Domaine Lyrarakis is located in the mountainous commune of Alagni, in Crete. The well-preserved 14th century stone-presses in the fields around the winery are testament to the area’s long history of grape-growing and winemaking. Yet another seriously impressive wine from the estate, this Assyrtiko is grown at 580 metres’ altitiude in the Voila vineyard.

Like all the estate’s wines, it combines clear varietal character with mouth-watering freshness. On the nose, there’s a subtle stone-fruit character – more like the skin of a peach than the flesh – as well as aromas of ripe lime and melon. The palate is attractively round, almost waxy, but with a delicious bitter edge. The finish is long and balanced. A fitting and extremely successful accompaniment to fillet of sole, ideally on a sunny day in summer 2017 (assuming we’ll have a few).

George Skouras was at the forefront of the Greek wine revival in the 1990s. His French oenology training, progressive ideas, and passion for native Greek grape varieties, helped Greece’s wine movement gain momentum. In 2004 George moved his operation to a new state-of-the-art winery in Malandreni, just outside the town of Argos in the wine appellation of Nemea in the Peloponnese.

This wine’s potent aromatic punch is belied by its delicate straw colour – extraordinary given that Moscofilero grapes have bright pink skin! Expect aromas of honeysuckle, white flowers and even a hint of ginger. The onslaught of aromas might be overwhelming were it not for the zingy acidity that follows, a consequence of the Martinia vineyard’s 750 metre altitude. A smile-inducing, thought-provoking and, above all, mouth-watering apéritif.