2010 Rhone
My favourite Rhône wine vintages of the last decade have probably been the superlative 2001 and the relatively under-rated 2006, the latter more specifically in the North, whilst the South excelled in 2007. 2010 looks set to join their ranks and quite possibly beat the lot of them!
For Marc Perrin it is the best vintage in his experience, compared by him to 1985, which he just remembers, and by his parents to 1978 and 1962. Laurent Combier advises that it is the very best of the 22 vintages that he has made, and, more generally, Christophe Delorme at Domaine de la Mordorée describes it as the ‘best ever’. However one looks at it the word ‘best’ seems to come up quite frequently…. Hyperbole or truth? The vignerons know not to cry wolf and proclaim every year as their best, as the market is too mature and discerning for that.
Rhône 10 En Primeur - Reports & Blogs on a superlative vintage
- Vintage Report by Alun Griffiths MW and Martin Hudson MW
- Blog: 2010 in the Northern Rhône by Alun Griffiths MW
- Our New Producers at a glance by Martin Hudson MW
- Vintage Assessment & Top Rated Wines by J. Robinson MW
- Vintage Review & Top Rated Wines by R. Parker
So what exactly is so special about 2010?
The answer, somewhat paradoxically, lies in a negative, namely very poor fruit set, which has drastically reduced volumes but also increased concentrations and yields. It was more prevalent in the South, especially with Grenache, the grape often associated with fleshiness of fruit and high levels of alcohol.
The correspondingly increased significance in the blends, albeit by small degrees, of the Syrah and Mourvèdre varieties, allied to an unusually long growing season and a relatively mild August have all informed the style of the vintage. These are classic, structured wines of pedigree, with relatively high tannin and acidity levels (as in Bordeaux) but a wonderful purity and linearity.
Whilst not LS Lowry or Giacometti in Whilst not LS Lowry or Giacometti in physique, the wines are far from Rubenesque. 2009 was more ‘solaire’; 2010 is described by Marc Sorrel, with pithy precision, as ‘précis, droit et complexe’.
Classicism and aristocracy pervade the wines; Poussin, David and Claude are the most accurate artistic comparisons; vins de garde certainly, and to quote Nick Thompson at Ameillaud, ‘upstanding’ wines, with a touch of the Roundhead rather than the Cavalier about them, but with undoubted ageing potential.
Stéphane Ogier describes it as a connoisseur’s vintage, a vintage for the English rather than the American market. I’m sure he does not say the opposite when he is with his American importer.
Northern Rhône
A cold wettish winter cleaned out the vineyards and raised the water table. Snow, normally rare, caused complications in February on the Autoroute du Soleil all the way down to Avignon and beyond, setting the pattern for a delayed growing cycle and correspondingly late harvest, which strayed into October as in days of old! The mild early spring did not last and the flowering was tricky, the poor fruit-set the cause of the low yields later on.
A warm early summer ceded to a rather mild August and then pleasing conditions in early September. Midsummer was relatively dry, despite lacklustre temperatures, so a little modest rain in September was perfect to ensure an optimal coincidence of phenolic and physiological ripeness. The berries were almost universally small and thick-skinned but with discernible sweetness and, importantly, no bitterness in the pips at the time of picking.
The cool nights in summer have ensured freshness and good levels of acidity, which have made the whites particularly successful. Indeed the whites, to my mind, now bear comparison with any in France and some of the Condrieus possess levels of complexity that I have never encountered before. The reds are marked by low PH levels, and high polyphenols in the skins which have given Syrah superb definition of colour and exceptional ageing potential.
Jean-Michel Gerin praises the ‘equilibre’ of the wines; long seasons can result in high levels of sugar and alcohol and a lack of harmony. This is not the case here Indeed, overall alcohol levels are probably a notch beneath those of 2009, with acidity a shade higher..
René Rostaing and Jean-Louis Chave both praise the ‘rigour’ and the ‘Jansenist’ purity of the wines, and Francois Villard is excited by the complexity engendered over the long season. Yves Cuilleron, interestingly, describes 2010 as ‘le millésime de tannin’ comparing it to 2006.
The 2006s, as mentioned above, are now drinking superbly, while the initially more lauded 2005s are still battling with their muscular tannins. It seems that for the 2010 vintage, wines will have all the charm of the 2006s then, but with a little more gravitas and depth. Perfect for the cellar in other words.
Southern Rhône
Overall and quite unusually the weather patterns were quite similar in the South, but the effects of the poor fruit-set (coulure) were especially relevant to Grenache and the resulting yields were even more parsimonious. This was more of an issue in Châteauneuf-du-Pape than some of the hillside villages, such as Gigondas, which is two weeks behind in its vegetative cycle.
Vincent Avril at Clos des Papes may have, in this as in so many other ways, been exceptional with his yields of a mere 18 hl/ha, but the average for the whole of Châteauneuf-du-Pape was a not much higher at 27 hl/ha. Indeed given the low volumes, the quality of the vintage and the rapidly increasing international demand, it is pleasing that any price increases have been relatively modest. Long may it continue!
The 2009 wines were fatter, fleshier but sometimes undermined by slightly drying tannins at the back. As in the North, tannin management has been superb in the wines made south of Montélimar, and with the Grenache relatively subdued, the Mourvèdre and Syrah in particular have been allowed to show their worth, adding colour, shape and phenolic rigour.
The late harvest came after welcome rain around the 8th and then again the 24th September…the long hang-time, logically, increasing the influence of the soil on the grapes and justifying the near-ubiquitous ensuing references to ‘vins de terroir’. The volumes are miserly but the gold-standard of quality has never been stronger; indeed any intimations of austerity in the wines, in deference to parlous economic times, are quickly undermined by recognition of the equilibrium, finesse and quiet confidence of the 2010s.
Comparisons have been made with 2007, 1990 and 1978, all very pure and harmonious vintages, all universally applauded on release and on every possible occasion thereafter. This bodes exceptionally well for the vintage that was 2010…….
Simon Field MW, BBR Wine Buyer
Prices:
Bottle
£28.95
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The re-emergence of Ferraton as a great producer has taken awhile, and for a year or so I felt that the quality of the wines actually merited greater plaudits than those hitherto garnered. That changed with the 2009s when a commentator who shall remain nameless, offered lavish praise, a praise which I suspect is equally merited with the excellent range of 2010s.Damien Brisset has some very well located vines and is now exploiting their potential with real skill.
Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 26%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.Bottle
£38.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 13cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The re-emergence of Ferraton as a great producer has taken awhile, and for a year or so I felt that the quality of the wines actually merited greater plaudits than those hitherto garnered. That changed with the 2009s when a commentator who shall remain nameless, offered lavish praise, a praise which I suspect is equally merited with the excellent range of 2010s.Damien Brisset has some very well located vines and is now exploiting their potential with real skill.
Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 30%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.Bottle
£60.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 5cs
A south-facing granitic single vineyard, protected by cedar and oak trees, La Louvée (“she-wolf”, this one means) is aged for 24 months and is a beautifully aromatic wine, with notes of raspberry, blueberry and violets evidenced. The palate is silky and extremely long.
Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 25%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.
Bottle
£65.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 6cs
This is a very exciting Hermitage, traditional and faithful to this very “proper” vintage in its constitution, but with a classic lifted Syrah character which adds a certain ethereal magic. The stuff of the legendary Hermitages of yore…
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Jérôme Coursodon’s reputation continues to soar. Ideally placed vineyards and a perspective which inclines towards perfectionism have both helped him on his way. Add to that the extraordinary natural benevolence of the vintage, and his legacy seems secure. It is fantastic to see such a famous old estate performing so well.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Mark Sorrel is a thoughtful and talented vigneron, initially quite reserved, like his wines, but who needs to say much when one owns some of the finest holdings on the hill of Hermitage? . Despite having one foot firmly planted in the traditionalist camp, when it comes to such things as destemming and ageing, he invariably manages to produce wines of great elegance and poise. He compares 2010 with 1978 and 1961. And who needs to say more than that?
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Mark Sorrel is a thoughtful and talented vigneron, initially quite reserved, like his wines, but who needs to say much when one owns some of the finest holdings on the hill of Hermitage? . Despite having one foot firmly planted in the traditionalist camp, when it comes to such things as destemming and ageing, he invariably manages to produce wines of great elegance and poise. He compares 2010 with 1978 and 1961. And who needs to say more than that?
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Père et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin...
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Young, dynamic and handsome, Stéphane Ogier has had another good year, purchasing some more prime vineyards, making some fantastic 2010s and celebrating the birth of his first son, Marius. His wine-making philosophy is intriguing, minutely sensitive to the requirements of both the vintage and the parcel in question. As a generalisation he prefers new wood and destemming for the Côte Blonde, and older wood and less destemming in the Côte Brune. But there are always exceptions... and the wines are always exceptional...
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
A brilliant vintage for Côte-Rôtie, this is René’s favourite vintage of the past 20 years. Long maceration and low temperatures preserve the crystalline focus, yet the ripeness of the fruit gives a balance of opulent richness that makes this wine approachable in youth. There is finesse with black fruit precision with a touch of wet stone minerality, floral jasmine notes and herbs de provenance on the finish. Personally, I feel this wine as it represents the best of the Côte-Rôtie at a reasonable price. Though approachable now, this has the structure to age happily for a decade or more and will continue to give and give. If you have a case of this, I would open a bottle a year and track its progress.
Fine Wine Team
M Rostaing, or RR as we affectionately call him, is something of an enigma, a man giving all semblance of being a classicist, yet whose winemaking philosophy, with its use of rotary fermenters and pragmatic approach to destemming, is far from the old-school. His vocabulary, however, is pleasingly old-fashioned; he likes the 2010 vintage, as there is ‘une belle rigueur’, describing it as ‘Jansenist’ in temperament. The classicism now extends to the names of the wines; the wine formerly known as ‘Cuvée Classique’ has been renamed Ampodium, the Roman name for the town of Ampuis, and the location of his winery.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
M Rostaing, or RR as we affectionately call him, is something of an enigma, a man giving all semblance of being a classicist, yet whose winemaking philosophy, with its use of rotary fermenters and pragmatic approach to destemming, is far from the old-school. His vocabulary, however, is pleasingly old-fashioned; he likes the 2010 vintage, as there is ‘une belle rigueur’, describing it as ‘Jansenist’ in temperament. The classicism now extends to the names of the wines; the wine formerly known as ‘Cuvée Classique’ has been renamed Ampodium, the Roman name for the town of Ampuis, and the location of his winery.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
This is wonderful quality wine from the masters of the Southern Rhône wines, the Perrin family. This seems expensive for a “lowly” Vinsobres, but a whiff of the wine in the glass tells you it’s anything but. It is full, rich, spicy and delicious, so in fact, great value for money!
(Chris Pollington, BBR Fine Wine)
The name Vinsobres, with its oxymoronic meaning, is easy to remember, and so it should be, as its fruits are amongst the purest and most elegant in the whole valley. Recognising potential, the Perrins have invested heavily here and this wine is, as a result a worthy flag-bearer for the village.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Père et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin...
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.
Traditional and complex are the words that spring to mind every time I taste the wines from Pegau. They never fail to reveal an almost ethereal nose of Asian spice, kirsch and roasted meat characteristics followed by a rich all-encompassing palate.
(Stuart Rae, BBR Fine Wine)
The 2010 Cuvée Reservée is a real treat. The wine is a blend, and as the vineyards, with the exception of the Syrah, are co-planted, one can only advise of its approximate make-up of 80% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 4% a variety of varietals. My ill-disciplined, excited tasting note runs as follows; ‘ Meaty, perfumed, violets, forest floor, black cherry and black tea, peat, herbal, fine acidity and incredibly elegant tannins, poetry’..so there we are.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
One must always expect the unexpected chez Pegau. This time we were greeted by a disembodied voice, seemingly from a distant echo chamber. It turned out that Laurence was cleaning out a foudre, from the inside, and had overlooked our arrival time. This hands-on approach is typical of an extraordinarily energetic vigneronne, who has risen to the very top by a winning and somewhat paradoxical combination of dogged determination and sheer hard work, flavoured with a dose of humility. Pegau is now seen as the very best of the ‘traditional’ Châteauneuf wines, most eloquently illustrated by the 2010s.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
One must always expect the unexpected chez Pegau. This time we were greeted by a disembodied voice, seemingly from a distant echo chamber. It turned out that Laurence was cleaning out a foudre, from the inside, and had overlooked our arrival time. This hands-on approach is typical of an extraordinarily energetic vigneronne, who has risen to the very top by a winning and somewhat paradoxical combination of dogged determination and sheer hard work, flavoured with a dose of humility. Pegau is now seen as the very best of the ‘traditional’ Châteauneuf wines, most eloquently illustrated by the 2010s.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The Delorme brothers have, since 1986, forged an enviable reputation. They are based to the south-east in the village of Tavel, celebrated for its rosé wines, but they also own 4 hectares of vines on the Crau plateau of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and a very well-positioned parcel in Lirac. Christophe is adamant that 2010 is their best ever vintage; the key to its quality is the juxtaposition of trademark concentration and very fine tannins, much finer, he maintains than in 2007 or 2009, both highly successful years of course. Mordorée are aiming for full organic certification in 2013, aided in no small measure by the new member of the team…Sarko the horse…(at least I think that this is the name they gave!)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
2010 marks a spectacular return to form for this excellent Domaine which is based in St Peray and which has been no stranger to BBR over the years. . From the more traditional end of the spectrum, which in terms of Cornas means wines of incalculable gravitas, the Voge wines are now vinified by Chapoutier alumnus, Albert Mazoyers, and have never been better...
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 3 x 75cl 1cs
Magnum 1 x 150cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Our first visit of our Southern Rhône week, and a most agreeable one, despite the early hour, Charbonnière continues to excel and, forgive the tautology, to develop as a classic traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The transition from père Michel to daughters Véronique and Caroline has been seamless and the quality gets better and better. Véronique compares 2010 with 2005 and 2000; for her 2009 was more like 2007, with a little more ‘residual’ sugar, courtesy of the Grenache.
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Of all the large Négociant Houses in the Rhône, Chapoutier is by far the most quality-driven and the most impressive. Michel can be described as pragmatic, enigmatic, dogmatic and probably several less flattering terms, but he is certainly driven, both by a biodynamic philosophy which does not brook short-cuts and by a deep almost atavistic communion with the soil which, amazingly, is applied to his entire production. The fact that his workers’ canteen, which certainly looks like a workers’ canteen, actually serves food which should, by rights, be re and awarded with a Michelin star, is telling indeed…
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Of all the large Négociant Houses in the Rhône, Chapoutier is by far the most quality-driven and the most impressive. Michel can be described as pragmatic, enigmatic, dogmatic and probably several less flattering terms, but he is certainly driven, both by a biodynamic philosophy which does not brook short-cuts and by a deep almost atavistic communion with the soil which, amazingly, is applied to his entire production. The fact that his workers’ canteen, which certainly looks like a workers’ canteen, actually serves food which should, by rights, be re and awarded with a Michelin star, is telling indeed…
Bottle 6 x 75cl 6cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Roger Sabon always produces Châteauneuf-du-Pape on the more elegant side and in 2010 he has combined this elegance with verve, vibrancy and focus. Beneath this is a depth and complexity of fruit which combines beautifully to produce a true vin de garde.
Gary Owen, Fine Wine Account Manager
With very old vines in the heart of Le Crau, Cabrieres and Courthezon, the Sabons are in prime position to produce excellent Châteuneuf-du-Pape and in 2010 have produced a brilliant Cuvée Prestige that is a true reflection of terroir. The 2010 blend is similar to 2009 with 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and the remainders Mourvedre, Counoise and Cinsault. The wine is aged in a combination of foudres, barrels and demi-muids. Nearly opaque in the glass, the wine displays beautiful richness, incredible depth of dark fruit and a touch of Asian spice balanced with sufficient freshness to give an elegant lift. Very fine tannins produce a structure that will reward patient cellaring for at least 5 years, but even better over the next 10-15 years.
Fine Wine Team
An embarrassment of cépages here; cast in order of appearance is Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Counoise and Vaccarese. Aged in a combination of new and older foudre, this is a dense and exceptionally powerful wine, with something of 2005 in its tannic structure, but a fruit profile which is more closely reminiscent of 2007. Blackberry confit, bacon rind and forest floor...it sounds like an odd combination, but it certainly works!
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Didier Negron is the son-in-law of Jean-Jacques Sabon, who tragically died at the end of 2011 after a long illness. Didier is now the chief winemaker at this increasingly impressive property.. He certainly talks the talk, fluently in English as we found out latterly, but to no great surprise, given his ability elsewhere. Owning 15 parcels across 17 hectares over the appellation, Domaine Sabon produce four cuvées of red, the most famous of which is seen as one of the very best wines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The secret is out!
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Jean-Baptiste Meunier took over this ancient family estate (dating from 1670, it is even older than BBR!) in 1988 and has quietly brought it to its current size of 9 hectares, with some of the Grenache vines now having achieved centurion status. Organic by inclination and with the occasional biodynamic impulse, Jean -Baptiste makes some of the best Gigondas that is available today.
Cuvée Ventabren is all aged in oak, relatively young Burgundian oak to be precise. There is no Mourvèdre in this blend but 20% of Syrah has been added (70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Cinsualt) . From the excellent, poised 2010 this is a superb Gigondas, with a ripe forest floor nose and a profoundly satisfying palate, the confluence of the taster’s adulation matched by the harmonious interplay of tannin, fruit and acidity. Far from the rough and drying tannins that one has, for whatever reason, come to associate with Gigondas, this is a supremely harmonious exemplar.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Our pilgrimage to Romeros pre et fils was more difficult than usual this year; there was a route barre sign at one end of the only approach roadfair enough.but then 10 minutes later there was another one at the other end of the same road. The detour was worth it, of course. The unique clay-based terroir is now given more expression as the barriques have been removed, probably at significant expense, and replaced by larger upright foudres, which allow the full aromatic potential of these low-yielding vines full and eloquent expression.