2007 Chablis

There were clouds over Chablis in 2007, but they carried some very noticeable silver linings. The clouds deposited horrendous hailstorms in July, yet the Grand Crus escaped almost entirely unscathed and have produced some brilliant wines this year.

There is a concentration of flavour allied to a classical steely structure which will make 2007 a year to remember for the top end of Chablis. Yields are down but quality is certainly very much up.

Jean-Paul Droin (Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin) was one of the first to reintroduce new wood barrels to Chablis. His son Benoit, now in sole charge, has refined the approach, using wood selectively according to the needs of each cuvée. This is now one of the very best cellars in Chablis.

Domaine William Fèvre: We have been watching the superlative performance of this famous domaine with interest over the last few years, since Joseph Henriot took over ownership and Didier Séguier was brought up from Bouchard Père & Fils to make the wine. No expense is spared in the vineyard or the cellar. The grapes are hand harvested at optimum ripeness in small baskets and the juice is fermented and matured in one year old barrels from Bouchard.

I was blown away by the quality of the 2007 Grand crus, as exciting a range of wines as I have ever tasted in Chablis. Prediction: Grand Cru Chablis at 15 years old should be an absolute delight.Jasper Morris MW