2010 Rhone
My favourite Rhône wine vintages of the last decade have probably been the superlative 2001 and the relatively under-rated 2006, the latter more specifically in the North, whilst the South excelled in 2007. 2010 looks set to join their ranks and quite possibly beat the lot of them!
For Marc Perrin it is the best vintage in his experience, compared by him to 1985, which he just remembers, and by his parents to 1978 and 1962. Laurent Combier advises that it is the very best of the 22 vintages that he has made, and, more generally, Christophe Delorme at Domaine de la Mordorée describes it as the ‘best ever’. However one looks at it the word ‘best’ seems to come up quite frequently…. Hyperbole or truth? The vignerons know not to cry wolf and proclaim every year as their best, as the market is too mature and discerning for that.
Rhône 10 En Primeur - Reports & Blogs on a superlative vintage
- Vintage Report by Alun Griffiths MW and Martin Hudson MW
- Blog: 2010 in the Northern Rhône by Alun Griffiths MW
- Our New Producers at a glance by Martin Hudson MW
- Vintage Assessment & Top Rated Wines by J. Robinson MW
- Vintage Review & Top Rated Wines by R. Parker
So what exactly is so special about 2010?
The answer, somewhat paradoxically, lies in a negative, namely very poor fruit set, which has drastically reduced volumes but also increased concentrations and yields. It was more prevalent in the South, especially with Grenache, the grape often associated with fleshiness of fruit and high levels of alcohol.
The correspondingly increased significance in the blends, albeit by small degrees, of the Syrah and Mourvèdre varieties, allied to an unusually long growing season and a relatively mild August have all informed the style of the vintage. These are classic, structured wines of pedigree, with relatively high tannin and acidity levels (as in Bordeaux) but a wonderful purity and linearity.
Whilst not LS Lowry or Giacometti in Whilst not LS Lowry or Giacometti in physique, the wines are far from Rubenesque. 2009 was more ‘solaire’; 2010 is described by Marc Sorrel, with pithy precision, as ‘précis, droit et complexe’.
Classicism and aristocracy pervade the wines; Poussin, David and Claude are the most accurate artistic comparisons; vins de garde certainly, and to quote Nick Thompson at Ameillaud, ‘upstanding’ wines, with a touch of the Roundhead rather than the Cavalier about them, but with undoubted ageing potential.
Stéphane Ogier describes it as a connoisseur’s vintage, a vintage for the English rather than the American market. I’m sure he does not say the opposite when he is with his American importer.
Northern Rhône
A cold wettish winter cleaned out the vineyards and raised the water table. Snow, normally rare, caused complications in February on the Autoroute du Soleil all the way down to Avignon and beyond, setting the pattern for a delayed growing cycle and correspondingly late harvest, which strayed into October as in days of old! The mild early spring did not last and the flowering was tricky, the poor fruit-set the cause of the low yields later on.
A warm early summer ceded to a rather mild August and then pleasing conditions in early September. Midsummer was relatively dry, despite lacklustre temperatures, so a little modest rain in September was perfect to ensure an optimal coincidence of phenolic and physiological ripeness. The berries were almost universally small and thick-skinned but with discernible sweetness and, importantly, no bitterness in the pips at the time of picking.
The cool nights in summer have ensured freshness and good levels of acidity, which have made the whites particularly successful. Indeed the whites, to my mind, now bear comparison with any in France and some of the Condrieus possess levels of complexity that I have never encountered before. The reds are marked by low PH levels, and high polyphenols in the skins which have given Syrah superb definition of colour and exceptional ageing potential.
Jean-Michel Gerin praises the ‘equilibre’ of the wines; long seasons can result in high levels of sugar and alcohol and a lack of harmony. This is not the case here Indeed, overall alcohol levels are probably a notch beneath those of 2009, with acidity a shade higher..
René Rostaing and Jean-Louis Chave both praise the ‘rigour’ and the ‘Jansenist’ purity of the wines, and Francois Villard is excited by the complexity engendered over the long season. Yves Cuilleron, interestingly, describes 2010 as ‘le millésime de tannin’ comparing it to 2006.
The 2006s, as mentioned above, are now drinking superbly, while the initially more lauded 2005s are still battling with their muscular tannins. It seems that for the 2010 vintage, wines will have all the charm of the 2006s then, but with a little more gravitas and depth. Perfect for the cellar in other words.
Southern Rhône
Overall and quite unusually the weather patterns were quite similar in the South, but the effects of the poor fruit-set (coulure) were especially relevant to Grenache and the resulting yields were even more parsimonious. This was more of an issue in Châteauneuf-du-Pape than some of the hillside villages, such as Gigondas, which is two weeks behind in its vegetative cycle.
Vincent Avril at Clos des Papes may have, in this as in so many other ways, been exceptional with his yields of a mere 18 hl/ha, but the average for the whole of Châteauneuf-du-Pape was a not much higher at 27 hl/ha. Indeed given the low volumes, the quality of the vintage and the rapidly increasing international demand, it is pleasing that any price increases have been relatively modest. Long may it continue!
The 2009 wines were fatter, fleshier but sometimes undermined by slightly drying tannins at the back. As in the North, tannin management has been superb in the wines made south of Montélimar, and with the Grenache relatively subdued, the Mourvèdre and Syrah in particular have been allowed to show their worth, adding colour, shape and phenolic rigour.
The late harvest came after welcome rain around the 8th and then again the 24th September…the long hang-time, logically, increasing the influence of the soil on the grapes and justifying the near-ubiquitous ensuing references to ‘vins de terroir’. The volumes are miserly but the gold-standard of quality has never been stronger; indeed any intimations of austerity in the wines, in deference to parlous economic times, are quickly undermined by recognition of the equilibrium, finesse and quiet confidence of the 2010s.
Comparisons have been made with 2007, 1990 and 1978, all very pure and harmonious vintages, all universally applauded on release and on every possible occasion thereafter. This bodes exceptionally well for the vintage that was 2010…….
Simon Field MW, BBR Wine Buyer
Prices:
Bottle
£29.25
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
If one believes the old adage about imitation and flattery, then Les Vins de Vienne should be justifiably proud of the numerous growers now making wine from the ancient vineyards of Seyssuel, just to the north of the old Roman town of Vienne. The role of the founders, Messrs Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard is now one of benevolent consultancy and today it is winemaker Pascal Lombard who is guiding the style and building the reputation. In the manner of the Sorcerer’s Apprentice, the off-spring has now out-grown all three of its progenitors, but this does not seem to have had a detrimental effect on quality, particularly with the Domaine wines, the best of which are offered below.
Bottle
£29.25
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Pierre-Jean, the former régisseur at Vins De Vienne, set up on his own four or five years ago, purchasing extremely classy and often long-established vineyards in the areas he knows best, that is to say in Seyssuel and St Joseph. The quality of his first full vintage in 2009 was as impressive as the volumes were small; in 2010 the both volumes and quality are on the up, the latter by more than the former…
Bottle
£32.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl12cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The re-emergence of Ferraton as a great producer has taken awhile, and for a year or so I felt that the quality of the wines actually merited greater plaudits than those hitherto garnered. That changed with the 2009s when a commentator who shall remain nameless, offered lavish praise, a praise which I suspect is equally merited with the excellent range of 2010s.Damien Brisset has some very well located vines and is now exploiting their potential with real skill.
Bottle
£38.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl15cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The hand-over from Robert to Rémi is technically complete, but Robert shows no sign of retiring and it is always good to see him when we go to taste the wines. His temperament is such, however, that his presence can only be positive, as he surveys the resumption of good work which he started, taking advantage of very good plots in both Condrieu, where they own 6 hectares, and Côte Rôtie (3 hectares) and transforming the Domaine from a merely very good one to one of the key references.
Bottle
£42.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl5cs
Simon Field MW - Buyer
The re-emergence of Ferraton as a great producer has taken awhile, and for a year or so I felt that the quality of the wines actually merited greater plaudits than those hitherto garnered. That changed with the 2009s when a commentator who shall remain nameless, offered lavish praise, a praise which I suspect is equally merited with the excellent range of 2010s.Damien Brisset has some very well located vines and is now exploiting their potential with real skill.
Bottle
£50.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl20cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The re-emergence of Ferraton as a great producer has taken awhile, and for a year or so I felt that the quality of the wines actually merited greater plaudits than those hitherto garnered. That changed with the 2009s when a commentator who shall remain nameless, offered lavish praise, a praise which I suspect is equally merited with the excellent range of 2010s.Damien Brisset has some very well located vines and is now exploiting their potential with real skill.
Bottle
£60.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl6cs
The supple 2010 Cornas offers attractive new oak in its straightforward bouquet of black cherries and roasted nuts, low acidity, and a tasty, chunky feel.
Bottle
£60.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl3cs
A south-facing granitic single vineyard, protected by cedar and oak trees, La Louvée (“she-wolf”, this one means) is aged for 24 months and is a beautifully aromatic wine, with notes of raspberry, blueberry and violets evidenced. The palate is silky and extremely long.
Bottle
£65.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl6cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Our relationship with Vincent Paris, the unassuming but talented nephew of Robert Michel, was momentarily threatened by what we felt to be far too much volatile acidity in his 2008 wines. Fortunately the error was both acknowledged and rectified; only the very able can be so humble in contrition, and the subsequent vintages have both been magnificent. Having such ideally-located vineyards is, of course, rather helpful in this regard.
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The brothers Pacsal and Vicent Maurel, with a little help from the larger-than-life and near-ubiquitous consultant Philippe Cambie, continue to work wonders with this famous old Domaine, which gets its first BBR listing this year. The property is similar in size to Beaucastel and also has some spectacular parcels of old vines, its centurion-holders mainly situated on the Crau plateau. The winemaking here is traditional, yet the wines themselves seem to marry tradition and modernity with effortless aplomb.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The alliance of two of the greatest houses of the Rhône, Jaboulet and Perrin, with Nicholas Jaboulet at its helm, was always a very promising one. The promise has quickly materialised and the 2010s are even better than the already excellent 2009s. The best sites and the best growers have been harnessed. As Nicolas eloquently puts it, the Perrins at Beaucastel exploit many different grapes on fundamentally the same terroir, but his goal here is to cultivate what is essential the same grape (albeit dependent on the colour of the wine) but in differing terroirs.
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Mark Sorrel is a thoughtful and talented vigneron, initially quite reserved, like his wines, but who needs to say much when one owns some of the finest holdings on the hill of Hermitage? . Despite having one foot firmly planted in the traditionalist camp, when it comes to such things as destemming and ageing, he invariably manages to produce wines of great elegance and poise. He compares 2010 with 1978 and 1961. And who needs to say more than that?
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Père et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin...
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Young, dynamic and handsome, Stéphane Ogier has had another good year, purchasing some more prime vineyards, making some fantastic 2010s and celebrating the birth of his first son, Marius. His wine-making philosophy is intriguing, minutely sensitive to the requirements of both the vintage and the parcel in question. As a generalisation he prefers new wood and destemming for the Côte Blonde, and older wood and less destemming in the Côte Brune. But there are always exceptions... and the wines are always exceptional...
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
A brilliant vintage for Côte-Rôtie, this is René’s favourite vintage of the past 20 years. Long maceration and low temperatures preserve the crystalline focus, yet the ripeness of the fruit gives a balance of opulent richness that makes this wine approachable in youth. There is finesse with black fruit precision with a touch of wet stone minerality, floral jasmine notes and herbs de provenance on the finish. Personally, I feel this wine as it represents the best of the Côte-Rôtie at a reasonable price. Though approachable now, this has the structure to age happily for a decade or more and will continue to give and give. If you have a case of this, I would open a bottle a year and track its progress.
Fine Wine Team
M Rostaing, or RR as we affectionately call him, is something of an enigma, a man giving all semblance of being a classicist, yet whose winemaking philosophy, with its use of rotary fermenters and pragmatic approach to destemming, is far from the old-school. His vocabulary, however, is pleasingly old-fashioned; he likes the 2010 vintage, as there is ‘une belle rigueur’, describing it as ‘Jansenist’ in temperament. The classicism now extends to the names of the wines; the wine formerly known as ‘Cuvée Classique’ has been renamed Ampodium, the Roman name for the town of Ampuis, and the location of his winery.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
M Rostaing, or RR as we affectionately call him, is something of an enigma, a man giving all semblance of being a classicist, yet whose winemaking philosophy, with its use of rotary fermenters and pragmatic approach to destemming, is far from the old-school. His vocabulary, however, is pleasingly old-fashioned; he likes the 2010 vintage, as there is ‘une belle rigueur’, describing it as ‘Jansenist’ in temperament. The classicism now extends to the names of the wines; the wine formerly known as ‘Cuvée Classique’ has been renamed Ampodium, the Roman name for the town of Ampuis, and the location of his winery.
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
This is wonderful quality wine from the masters of the Southern Rhône wines, the Perrin family. This seems expensive for a “lowly” Vinsobres, but a whiff of the wine in the glass tells you it’s anything but. It is full, rich, spicy and delicious, so in fact, great value for money!
(Chris Pollington, BBR Fine Wine)
The name Vinsobres, with its oxymoronic meaning, is easy to remember, and so it should be, as its fruits are amongst the purest and most elegant in the whole valley. Recognising potential, the Perrins have invested heavily here and this wine is, as a result a worthy flag-bearer for the village.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Père et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin...
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Traditional and complex are the words that spring to mind every time I taste the wines from Pegau. They never fail to reveal an almost ethereal nose of Asian spice, kirsch and roasted meat characteristics followed by a rich all-encompassing palate.
(Stuart Rae, BBR Fine Wine)
The 2010 Cuvée Reservée is a real treat. The wine is a blend, and as the vineyards, with the exception of the Syrah, are co-planted, one can only advise of its approximate make-up of 80% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 4% a variety of varietals. My ill-disciplined, excited tasting note runs as follows; ‘ Meaty, perfumed, violets, forest floor, black cherry and black tea, peat, herbal, fine acidity and incredibly elegant tannins, poetry’..so there we are.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
One must always expect the unexpected chez Pegau. This time we were greeted by a disembodied voice, seemingly from a distant echo chamber. It turned out that Laurence was cleaning out a foudre, from the inside, and had overlooked our arrival time. This hands-on approach is typical of an extraordinarily energetic vigneronne, who has risen to the very top by a winning and somewhat paradoxical combination of dogged determination and sheer hard work, flavoured with a dose of humility. Pegau is now seen as the very best of the ‘traditional’ Châteauneuf wines, most eloquently illustrated by the 2010s.
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl1cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl1cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl1cs
Magnum 6 x 150cl1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
One must always expect the unexpected chez Pegau. This time we were greeted by a disembodied voice, seemingly from a distant echo chamber. It turned out that Laurence was cleaning out a foudre, from the inside, and had overlooked our arrival time. This hands-on approach is typical of an extraordinarily energetic vigneronne, who has risen to the very top by a winning and somewhat paradoxical combination of dogged determination and sheer hard work, flavoured with a dose of humility. Pegau is now seen as the very best of the ‘traditional’ Châteauneuf wines, most eloquently illustrated by the 2010s.
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The Delorme brothers have, since 1986, forged an enviable reputation. They are based to the south-east in the village of Tavel, celebrated for its rosé wines, but they also own 4 hectares of vines on the Crau plateau of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and a very well-positioned parcel in Lirac. Christophe is adamant that 2010 is their best ever vintage; the key to its quality is the juxtaposition of trademark concentration and very fine tannins, much finer, he maintains than in 2007 or 2009, both highly successful years of course. Mordorée are aiming for full organic certification in 2013, aided in no small measure by the new member of the team…Sarko the horse…(at least I think that this is the name they gave!)
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
If one believes the old adage about imitation and flattery, then Les Vins de Vienne should be justifiably proud of the numerous growers now making wine from the ancient vineyards of Seyssuel, just to the north of the old Roman town of Vienne. The role of the founders, Messrs Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard is now one of benevolent consultancy and today it is winemaker Pascal Lombard who is guiding the style and building the reputation. In the manner of the Sorcerers Apprentice, the off-spring has now out-grown all three of its progenitors, but this does not seem to have had a detrimental effect on quality, particularly with the Domaine wines, the best of which are offered below.