2011 Rhone
2011 has yielded a larger, more normal harvest and a set of wines which will not fail to please. In point of fact they are closer in style to 2006 than 2008, having more energy and equilibrium than the latter. Stéphane Ogier describes the vintage as ‘gourmande’, ‘digeste’ and ‘séduisant’.
Vintage Assessment Northern Rhône
Michel Chapoutier is not alone in detecting similarities between 2011 and 1991. Both followed a brace of superlative vintages and both had rather uneven growing seasons, unusual even. Indeed 1991 took rather a long time to achieve its due recognition; hopefully the same will not apply to 2011, for all the sound and fury associated with its immediate forebears.
The vintage, in a nutshell, was hot, then cold, then hot again, a meteorological sandwich which defied normal weather patterns to the point of near inversion. Temperatures normally associated with July were experienced in both March and September, and vice versa. The early and admittedly highly satisfactory flowering presaged predictions of a very early harvest and ignited concern about an inherent imbalance between polyphenolic and physiological ripeness, but no sooner had the lacklustre mid-summer dispelled this fear, than anxiety focused on the dangers of rot, mildew (oidium) and other such disagreeable phenomena.
So there was triage and so there were treatments and then, recalling 2002 perhaps, there was abundant rainfall in the first week of September – abundant, but not torrential, and not especially long in duration. Thereafter followed a long anti-cyclonic period and the warm weather described above. It was warm enough, certainly, to exile any vestigial threats of disease and to ensure that the grapes ripened properly. It was ripe, certainly, but not too ripe; the cooler midsummer nights have added definition and pleasing freshness to the white wines.
Harvest dates were generally fairly ‘normal’, if such a word still has currency, and most of the fruit had been successfully picked by the end of the second week of September. Careful selection was required to undermine the vagaries of the uneven ripening, but the final crop was of a respectable size and the resultant grape juice achieved impressive analytical levels, careless of the season’s challenges.
Vintage Assessment Southern Rhône
The South does not recall 1991 with quite as much nostalgia as the North, so we shall restrict anecdotal comparisons to more recent vintages, although no-one seemed to agree on a specific vintage to highlight. The most nominated candidates were, in order: 2006, 1999, 2001 and 2004. To complicate the issue yet further, for Vincent Avril the wines have the tannins of the rather plush 2009 and the elegance of the underrated 2008 – therefore the best features of both.
Comparisons are perhaps odious after all, especially after such a heterogeneous and unpredictable season. Following pretty much the same weather patterns as further up-stream, 2011 started with a very hot and dry spring (the subsequent rainfall in July entirely beneficial) with any potential damage immediately banished by the Mistral wind.
It was only hereafter, when one has every right to expect decent weather, that things became more complicated. Indeed, it was the combination of further uninspiring conditions at the beginning of August and exceptionally warm conditions towards the end of that month, which engendered confusion and resulted in a rather uneven ripening. The late-season grapes such as Mourvèdre and Counoise tended to out-perform the earlier ripening varieties such as Syrah and Cinsault (some of which were shocked into a shut-down phase when the unexpected heat returned and did not have sufficient time to recover properly).
Grenache, after the blight of coulure in 2010, fared well. As a result, it makes up a larger percentage of the blends once again, triggering, as always, the seemingly circular debates about excessive alcohol levels and over-ripe wines. One cannot have it both ways; these wines have delightful, charming, sweet fruit and supple, approachable tannins. More quantity, less tannin; more approachable, less alcohol. These wines may be less immediately seductive to those for whom concentration is all but are certainly more attractive for the rest of us. In short, they are a pure delight.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Buyer
Prices:
Bottle
£29.25
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
The soil here is a combination of stony red clay and blue marl, the former contributing considerable finesse, the latter power and depth of flavour. Eschewing destemming and any form of intervention in terms of ageing vessel, Adrien Roustan has coaxed a fruit basket of flavour from his old vines. Poised tannins and impressive length complete the picture.
Bottle
£29.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 8cs
Emmanuel’s holdings in “St Jo” are (it has to be said) modest; they comprise 70 metres squared inherited from father-in-law Bernard Faurie. Only 2,000 bottles are produced from these 30-year-old vines which are located on granitic slopes behind Mauves. The wine is full of bright, peppery fruit with crushed rock and bayleaf in support.
Bottle
£33.45
Bottle 12 x 75cl 9cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Teamwork is the name of the game chez Maret, with Michel lending expertise to the vinification, Caroline demonstrating aptitude in all matters viticultural, Veronique developing commercial skill and Madame Maret (after whose Christian name I would not presume to enquire) being a very gifted talker. The wines are eloquent too; for Véronique 2011 was not a great year for Syrah. On the other hand Grenache, which dominates the blend, is perceived as a great success, eschewing the dangerously high alcohol levels of the warmer years in favour for something approaching The Golden Mean.
Bottle
£35.05
Bottle 6 x 75cl 10cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Marie Giraud had deserved the recent flood of plaudits from the great and the good, including one rather influential commentator. With initial guidance from another larger than life character, oenologist Philippe Cambie, she has adopted a biodynamic approach across 18 hectares of vines, most of which are located to the east of the commune. In the early days I was anxious that extraction was concealing fruit quality; this is no longer the case.
Bottle
£36.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 18cs
Tom Cave, Cellar Plan Manager
From the named lieu-dit to the north of the named village, this is a worthy illustration of both the skill of the winemaker and the renaissance of Cornas in general. Herbal and rich, with hints of jambon cru and liqueur-steeped cherry, Les Eygats marries sweet and savoury, Carnival and Lent, with effortless aplomb.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Ferraton is owned by Chapoutier, but run as an autonomous entity. For a long time it seemed to underperform, almost as if shocked in the headlights of the energetic charisma of its benefactor. The potential of the vineyards, some of which are located on the very best sites on the Hill of Hermitage, has never been disputed. Now, with Bordelais winemaker Damien Brisset firmly in control, one begins to see, at last, the realisation of potential. I am pleased to have ‘stuck with’ them over the years, as the maturing vintages seldom fail to please and the quality of the current vintage gets better and better.
Bottle
£37.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 13cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The loquacious Didier Negron recognises that Grenache was plentiful in 2011, unlike the coulure-blighted 2010, but that it had to be treated with care. The juxtaposition of an impressive early flowering and a cool but dry mid-season has engendered a heterogeneous crop, rather like 2007, but in a minor key. Didier’s clever manipulation of differing sizes of container in order to undermine the oxidative nature of Grenache, has ensured the purity and definition of his wines. He is proving a most worthy successor to the great Jean-Jacques Sabon, his father-in-law, who died last year. Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 27%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.
Bottle
£39.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 12cs
Fergus Stewart, Private Account Manager
This, the Gerin’s largest cuvée of Côte-Rôtie, summed up perfectly all the best of the vintage with a gloriously plump, dark fruit nose followed by firm fruit. A very refreshing, classic Northern Rhône for all occasions.
Tom Cave, Cellar Plan Manager
The reduction in the percentage of new barrique has been rewarded with more aromatic definition and greater purity en bouche. A blend from granitic Blonde and schistous Brune, with a single digit Viognier representation, this fantastic wine will age with ease for a decade and never fail to give pleasure.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Try as one might, it is impossible not to like Jean-Michel Gerin. In the early days I was so persistent going up to him every year at Ampuis, requesting UK exclusivity, that his dead-pan ‘non’ became something of an in-joke. When ‘non’ turned to ‘oui’, five or six years ago, a very successful partnership was initiated. His sons Mickael and Alexei are now a key part of the operation. 2011 was phenolically mature by the end of the first week of September, so they picked relatively early, and everyone is very pleased with the results.
Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 27%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.
Bottle
£39.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 4cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Now respected as one of St Joseph’s top three growers, the naturally diffident Jérôme has acquired new confidence, and the wines return the compliment. The pedigree of their birth, that is to say the best, most precipitous, site in St Jean de Muzols, Tournon and Mauves, is now underlined by a suitably prestigious education, which is far from sentimental. For Jérôme, 2010 captures the best of 2006 and 2007, both of which have grown up very nicely indeed.
Bottle
£39.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 25cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Now respected as one of St Joseph’s top three growers, the naturally diffident Jérôme has acquired new confidence, and the wines return the compliment. The pedigree of their birth, that is to say the best, most precipitous, site in St Jean de Muzols, Tournon and Mauves, is now underlined by a suitably prestigious education, which is far from sentimental. For Jérôme, 2010 captures the best of 2006 and 2007, both of which have grown up very nicely indeed.
Bottle
£42.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 9cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Christophe and Fabrice Delorme did not take long to project this fine estate, named somewhat poetically after a woodcock, into the first division. Based in Tavel, theoretically rather unhelpfully as most activity takes place over on the other side of the Rhône river, the brothers make, as one would expect, delicious Rosé wine in addition to a very fine Lirac and a Châteauneuf-du-Pape which combines the best virtues of modernity and tradition. 2011 was especially successful for them; they attribute the high natural sugar levels to biodynamic viticulture.
Bottle
£45.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 15cs
In top years, such as this, when Rose Pourpre is made, the generic Côte-Rôtie tends to come from vineyards of a more Blonde persuasion, its 10 percent Viognier lending high-toned aromatic harmony to the ensemble. The palate is creamy and rich, with ripe raspberry and cassis, and its style is modern but seductive.
Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 27%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.
Bottle
£45.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 7cs
Daniel Brunier is forthright in describing the 2011 vintage, “We took some risks waiting for the end of the harvest,” which was for this reason extended for nearly a month. The risks have clearly paid off. The 45-day maceration and extended maturation cannot hide the exuberant come-hither of the fruit. Beyond all this, as always, there is real depth with spicy, red-berry fruit now in the ascendant and the darker more saturnine notes, courtesy of the Mourvèdre, left to wait.
Bottle
£50.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 23cs
Magnum 3 x 150cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Try as one might, it is impossible not to like Jean-Michel Gerin. In the early days I was so persistent going up to him every year at Ampuis, requesting UK exclusivity, that his dead-pan ‘non’ became something of an in-joke. When ‘non’ turned to ‘oui’, five or six years ago, a very successful partnership was initiated. His sons Mickael and Alexei are now a key part of the operation. 2011 was phenolically mature by the end of the first week of September, so they picked relatively early, and everyone is very pleased with the results.
Bottle
£50.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 10cs
The barrel tasting is instructive as one can clearly define the differences between Blonde and Brune. The rule of thumb involves adding more stems into the Brune and using a higher ratio of new barrique for the Blonde. If this appears counter-intuitive, it certainly does not fail to work. This is archetypical Côte-Rôtie; the sweet and the savoury dance a supremely elegant pas de deux.
Bottle
£50.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Ferraton is owned by Chapoutier, but run as an autonomous entity. For a long time it seemed to underperform, almost as if shocked in the headlights of the energetic charisma of its benefactor. The potential of the vineyards, some of which are located on the very best sites on the Hill of Hermitage, has never been disputed. Now, with Bordelais winemaker Damien Brisset firmly in control, one begins to see, at last, the realisation of potential. I am pleased to have ‘stuck with’ them over the years, as the maturing vintages seldom fail to please and the quality of the current vintage gets better and better.
Bottle
£52.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 27cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Pierre describes 2011 as complicated, ironically as a result of the warm spring, which advanced the cycle so much that it set things out of kilter for the more normal temperatures at other times during the season. Nonetheless, he is satisfied with the results. He detects equilibrium, a ‘Golden Mean’ perhaps, which happily combines elegance and power, its higher acidity making these wines very food-friendly.
Bottle
£85.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 11cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Monsieur Sorrel compares 2011 to 2000 and advises that it has produced the highest crop since 2001. The modestly temperate and relatively lengthy growing season has produced wines of real clarity and definition, highlighting the personalities of the individual vineyards involved. He is especially proud of the wines from Crozes, for which he has hitherto been less famous.
Bottle
£95.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The loquacious Didier Negron recognises that Grenache was plentiful in 2011, unlike the coulure-blighted 2010, but that it had to be treated with care. The juxtaposition of an impressive early flowering and a cool but dry mid-season has engendered a heterogeneous crop, rather like 2007, but in a minor key. Didier’s clever manipulation of differing sizes of container in order to undermine the oxidative nature of Grenache, has ensured the purity and definition of his wines. He is proving a most worthy successor to the great Jean-Jacques Sabon, his father-in-law, who died last year.
Bottle
£140.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 6cs
James Molesworth - Wine Spectator, 15th November 2015
Case price (Bottle 6 x 75cl)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
These wines sit at the very pinnacle of perfection; year in year out they are applauded as the best in the Rhône Valley. They therefore need no further introductory superlatives from me, merely the tedious reminder that they are very scarce and, needless to say, very much in demand. We only have small volumes of the wines featured below, so I would encourage you to place any orders for these as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.
Bottle
£225.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 5cs
Magnum 3 x 150cl 2cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
For those who like to equate the style of a wine with the personality of the winemaker, the imposing and often outspoken Yves Gras would seem to be the ideal porte parole for the reputedly tannic and unforgiving wines of Gigondas. Needless to say such simplifications are facile; Yves turns out to be a thoughtful winemaker and the wines have a cerebral elegance… on second thoughts maybe the equation may not be too facile after all.
Fergus Stewart, Private Account Manager
The usual palette of grapes has been employed here, to a greater or lesser extent, with perhaps a little more Grenache than in 2010 and increased emphasis placed on some of the fashionable underlings such as Vaccerese and Counoise. Mourvèdre is important as always, making up over 30% and contributing savoury somewhat sauvage notes to complement the ripe black fruit core. The finish has a distinctly sweet feel to it this year, with an almost Burgundian elegance allied to a whisper of aniseed and eucalypt.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Ch. de Beaucastel’s 200 hectare estate is farmed organically, its other calling cards being the rather controversial vinification à chaud at the start of fermentation and the less contentious use of all 13 of the permitted grape varieties, albeit in somewhat differing volumes. Marc Perrin compares the 2011 with 2000; both were quick off the blocks and finished with an Indian flourish; both were somewhat lacklustre mid-season, which delayed or at least slowed down the growing cycle. Both, he concludes, have produced significantly above average wines. We see no reason to disagree with him.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 4cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Clape, Michel, Juge, Voge… There is a hypnotic monosyllabic magic to some of the great names of Cornas in days of yore and both Voge and Clape continue to fly the flag and do so with great aplomb. Fiercely traditional and yet disarmingly modern, these wines provide the key to the reputation of the Cornas that was and the outstanding quality of the Cornas that is now.
Laura Atkinson - Private Account Manager
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate #209 - Oct 2013
Bottle 3 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 3 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 3 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Pierre-Jean’s decade as the régisseur at les Vins de Vienne, taking daily control of winemaking as the eminences grises Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard supervised from a distance, has clearly rubbed off. His Seyssuel wine is outstanding and fantastically different from the Côte-Rôtie, underlining subtly differing terroir and the fact that the mighty Rhône separates the two enclaves.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The urbane René Rostaing has an aphoristic turn of phrase; he quotes Pliny the Younger for example, when reminding us that ‘le vin du Viennois a l’odour de violette’. He then throws in the enigmatic phrase, ‘le Viognier à Côte Rôtie est plus légende que réalité’: a subject for debate at the next Northern Rhône symposium perhaps? He can be somewhat unpredictable, eschewing new wood, yet using industrial-looking roto-fermentors. One thing is for sure; he is not too keen on the apparently facile division of Côte-Rôtie into mere Brune and Blonde; it is far more complex than that.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Located in the shadows of the spire of the village’s impressive church, Domaine Dumien-Serrette is unassuming and understated, unlike the wines of course, which glory in ripeness and fruit. Gilbert Serrette blends from barrique and larger vats, filled at this stage with the fruits that are distinguished only by whether or not their vines were located en coteau or en demi-coteau. He cites 2011 as an easier and less rustic vintage than 2010; the chronology and tempo of its evolution set in train by a rapid harvest on 14th and 15th September.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Les Vins de Vienne has almost out-grown their progenitors, in the sense that their négociant arm is now far more significant than that of Messrs Cuilleron, Villard and Gaillard. If the move from the precipitous and chaotic Seyssuel winery has taken a little romance from the project, the brilliant winemaking of Pascal Lombard has ensured an increase in quality and the forging of a distinct identity, important in what may once have been conceived as a somewhat amorphous project.