 months before release. The most striking quality of this wine, given that concentration is axiomatic from such a producer in such a year, is the length on the palate, which is simply astonishing. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Stéphane’s vineyards are equally divided between the galet-strewn parcels around Orange and Courthézon and the sandier, chalkier soils heading south towards the Crau plateau and the village of Bédarrides. The emphasis on traditional winemaking is now embroidered with new ideas, a little new oak and laudable ambition; the ensemble is getting better and better each year, yet still constitutes excellent value. Now seen as every bit as good as his distant cousins at Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Stéphane is embracing biodynamic viticulture in his unceasing efforts to excel.

The 2015 is a classic blend of 65 percent Grenache, 15 percent of both Mourvèdre and Syrah, plus five percent of a somewhat anonymous combination from the remainder of the appellation’s generous palette. It is immediately charming, with a perfume of garrigue and laurel, forest floor and eastern spice. The palate underlines the generosity of the vintage, with a lively black fruit charisma held in check by balancing natural acidity and ripe yet finely etched tannins. Symphonic in scope and ageing potential, this is an outstanding Vieux Télégraphe in every way and will sit proudly with all of its most prestigious forbears. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Cinsault. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

Of the 13 plots which make up this wine, the key ones are Beaurenard in the north-west, Charbonnière on the central Crau plateau and Gallimardes in the south... in other words, this has a richly diverse provenance. The blend is 80 percent Grenache, 10 percent Mourvèdre, seven percent Syrah and three percent Cinsault. The wine displays classic aromas of thyme, sous-bois and macerated plum and an equally classic palate, which is long and unnervingly complex. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, maybe modifying their techniques a little along the way, but not too much. Biodynamic in all but the letter, they are based close to Beaucastel, but their plots, albeit more modest in total surface area, are more widely spaced over the appellation, with the most significant holdings in the areas around Courthézon and on the central Crau plateau. Low yields are key to the exceptional quality of the wines.