2015 Rhône
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Chateau la Nerthe,
Ready, but will improve,
La Nerthe has always majored on the fruity side of the Châteauneuf profile. Sometimes, given the venerable vines in situ and the almost perfect cellars, I have hoped for a little more “authenticity” here. Ralph may have previously been making wine for Jaboulet in the North, but this is his most clearly articulated aspiration. One should rejoice in Grenache and garland it in the inevitable complexity offered by the famous palette of varietals, without losing sight of the essential features that elevated the appellation in the first place. The savoury, pleasantly herbal personality of the 2015, sitting perfectly within a dark fruit core, provides a most encouraging expression of this mission statement. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The grandest of all the properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the one closest to actually having a castle, La Nerthe is a virtually contiguous vineyard, with 90 hectares of calcareous and sandy soils located just to the east of the village. With each new vintage they enhance their reputation as one of the leading “classically modern” estates in the region.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The grandest of all the properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the one closest to actually having a castle, La Nerthe is a virtually contiguous vineyard, with 90 hectares of calcareous and sandy soils located just to the east of the village. With each new vintage they enhance their reputation as one of the leading “classically modern” estates in the region.
Domaine Alain Voge,
For laying down,
Eponymous slopes, suitably adroit, from the near homophone lieu-dit, Les Chailles, host one of Alain’s most sublime pieces of work. Syrah is seldom as expressive in youth, and after only a little time in glass it will cede a cornucopia of woodland magic. Oak plays its part, but discretely, diplomatically, as the fruit rejoins an almost painfully eloquent soliloquy. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
For laying down,
The 2015 Hermitage is in bottle and it's a profound, long-lived wine, although the 2017 may perhaps surpass it in terms of pure pleasure. The 2015 is a bit meaty and cedary up front, backed by a mix of berry fruit and spice variations. But what stands out is the wine's immaculate structure and balance. It's firm and tannic without being hard or unyielding, finishing with fold after fold of velvety richness. While the impatient can certainly derive some pleasure from it even now, I'd opt for cellaring it a decade or more.
Joe Czerwinski - 31/10/2018
Joe Czerwinski - 31/10/2018
Paul Avril et Fils,
For laying down,
Beyond the Grenache, there is now 35 percent of Mourvèdre in the blend, sprucing the finish with balanced acidity, with vestigial Vaccarèse and Counoise and, these days, a shade less than 10 percent Syrah. Mediterranean to its core, in other words, with notes of laurel, eucalypt, liquorice and spice framed by beautifully ripe tannins, and a luxuriant core of Grenache, all cashmere silk and seamless indulgence. Black cherry, blueberry and myrtle dominate the fruit character on the mid-palate and the finish is long and refreshing. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Just what is it that has made Clos des Papes the most sought-after address in this village? Vincent Avril has much to say, but the key parts of his exposition to me are exceptionally low yields, widely fragmented plots and a refusal to venerate Mammon by introducing of a series of deluxe cuvées. The wine is therefore the definitive statement of a village that is celebrated for blended complexity, deliciously ironic in a man who appears to have a distinctly Burgundian temperament (in a good sense, needless to say!). This aside, Vincent does not actually vinify by plot, but segregates three or four key blends in the March following harvest, blends which are marked by greater or lesser influence of the minority shareholding grapes and which therefore signal both the character of the vintage and the relative importance of Grenache in the ensemble.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Just what is it that has made Clos des Papes the most sought-after address in this village? Vincent Avril has much to say, but the key parts of his exposition to me are exceptionally low yields, widely fragmented plots and a refusal to venerate Mammon by introducing of a series of deluxe cuvées. The wine is therefore the definitive statement of a village that is celebrated for blended complexity, deliciously ironic in a man who appears to have a distinctly Burgundian temperament (in a good sense, needless to say!). This aside, Vincent does not actually vinify by plot, but segregates three or four key blends in the March following harvest, blends which are marked by greater or lesser influence of the minority shareholding grapes and which therefore signal both the character of the vintage and the relative importance of Grenache in the ensemble.
Domaine de la Janasse,
For laying down,
This is one of the great wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The old vines in question are located over four different plots and four different soil types. Sand, clay, galet and limestone all work together, with over 40 percent of the vines predating 1940. Beguilingly simple winemaking (concrete tank and foudre) does not get in the way of inherent complexity. Christophe waxes lyrical for some time and then, with a gentle smile, suggests accompanying this wine with jugged hare in 12 years’ time. Quite right. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.
Jaboulet,
Ready, but will improve,
Smooth, impressive flesh and weight. Graphite-like stony minerally aromas with dark cherries and darker plums, the oak adding cedary woody notes. The palate has an impressive plushness as well as assertive tannins below. Extremely defined, pure and attractive. A great vintage. Best from 2019 and for a decade at least.
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
Drink now,
For Emmanuel, 2015 was a relatively dry year – unusual in the sense that his vineyards are in Roche le Glun and therefore fairly near to the river. The sécheresse is not evidenced in the finished article, however. The low yields and coaxing alchemy of a gentle but persuasive extraction have ensured harmony; plenty of plummy, damson weight; fine, upstanding, youthful tannins; and signature aromatics of tapenade and Indian spice. This one will harmonise very agreeably over the short to medium term. Drink 2018-2023.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Chateau de Beaucastel,
For laying down,
The component tasting is always instructive, but sometimes quite exacting: with the 2015, it was far from it. With the possible exception of the youthful and slightly austere Syrah, much of which had been fermented with stems, the other varietals were all gloriously expressive. From the red-fruit charm of the Cinsault and the white-pepper grip of the Counoise to the fleshy, fulsome Grenache and the smoky, blue-fruit velvet of the Mourvèdre, all was promising indeed. And the assemblage is far greater than the sum of its parts. This truly is a great Beaucastel in the offing – a wonderful expression of Provençal generosity, tempered by spice and intimations of intensely satisfactory development. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
It is immediately apparent that this is a Beaucastel vintage of the highest order. The weight and density of fruit on the nose conveys this straight away, this is positively dripping with dark, ripe yet brooding fruit. On the palate this density continues unimpeded, there are waves of complexity beneath the very pure dark fruit and classical Beaucastel garrigue notes along with gunpowder and black tea. The length of finish is extremely pleasing, it marches on and on in a wonderfully fine, and dare I say unusually elegant fashion. This is a Beaucastel which will age very well, a true vin de garde. The best and most complete young Beaucastel I have tasted.
Gary Owen - Private Account Manager
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
It is immediately apparent that this is a Beaucastel vintage of the highest order. The weight and density of fruit on the nose conveys this straight away, this is positively dripping with dark, ripe yet brooding fruit. On the palate this density continues unimpeded, there are waves of complexity beneath the very pure dark fruit and classical Beaucastel garrigue notes along with gunpowder and black tea. The length of finish is extremely pleasing, it marches on and on in a wonderfully fine, and dare I say unusually elegant fashion. This is a Beaucastel which will age very well, a true vin de garde. The best and most complete young Beaucastel I have tasted.
Gary Owen - Private Account Manager
Chateau de Beaucastel,
For laying down,
Marc Perrin likes to characterise Coudoulet as a happy battle between the “fireworks” of the Grenache and the more restrained and “lean” Syrah. Lean in a positive sense, of course. To this, however, must be added 30 percent of Mourvèdre (the same percentage as the Grenache) and 20 percent of Cinsault (the same amount as the Syrah). Mourvèdre adds spice and depth, while Cinsault delivers a gentle feminine charm. Indeed, almost paradoxically, given the generosity of the vintage, the wine is less fleshy and opulent at this early stage. To me it recalls 2010 in its authority and linear personality, both more than favourable precursors. Drink 2017-2025.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The Perrins are far from equivocal in outlining their aspirations in the Southern Rhône; they wish to match the undisputed primacy of their Beaucastel estate with hegemony of classic vineyards to demonstrate the best characteristics of the best villages: Voltaire without Pangloss. Nurturing and guiding as appropriate, they have rapidly built up an enviable portfolio which has gone virtually all the way to the realisation of this ambition. Their attention has been focused especially on the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, both of which share altitude and aspect to suit the subtly changing climate in the region.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The Perrins are far from equivocal in outlining their aspirations in the Southern Rhône; they wish to match the undisputed primacy of their Beaucastel estate with hegemony of classic vineyards to demonstrate the best characteristics of the best villages: Voltaire without Pangloss. Nurturing and guiding as appropriate, they have rapidly built up an enviable portfolio which has gone virtually all the way to the realisation of this ambition. Their attention has been focused especially on the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, both of which share altitude and aspect to suit the subtly changing climate in the region.
Vieux Telegraphe,
For laying down,
The 2015 is a classic blend of 65 percent Grenache, 15 percent of both Mourvèdre and Syrah, plus five percent of a somewhat anonymous combination from the remainder of the appellation’s generous palette. It is immediately charming, with a perfume of garrigue and laurel, forest floor and eastern spice. The palate underlines the generosity of the vintage, with a lively black fruit charisma held in check by balancing natural acidity and ripe yet finely etched tannins. Symphonic in scope and ageing potential, this is an outstanding Vieux Télégraphe in every way and will sit proudly with all of its most prestigious forbears. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Cinsault. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Cinsault. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.
Domaine Du Tunnel,
Drink now,
A blend of 80 percent Marsanne and 20 percent Rousanne, the Prestige is beautifully aromatic, with notes of pear-skin and honeysuckle to the fore. The palate has classic Marsanne grip with hints of beeswax and lanolin; and beyond that, a fine, almost saline, minerality which lends a frim structure. Prestigious indeed! Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Domaine Marc Sorrel,
For laying down,
From vines of over 50 years of age, the Rocoules Blanc is made up of 90 percent Marsanne and 10 percent Roussanne, vinified traditionally and aged patiently for 18 months in old wood. The 2015 was harvested quite early (4th/5th September) and has attractive aromas that are chalky going on floral, citric going on honeyed – complex, in other words. From the deep colour to the long finish, one cannot fail but to be impressed by the profundity here. As with all great white Hermitage it will go to sleep in a couple of years and re-emerge, resplendent, four or five years later. Drink 2022-2028+
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Domaine Marc Sorrel,
For laying down,
The famous neologism which marries the Greffieux and Meal sites also weds elegance and complexity, the wine-trade’s favourite descriptors. They are far from mis-placed here; the 2015 has 10% of Marsanne added to lend a certain feminine charm to an otherwise imperiously robust wine, a wine that will open up over the next decade or so. M Sorrel, for whatever reason, describes the appearance of this wine in terms of ‘Chinese ink’. I shall ask for elucidation on my next visit.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
For laying down,
The Rostaings are lucky enough to own two plots of this famous schistous vineyard, their holdings amounting to 1.6 hectares overall. The 2015 has not been de-stemmed more than a third, and it will probably stay in wood for a total of at least 18 months, such is its inherent power. About 13 percent of the wine is aged in new wood, presumably not a contradiction to René’s remark that “if you like new wood you don’t like wine”! I certainly like this wine in any event. As usual it is more forward than its sibling in youth, with notes of pine spice and black cherry evidenced, plenty of mid-palate concentration and then a quiet authority on the finish. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
The (re)building of the eponymous winery, elegant Tourelles in the centre of medieval Gigondas continues apace, but the Perrins are not inclined to rush the project. Their new winery is intended to be every bit as significant as Beaucastel itself and its construction displays prescient recognition of the emerging primacy of the hillside vines of Gigondas. None are better located than theirs – the Grenache is planted on pre-phylloxera sandy soils, while the Syrah and Mourvèdre can be found a little higher up, where adamantine limestone texture underwrites the weave of Grenache’s old-vine silk. A really exciting wine. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The Perrins are far from equivocal in outlining their aspirations in the Southern Rhône; they wish to match the undisputed primacy of their Beaucastel estate with hegemony of classic vineyards to demonstrate the best characteristics of the best villages: Voltaire without Pangloss. Nurturing and guiding as appropriate, they have rapidly built up an enviable portfolio which has gone virtually all the way to the realisation of this ambition. Their attention has been focused especially on the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, both of which share altitude and aspect to suit the subtly changing climate in the region.