2010 Rhone
My favourite Rhône wine vintages of the last decade have probably been the superlative 2001 and the relatively under-rated 2006, the latter more specifically in the North, whilst the South excelled in 2007. 2010 looks set to join their ranks and quite possibly beat the lot of them!
For Marc Perrin it is the best vintage in his experience, compared by him to 1985, which he just remembers, and by his parents to 1978 and 1962. Laurent Combier advises that it is the very best of the 22 vintages that he has made, and, more generally, Christophe Delorme at Domaine de la Mordorée describes it as the ‘best ever’. However one looks at it the word ‘best’ seems to come up quite frequently…. Hyperbole or truth? The vignerons know not to cry wolf and proclaim every year as their best, as the market is too mature and discerning for that.
Rhône 10 En Primeur - Reports & Blogs on a superlative vintage
- Vintage Report by Alun Griffiths MW and Martin Hudson MW
- Blog: 2010 in the Northern Rhône by Alun Griffiths MW
- Our New Producers at a glance by Martin Hudson MW
- Vintage Assessment & Top Rated Wines by J. Robinson MW
- Vintage Review & Top Rated Wines by R. Parker
So what exactly is so special about 2010?
The answer, somewhat paradoxically, lies in a negative, namely very poor fruit set, which has drastically reduced volumes but also increased concentrations and yields. It was more prevalent in the South, especially with Grenache, the grape often associated with fleshiness of fruit and high levels of alcohol.
The correspondingly increased significance in the blends, albeit by small degrees, of the Syrah and Mourvèdre varieties, allied to an unusually long growing season and a relatively mild August have all informed the style of the vintage. These are classic, structured wines of pedigree, with relatively high tannin and acidity levels (as in Bordeaux) but a wonderful purity and linearity.
Whilst not LS Lowry or Giacometti in Whilst not LS Lowry or Giacometti in physique, the wines are far from Rubenesque. 2009 was more ‘solaire’; 2010 is described by Marc Sorrel, with pithy precision, as ‘précis, droit et complexe’.
Classicism and aristocracy pervade the wines; Poussin, David and Claude are the most accurate artistic comparisons; vins de garde certainly, and to quote Nick Thompson at Ameillaud, ‘upstanding’ wines, with a touch of the Roundhead rather than the Cavalier about them, but with undoubted ageing potential.
Stéphane Ogier describes it as a connoisseur’s vintage, a vintage for the English rather than the American market. I’m sure he does not say the opposite when he is with his American importer.
Northern Rhône
A cold wettish winter cleaned out the vineyards and raised the water table. Snow, normally rare, caused complications in February on the Autoroute du Soleil all the way down to Avignon and beyond, setting the pattern for a delayed growing cycle and correspondingly late harvest, which strayed into October as in days of old! The mild early spring did not last and the flowering was tricky, the poor fruit-set the cause of the low yields later on.
A warm early summer ceded to a rather mild August and then pleasing conditions in early September. Midsummer was relatively dry, despite lacklustre temperatures, so a little modest rain in September was perfect to ensure an optimal coincidence of phenolic and physiological ripeness. The berries were almost universally small and thick-skinned but with discernible sweetness and, importantly, no bitterness in the pips at the time of picking.
The cool nights in summer have ensured freshness and good levels of acidity, which have made the whites particularly successful. Indeed the whites, to my mind, now bear comparison with any in France and some of the Condrieus possess levels of complexity that I have never encountered before. The reds are marked by low PH levels, and high polyphenols in the skins which have given Syrah superb definition of colour and exceptional ageing potential.
Jean-Michel Gerin praises the ‘equilibre’ of the wines; long seasons can result in high levels of sugar and alcohol and a lack of harmony. This is not the case here Indeed, overall alcohol levels are probably a notch beneath those of 2009, with acidity a shade higher..
René Rostaing and Jean-Louis Chave both praise the ‘rigour’ and the ‘Jansenist’ purity of the wines, and Francois Villard is excited by the complexity engendered over the long season. Yves Cuilleron, interestingly, describes 2010 as ‘le millésime de tannin’ comparing it to 2006.
The 2006s, as mentioned above, are now drinking superbly, while the initially more lauded 2005s are still battling with their muscular tannins. It seems that for the 2010 vintage, wines will have all the charm of the 2006s then, but with a little more gravitas and depth. Perfect for the cellar in other words.
Southern Rhône
Overall and quite unusually the weather patterns were quite similar in the South, but the effects of the poor fruit-set (coulure) were especially relevant to Grenache and the resulting yields were even more parsimonious. This was more of an issue in Châteauneuf-du-Pape than some of the hillside villages, such as Gigondas, which is two weeks behind in its vegetative cycle.
Vincent Avril at Clos des Papes may have, in this as in so many other ways, been exceptional with his yields of a mere 18 hl/ha, but the average for the whole of Châteauneuf-du-Pape was a not much higher at 27 hl/ha. Indeed given the low volumes, the quality of the vintage and the rapidly increasing international demand, it is pleasing that any price increases have been relatively modest. Long may it continue!
The 2009 wines were fatter, fleshier but sometimes undermined by slightly drying tannins at the back. As in the North, tannin management has been superb in the wines made south of Montélimar, and with the Grenache relatively subdued, the Mourvèdre and Syrah in particular have been allowed to show their worth, adding colour, shape and phenolic rigour.
The late harvest came after welcome rain around the 8th and then again the 24th September…the long hang-time, logically, increasing the influence of the soil on the grapes and justifying the near-ubiquitous ensuing references to ‘vins de terroir’. The volumes are miserly but the gold-standard of quality has never been stronger; indeed any intimations of austerity in the wines, in deference to parlous economic times, are quickly undermined by recognition of the equilibrium, finesse and quiet confidence of the 2010s.
Comparisons have been made with 2007, 1990 and 1978, all very pure and harmonious vintages, all universally applauded on release and on every possible occasion thereafter. This bodes exceptionally well for the vintage that was 2010…….
Simon Field MW, BBR Wine Buyer
Prices:
Bottle
£32.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 3cs
Magnum
£370.00
Case price (Bottle 6 x 75cl)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
H/Bottle 3 x 37.5cl 1cs
H/Bottle 3 x 37.5cl 1cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 3 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Our visit to Yves this year, despite its first-after-lunch graveyard slot, was one of the best of them all. Perhaps it was a fruit day! The wines were singing and Yves was composed and confident, clearly very happy with the vintage. For him the long ripening season of 2010, with its significant diurnal temperature variations, was the key to quality. The vigneron’s Grand Master chess skills were fully exercised in the decision of when to harvest… a tricky decision of course, each plot being different, but now, finally I understand the purpose of each of the many varied cuvées in the range and there appears to be some stability and a real sense of purpose in the winemaking….and not too much new oak now…..The enfant terrible has really come of age…
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The evocative names of the surrounding landmarks, specifically the Plateau Des Garrigues and the Dentelles De Montmirail, provide a scenic geographical backdrop to Laurent Daniel’s vineyards. Silky elegance, real Mediterranean warmth and finely balanced tannins are the secrets to Laurent’s success, not forgetting more prosaic factors such as timely picking of the grapes and attention to detail in the winery.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Vincent Avril, in a typically fascinating tasting, had prepared four pre-assemblages, of which one was set to be closest to the final blend. The differences between the four, with their varying degree of differing grapes, from differing sites, was extremely instructive. All were excellent but the final foudre seemed to be richer, longer and more complete. A very valuable lesson in the blender’s art, and for Vincent, all the components are vital, hence his insistence, probably in defiance of huge commercial reward, to resist the temptation of creating a super or deluxe cuvée. Such integrity is to be celebrated, most appropriately with a glass of Clos des Papes in one’s hand!
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Magnum 3 x 150cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The brothers Pacsal and Vicent Maurel, with a little help from the larger-than-life and near-ubiquitous consultant Philippe Cambie, continue to work wonders with this famous old Domaine, which gets its first BBR listing this year. The property is similar in size to Beaucastel and also has some spectacular parcels of old vines, its centurion-holders mainly situated on the Crau plateau. The winemaking here is traditional, yet the wines themselves seem to marry tradition and modernity with effortless aplomb.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The brothers Pacsal and Vicent Maurel, with a little help from the larger-than-life and near-ubiquitous consultant Philippe Cambie, continue to work wonders with this famous old Domaine, which gets its first BBR listing this year. The property is similar in size to Beaucastel and also has some spectacular parcels of old vines, its centurion-holders mainly situated on the Crau plateau. The winemaking here is traditional, yet the wines themselves seem to marry tradition and modernity with effortless aplomb.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
2010 marks a spectacular return to form for this excellent Domaine which is based in St Peray and which has been no stranger to BBR over the years. . From the more traditional end of the spectrum, which in terms of Cornas means wines of incalculable gravitas, the Voge wines are now vinified by Chapoutier alumnus, Albert Mazoyers, and have never been better...
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Jérôme Coursodon’s reputation continues to soar. Ideally placed vineyards and a perspective which inclines towards perfectionism have both helped him on his way. Add to that the extraordinary natural benevolence of the vintage, and his legacy seems secure. It is fantastic to see such a famous old estate performing so well.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 8cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 3cs
This wine offers outstanding value from the Northern Rhône – an area which excelled in 2010. Beautifully pitched; the fruit is generous and bright, there’s plenty of texture and depth to the palate, but also a silky elegance throughout.
(Martyn Rolph, BBR Fine Wine)
Rich, fleshy but with very refined and supple tannins. Only 5% of new oak is employed but the wine is polished and dense with damson and morello cherry vying for attention.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012)
Jérôme Coursodon’s reputation continues to soar. Ideally placed vineyards and a perspective which inclines towards perfectionism have both helped him on his way. Add to that the extraordinary natural benevolence of the vintage, and his legacy seems secure. It is fantastic to see such a famous old estate performing so well.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Mark Sorrel is a thoughtful and talented vigneron, initially quite reserved, like his wines, but who needs to say much when one owns some of the finest holdings on the hill of Hermitage? . Despite having one foot firmly planted in the traditionalist camp, when it comes to such things as destemming and ageing, he invariably manages to produce wines of great elegance and poise. He compares 2010 with 1978 and 1961. And who needs to say more than that?
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
The nose, palate and finish are repleate with dark red fruits and wonderful detail from touches of blueberry and those textbook Châteauneuf notes of gun and wood smoke, brooding Southern French herbs and a touch of fine marzipan and luxurious Christmas cake.
Gary Owen, Fine Wine Dept., Private Account Manager
Grenache makes up 75% of the blend here, a little less than usual as a result of the coulure at flowering time. This has allowed the remaining shareholders, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Muscardin and Vaccarese to really strut their stuff, a dance garlanded with herbs and spice and beautifully delicate tannins.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
The brothers Pacsal and Vicent Maurel, with a little help from the larger-than-life and near-ubiquitous consultant Philippe Cambie, continue to work wonders with this famous old Domaine, which gets its first BBR listing this year. The property is similar in size to Beaucastel and also has some spectacular parcels of old vines, its centurion-holders mainly situated on the Crau plateau. The winemaking here is traditional, yet the wines themselves seem to marry tradition and modernity with effortless aplomb.
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Chteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Pre et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Père et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin...
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Young, dynamic and handsome, Stéphane Ogier has had another good year, purchasing some more prime vineyards, making some fantastic 2010s and celebrating the birth of his first son, Marius. His wine-making philosophy is intriguing, minutely sensitive to the requirements of both the vintage and the parcel in question. As a generalisation he prefers new wood and destemming for the Côte Blonde, and older wood and less destemming in the Côte Brune. But there are always exceptions... and the wines are always exceptional...
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Young, dynamic and handsome, Stéphane Ogier has had another good year, purchasing some more prime vineyards, making some fantastic 2010s and celebrating the birth of his first son, Marius. His wine-making philosophy is intriguing, minutely sensitive to the requirements of both the vintage and the parcel in question. As a generalisation he prefers new wood and destemming for the Côte Blonde, and older wood and less destemming in the Côte Brune. But there are always exceptions... and the wines are always exceptional...
Magnum 6 x 150cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
A brilliant vintage for Côte-Rôtie, this is René’s favourite vintage of the past 20 years. Long maceration and low temperatures preserve the crystalline focus, yet the ripeness of the fruit gives a balance of opulent richness that makes this wine approachable in youth. There is finesse with black fruit precision with a touch of wet stone minerality, floral jasmine notes and herbs de provenance on the finish. Personally, I feel this wine as it represents the best of the Côte-Rôtie at a reasonable price. Though approachable now, this has the structure to age happily for a decade or more and will continue to give and give. If you have a case of this, I would open a bottle a year and track its progress.
Fine Wine Team
M Rostaing, or RR as we affectionately call him, is something of an enigma, a man giving all semblance of being a classicist, yet whose winemaking philosophy, with its use of rotary fermenters and pragmatic approach to destemming, is far from the old-school. His vocabulary, however, is pleasingly old-fashioned; he likes the 2010 vintage, as there is ‘une belle rigueur’, describing it as ‘Jansenist’ in temperament. The classicism now extends to the names of the wines; the wine formerly known as ‘Cuvée Classique’ has been renamed Ampodium, the Roman name for the town of Ampuis, and the location of his winery.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
M Rostaing, or RR as we affectionately call him, is something of an enigma, a man giving all semblance of being a classicist, yet whose winemaking philosophy, with its use of rotary fermenters and pragmatic approach to destemming, is far from the old-school. His vocabulary, however, is pleasingly old-fashioned; he likes the 2010 vintage, as there is ‘une belle rigueur’, describing it as ‘Jansenist’ in temperament. The classicism now extends to the names of the wines; the wine formerly known as ‘Cuvée Classique’ has been renamed Ampodium, the Roman name for the town of Ampuis, and the location of his winery.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
M Rostaing, or RR as we affectionately call him, is something of an enigma, a man giving all semblance of being a classicist, yet whose winemaking philosophy, with its use of rotary fermenters and pragmatic approach to destemming, is far from the old-school. His vocabulary, however, is pleasingly old-fashioned; he likes the 2010 vintage, as there is ‘une belle rigueur’, describing it as ‘Jansenist’ in temperament. The classicism now extends to the names of the wines; the wine formerly known as ‘Cuvée Classique’ has been renamed Ampodium, the Roman name for the town of Ampuis, and the location of his winery.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.
Traditional and complex are the words that spring to mind every time I taste the wines from Pegau. They never fail to reveal an almost ethereal nose of Asian spice, kirsch and roasted meat characteristics followed by a rich all-encompassing palate.
(Stuart Rae, BBR Fine Wine)
The 2010 Cuvée Reservée is a real treat. The wine is a blend, and as the vineyards, with the exception of the Syrah, are co-planted, one can only advise of its approximate make-up of 80% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 4% a variety of varietals. My ill-disciplined, excited tasting note runs as follows; ‘ Meaty, perfumed, violets, forest floor, black cherry and black tea, peat, herbal, fine acidity and incredibly elegant tannins, poetry’..so there we are.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
One must always expect the unexpected chez Pegau. This time we were greeted by a disembodied voice, seemingly from a distant echo chamber. It turned out that Laurence was cleaning out a foudre, from the inside, and had overlooked our arrival time. This hands-on approach is typical of an extraordinarily energetic vigneronne, who has risen to the very top by a winning and somewhat paradoxical combination of dogged determination and sheer hard work, flavoured with a dose of humility. Pegau is now seen as the very best of the ‘traditional’ Châteauneuf wines, most eloquently illustrated by the 2010s.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
One must always expect the unexpected chez Pegau. This time we were greeted by a disembodied voice, seemingly from a distant echo chamber. It turned out that Laurence was cleaning out a foudre, from the inside, and had overlooked our arrival time. This hands-on approach is typical of an extraordinarily energetic vigneronne, who has risen to the very top by a winning and somewhat paradoxical combination of dogged determination and sheer hard work, flavoured with a dose of humility. Pegau is now seen as the very best of the ‘traditional’ Châteauneuf wines, most eloquently illustrated by the 2010s.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The Delorme brothers have, since 1986, forged an enviable reputation. They are based to the south-east in the village of Tavel, celebrated for its rosé wines, but they also own 4 hectares of vines on the Crau plateau of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and a very well-positioned parcel in Lirac. Christophe is adamant that 2010 is their best ever vintage; the key to its quality is the juxtaposition of trademark concentration and very fine tannins, much finer, he maintains than in 2007 or 2009, both highly successful years of course. Mordorée are aiming for full organic certification in 2013, aided in no small measure by the new member of the team…Sarko the horse…(at least I think that this is the name they gave!)
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Pierre-Jean, the former régisseur at Vins De Vienne, set up on his own four or five years ago, purchasing extremely classy and often long-established vineyards in the areas he knows best, that is to say in Seyssuel and St Joseph. The quality of his first full vintage in 2009 was as impressive as the volumes were small; in 2010 the both volumes and quality are on the up, the latter by more than the former…